Travels
We travel(ed) a lot...
Before Covid-19, we traveled non-stop. We spent 250+ hotel nights & something north of 1,000 meals out every year. While we travel far less now, we still make notes of our favorites, and we'd love to share them with you.
While this list is by no means exhaustive, it's simply what we've enjoyed, and we hope you do, too.
Most are obscure, some are well-known; but rest assured that they all hit the spot.
If you happen to be traveling through, be forewarned, you might bump into us at one of these joints...
(You can either search the map by location pins, or check the dropdown list by city or country.)
It's a big big world, y'all
OAHU
EAT:
Mitch’s Sushi Get everything on the menu. BYOB!! Also a great stop before your flight home as it’s literally next to the airport.
Sushi Ginza Onadera- Reserve ahead, ask for the sushi bar. Put yourselves in their hands, sit back and let the exquisite seafood and excellent sake list wash over you.
Ginza Bairin- Open since 1927, this is your tonkatsu place. Watch the chefs expertly fry that heavenly dish, order creamy, freezing cold beer and dig in.
Shingen- Quiet, relaxed atmosphere serving insanely beautiful house-made soba. Order a few items from the oden menu, order the cold sesame noodles, order everything. It’s all great.
Mac 247- When nothing else is open late-night, this is your place: 24-7 comfort food.
ARS Cafe- The best coffee shop in Honolulu.
TBD- Located near Diamondhead in the Lotus Hotel, an off-the-Waikiki-strip option with a menu spanning French, Indian, Hawaiian, etc. Don’t get weirded out by that description, get excited.
Han Yang- Located in an industrial strip mall, this is the place for great Korean BBQ. Get the Yakiniku Buffet and BYOB.
Leonard’s Bakery- Old school bakery (est. 1952) serving Portuguese malasadas: custard-filled hole-less doughnuts. Order the Haupia (coconut) malasadas along with a pumpkin pie and make your friends and family happy when you arrive with that Leonard’s branded box.
Miro Kaimuki- Take a drive to Kaimuki for this French-inspired menu alongside a lovely wine list, served by a fantastic group of people who are passionate about what they’re sharing with you. Lovely!
Sushi ii- We were in an Uber heading to the Ritz’s fancy sushi joint, and our driver suggested we also check out Sushi ii. Turns out we like this strip mall hole in the wall joint better, and ended up there many nights, sampling a daily-changing menu of some of the most exciting fish on the island.
PLAY:
La Mariana Sailing Club Also Oahu’s first Tiki Bar, this joint is rich in old-school Hawaiiana. Hit a drink here before heading to Mitch’s.
SEATTLE
EAT:
The Walrus & The Carpenter Killer oysters, super fun.
The Corson Building Out of the way in South Seattle- really special, as are all of their restaurants.
Inn at the Market This place is perched on a hill overlooking the Pike Street Market, in walking distance to all great snacks.
Cafe Campagne Located beneath the Inn at the Market, this is the best Parisian bistro we’ve found outside Paris.
Taylor Shellfish If you’re looking for great West Coast oysters, this is your spot.
SAN FRANCISCO
EAT:
Swan’s Oyster Depot Coolest restaurant in America. 100+ years old. Cash only. They open at 10:30am; get there early & drink muscadet with your breakfast. Seriously.
Colibri Just off the plane & starving? Guac, fresh tortillas, a shot of Sombra & a beer.
Izakaya Rintaro If you live in SF, you know; if not: now you do. Excellent.
Absinthe Brasserie Great bar, great wine list, & bangin' weekday specials. Hit it up for lunch & drip into dusk.
Zuni Cafe- It’s a classic for a reason. Don’t fall prey to ‘the new.’ Go here and slip into a timeless little afternoon with multiple courses, please.
Pizzeria Delfina- Also an oldie but a goodie. It’s very good!!!
LOS ANGELES
EAT:
Mori Sushi Make an early res, eat some of the most beautiful food of your life, get on a red-eye home. Win.
Fishing With Dynamite The best raw bar recipe: beautiful ocean light, fresh catch, great music & a sense of humor. Manhattan Beach.
Cora's Coffee Shop You can get tortilla soup for breakfast, and it's on the beach. Done & done. Santa Monica.
Capo Great cooking, great wine list, yummy deals to be found. Expensive? Yes. Delicious? Yup. Santa Monica.
Sushi Sasabune- Head here for lunch and trust them.
Angelini Osteria- You could easily be in Italy when you dine here. Same vibe, same great food. Classic as can be.
Sushi Tama- I ate here 3 times in 4 days. Order all of the shiny fish. Sit inside and chill or sit outside and watch Beverly Hills roll by. The fish is exquisite, the staff is casual but knowledgeable; it’s lovely. BUT THE FISH.
LAS VEGAS
EAT:
Lamaii Bank Atchawaran's new Thai spot. Trust everything he does from food to wine and you will thrive.
Lotus of Siam Yes, another Thai spot, and yes, worth it. Ask for the wine list.
Estiatorio Milos This place does the ocean right. It is a respectful bow to the riches of the ocean: how to let the fresh ingredients be, how not to fuck it up, how to serve sherry in the shrimp head. Nirvana.
STAY:
Cosmopolitan Vegas can hurt, but this place changes that stereotype. The rooms are sexy, the casino ain’t dodgy, and there’s great food: Milos (see below), Eggslut, Momofuku, Hattie’s B’s Hot Chicken…. But the best secret is the 3rd floor pizza joint that’s not listed. Don’t ever leave the hotel: see music here (we saw The Cure!), party here, eat pizza. Vegas is workable, trust us.
PHOENIX
EAT:
Pizzeria Bianco One of the OG Neopolitan pie joints in the US. Quaint and yummy.
PLAY:
Jerome Hit up this old mining town while driving from Phoenix to Prescott; old US history in tact.
MARFA
PLAY:
Donald Judd/ The Chinati Foundation Go look at what’s in the artillery sheds: one of the most moving art experiences in the world. Sh*t is bananas.
TEQUILA
STAY:
Hotel Solar de las Animas- This is the place to stay in Tequila if you want to feel like a movie star. There’s a rooftop pool, a lovely restaurant downstairs with an indoor fountain in the middle, and massive rooms where you feel like you’re on the set of Like Water for Chocolate. Yes, please.
PLAY:
Cantaritos el Guero- Outdoor bar on the side of the road mixing up the breakfast you’ll need when leaving Tequila to head to back to the airport.
La Capilla- One of the great bars on earth: not fancy, all soul. The signature drink (Batanga) is stirred with a steak knife.
MIAMI
EAT:
Japanese Market In a strip mall lives a Japanese Market . In the Market lives a tiny sushi bar in the corner. Walk to the back, grab a 16oz Sapporo, & wait til your name is called.
Mandolin Aegean Bistro Sit on the patio, eat with your hands, suck the bones.
Palmar- They call themselves a ‘moderne Chinese restaurant with a tropical vibe.’ Yes, please. Not to mention a rockin’ Champagne selection.
STAY:
SLS South Beach Eat on the patio, order the Embutido de Iberico & gazpacho for breakfast, along with a glass of Manzanilla.
PLAY:
Double Threat Fishing Charters Really cool, very capable kids with great equipment and moxie for days. #nofishissafe
Locust Projects The nexus of great young art in Miami.
NASHVILLE
EAT:
Robert’s Western World Sit at the bar, near the grill. Fried bologna sandwich, chips, American beer.
The Catbird Seat This is one of the spots that everyone knows about. There’s a reason. Bribe whomever necessary to get in.
Rolf & Daughters If you can’t get into Catbird, come here and console yourself with their on-point pastas.
STAY:
Union Station Hotel Nashville’s version of Grand Central as a hotel, along with day passes to an awesome gym. IT MATTERS. Genius.
CHARLESTON
EAT:
Leon’s Oysters, $2 Miller High Life Ponies and a good people-watching scene. Sit outside.
Xiao Bao When you’ve had your fill of pimento cheese and brown booze, come soak it all up with some beer and spice.
Go Fishing! Charter a local boat, grab a 12-pack and go fishing in the estuaries for red drum. A perfect Southern afternoon.
PHILADELPHIA
EAT:
Zahav Excellent Israeli food in a bustling, warm environs.
Vetri Date-night cute, fantastic service and food that makes you feel like you’re being deeply nourished.
Rooster Soup Co. 100% of profits go to support Philadelphia’s vulnerable citizens. The concept was dreamt up by Broad Street Ministry, who is doing some of the most admirable hospitality work on the planet: feeding those who need it most, and doing it with three course meals, warm service and great food: not soup kitchen simplicity. Rooster Soup Co. is everything you want out of a great diner, from a heart of pure gold.
PLAY:
Barnes Foundation Get out! Learn some things! Stroll through others’ ideas!
NEW YORK
EAT:
Hi-Collar This Place. Japanese cool writ over 1,000,000 times: tea during the day, sake at night, and perfect fried chicken sandwiches.
Joe Junior There aren’t many great diners left in NYC. Those gentrifying assholes are raising rents and putting in juice stores, which means our favorite Greek diners are getting the squeeze. Joe Junior hasn’t given in yet, and we are grateful for it. So much heart.
King A couple of women making excellent food with a wink towards Tuscany, a petite wine list, sun-flooded room, and lovely service. A reprieve when NYC threatens to eat your quiet.
Via Carota We love love love this place; the atmosphere is chic NYC bistro with shout-outs to Euro sensibilities, and the food is way better than you’d expect from a place so aware of how it looks.
Ilili Order Musar Blanc & ask for extra harissa.
Somtum Der You like spice and uber-umami?
Maison Premiere (BK) Champagne, oysters, and the best daiquiri in town.
Pasquale Jones- One of our favorite restaurants on planet earth. Spectacular pizza, thoughtful, complex salads alongside a great wine list and a crackin’ soundtrack.
Fausto- (BK) Joe Campanale’s spot, which means hospitality in spades, a thoughtful Italian list and great food.
Roberta’s- (BK) Yeah, you know about it already. It’s famous for a reason. Sometimes too cool for school on the service side, but you go for the food. Great pizza and really spectacular salads.
Buttermilk Channel- (BK) I hate brunch. But these guys do what can be a tiresome slog of soggy biscuits and hungover twenty-somethings really well. They also make good food the rest of the week! Good people here.
ABC Cocina- Not under the radar, not new. And yet we go here every time we’re in town. Really good margaritas, awesome hot sauce, and consistently yummy food.
Soho Diner- This place is fun af. It’s like an updated Peach Pit with truly good diner food. I’m not kidding. You’re welcome!
Ping’s- Hong Kong fare, which means a fantastic array of very exciting flavors, as well as some of the nicest service I’ve had in New York’s Chinatown.
Il Buco Alimentari- One of our favorite lunch spots in New York. Super fun wine list, excellent menu, great ambience and excellent service. A perfect spot to while away a wine-soaked lunch with friends.
Anton’s- Run, don’t walk! We hit up Anton’s every time we are in New York, oftentimes twice within a few days. The service is some of the sweetest in New York, the food is excellent (spaghetti anchoiade!), and there is plenty of delicious wine to drink. Great for lunch and dinner. Order an icebox martini and settle in.
Saigon Social - Vietnamese food from a classically French trained chef. Get one of everything on the menu.
Fini Pizza (BK) - Really good pizza in a stylish slice-lookin’ shop. Thin, crispy, classic NY pizza. The white is the choice.
Koloman - Located in the old Breslin space in the Ace Hotel, here we have delicately executed top tier Austrian food. Better than any I’ve had in Austria, to be honest. It’s fine food in a non-fine food room, which it turns out is a fabulous match. Have fun, laugh, be loud, eat like a queen.
Mountain House- Very good Szechuanese Cuisine on St. Marks. Unassuming, quiet, dark and quiet inside, very delicious.
Corner Bar- Located in the Nine Orchard Hotel, Corner Bar is a sexy space with a bunch of stylish money behind it. Great for high end snacks, a great burger (usually not listed on the menu, ask for it), and a chill moment away from the city.
STAY:
Ludlow Hotel Stay in a Skybox!
The Bowery Hotel - An oldie but a goodie, The Bowery still retains its very New York cool with a sexy lobby and low-key rooms with good views. Stay here for the service and the location.
PLAY:
Japan Premium Beef Pork chops and bacon WHAT. Butchery as beauty.(We bring it home in our carry-ons.)
New York Beach Ferry Explore the magic of NYC in summer, when water taxis are the jam, & the beach is only a beautiful boat ride away. BYOB
Attaboy In the OG Milk & Honey space; our favorite bar in NYC.
Dirty Precious (BK) First of all, it’s without a doubt the best name ever. Second, it’s owned by a firecracker of a woman, Katipai, who you’d be lucky to have tend the bar you’re sitting at. Third, great space, great selection of booze, sherry (!) and plenty of know-how without any star-tender drama.
169 Bar Looking for a great dive?
Central Park Lake: Row Boats! Picnic here. BYOB and BYOSunscreen.
BOSTON
EAT:
Neptune Oyster Worth the wait. Get everything on the menu.
Island Creek Oyster Bar Fresh-as-can-be oysters expertly shucked. Of course there’s other delicious East Coast treats (chowder, lobster rolls, etc) too, but those oysters… And a fun little list to boot.
Charlie’s Sandwich Shoppe Open since 1927, making diner-lovers swoon for the packed walls, the service and any and all kind of appropriate diner food you can dream up.
PLAY:
New England Aquarium Have a bottle and a dozen, stroll down to the piers if the weather is good, and enjoy what the majority of your planet actually looks like.
DETROIT
EAT:
Takoi Yup, went here twice in two days. Sometimes when you’re on the road, all you want is spicy Asian food to set you right, and this place answered our SOS calls.
STAY:
Foundation Hotel Housed in an old fire station, the rooms are lovely, the restaurant and bar scene downstairs are exactly what you want from a young hotel, and the people of Detroit are here to show you that Detroit is back, y’all.
PLAY:
MOCAD Head here for old-school ideas about art (they are great.)
Heidelberg Project Head here for new-school ideas about art (maybe even better.) This neighborhood was run down, gutted, dangerous. It was brought back from the brink with the creation of an outdoor museum, the Heidelberg Project. It made people see that they could take back something that felt broken and heal it, elevate it, make something beautiful out of it. It’s wonderful.
CHICAGO
EAT:
Spacca Napoli Pizzeria A little outside the city center, & very worth it. One of the best Italian restaurants in the country.
MFK Restaurant Sombra margaritas. Head-on prawns. Half of the restaurant is bar seating. Everything about this place feels right.
Cherry Circle Room Head here for old school luxury; wood paneled everything and a packed wine list.
Doves Luncheonette Diner alert!! Great diner alert!! (And great selection of agave spirits.)
STAY:
James Hotel They have a GREAT gym. In the world of lots of travel, you pledge allegiance to a place like this.
Virgin Hotel You know the brand, and you either love it or hate it. Personally, I care more about a great hotel room, and this place has it. Stylish; feels more like a fun sleepover than a work trip.
PLAY:
Public Barber Chic, dialed-in barber shop for that just so fade you’re lookin’ for.
COPENHAGEN
EAT:
Atelier September- You’re already visiting an expensive city; give in to it and order the very expensive, lovely avocado toast and green tea and sigh a great big yummy bougie sigh.
Manfred’s Cafe- They harvest from their own garden and the vegetables are beautiful. They’ve also got a killer steak tartare and a superfun natty wine list. Great for lunch!
Sankt Peder- The best option for smorrobrod, beer and saucy service. This place is our favorite. And no, there is no set menu or natty wine, so don’t even ask.
Barr- Located in the old Noma space (read: on the water and lovely), head here for the best schnitzel presentation ever and some very delicious local beer.
Kanalen- Excellent location on the canals, lovely food and a great wine list.
Anarki- Bistro style menu with a wine list peppered with gems.
STAY:
Nobis Hotel- Well appointed, quiet, extremely civil.
PLAY:
GoBoat- Rent a boat, pack a picnic and GO!
AMSTERDAM
EAT:
Rijsel This is our jam. The ideal wine dinner: roast chicken, greens and fried potatoes alongside a super well-priced, well-stocked list and great service.
Gebr. Hartering- On one of the most idyllic, picturesque canal corners in town, the Brothers Hartering offer an ever-changing, fantastic set menu with a killer wine list.
Proeflokaal Kef - Take the Buiksloterweg ferry from Station Centraal to Noord (free 2.5 minute trip) and ride or walk here for a bang-up selection of cheese and a few beers and wines to pair with it.
Cafe Moderne Take the Buiksloterweg ferry fromStation Centraal to Noord and ride or walk here for a great lunch (there aren’ many great lunch spots in Amsterdam) or for a romantic diner. Great food and natural wine.
Bar Pif- Super chill natural wine bar with tasty snacks. Open for lunch. Their sister spot, Alex & Pinard, is also great.
The Lobby Fizeaustraat- Slightly out of town, totally worth the Uber or bike jaunt. The food is great and the wine list will reward your travel.
Sichuan Food- They've been open for 34 years, run by the same family. Best Peking Duck menu we know of. Tell Raymond we sent you.
Si-Chuan Chinese- Yes, there are two of these on our list, no, they are not related. Our favorite Chinese food outside of Singapore.
Zoldering- One of the best wine lists in town alongside a fantastic a la carte menu. Highly recommended.
Cafe Parlotte- Also one of the best wine lists in town. Located in the Jordaan, go when it’s warmer and sit outside. Excellent food.
Bambino- Sister to Bak (also on our list), a casual lunch spot with lots of good natural wine and delicious food. Open for lunch.
Sagardi- When Spain can’t come to you, go here for excellent Basque food. Open for lunch.
Bussia- Great for lunch. A quiet little cafe with good food and great bakery items, all done in house.
101 Gowrie- Very chic, higher-end ambiance and a fantastic menu with a fresh take on Japanese cuisine through an international eye. Sounds weird. It’s excellent.
Beulings- There are so many set menus in Amsterdam, but this place actually pulls it off well. Stylish af room, great service, compelling menu and a little shocker of a wine list.
Sinck - Very good food, a great wine list, and when it’s warm out, one of the best canal cafes. And Komos!
Toscanini- Classy little cafe with proper Italian food (their spring vegetables are great) and a wine list with some fun nuggets if you take a moment to flip through.
De Kas- Slightly further out of town, a great place to spend a languid afternoon in the greenhouse-feeling space with a veggie-heavy set menu and plenty of Cotat.
BAK- Located in a seemingly non-descript industrial building, head upstairs to find yourself overlooking the river IJ. There is no beef, pork or chicken served, although you may find pigeon or deer, as they only use wild meats. Other than a course of meat, all else is vegetable-focused. Great Champagne options as well as natural wines.
Cafe de Dokter- Founded in 1798 and run by the same family for 6 generations. Sure, they have beer, they also have a fun selection of whiskies and a large hunk of cheese and house made smoked ox sausage. The smallest bruin cafe in town, literally dripping in cobwebs and lore.
De Wildeman- If you’ a beer-head, this is your spot. Ever-changing taps as well as a list of ~250 bottled beers. This crew knows their beer; they have decanting baskets for their sour beers. Get schooled here.
Arendsnest beer service here is on point; they also pair meats & cheeses with all their beers. Ask for advice & let them show you the goods.
Cafe Gollem selection of local beers on tap with a few locations around town.
Black Gold- Great coffee on the West side of town.
Toki- Great coffee on the East side of town.
H. Murray’s- A sneaky, stylish, low-key wonderful corner bar in the oldest part of Amsterdam owned by twin brothers. The vibe is top-notch and so is the location.
STAY:
Hotel Pulitzer- Consisting of 25 connecting canal houses: great rooms, super chic, excellent (public!) central gardens and comfy cocktail bar when the cool months have you reaching for boozy comfort.
The Lobby at Hotel V on Nes- The hotel rooms are great, and the restaurant is another one of our favorite lunch spots. Plush interiors, yummy food and a welcoming staff has made us regulars. The sister restaurant at Fizeaustraat has a more formal menu and a deeper wine list. Both are great.
Soho House- If you’ a member, great! Otherwise make friends with one and hit the best view of the city possible, poolside, with a cocktail.
PLAY:
Sloepdelen Zipcar of canal boats. How they allow someone to anonymously ‘’ a boat, pick it up, & drive themselves around in a city with a very lenient consumption policy is mind-blowing. Take advantage before they realize this & shut it down.
Admiraal Heijn- We’ booked the Admiraal Heijn boat countless times; it’ private, you have your own skipper, and you can navigate where you want to go. And of course bring whatever beverages and snacks you like. Tell Judy Carla sent you.
Sauna Deco place is decked out in the salvaged Art Deco pieces of the old Au Bon Marche, & you get to walk around naked. What else is there to say?
Cafe de Wetering - One of the best bars in town. Chill, away from the red light and all that mess, and with a huge fireplace in winter. Bring some cards and settle in.
Cafe t’Mandje- Opened in 1927 by a lesbian named Aunt Bet, Cafe t’ is our go-to queer bar with super positive, cuddly, beer-loving vibes.
Bar Exit- Our favorite LGBTQ dance club; dive-bar-feeling, open late, welcoming to everyone… we’ see you there. Their sister spot next door, Nyx, leans more towards a clubby feel if you’ not feelin’ the chill dive vibe.
Soho House- If you’ a member, great! Otherwise make friends with one and hit the best view of the city possible, poolside, with a cocktail.
A’dam Tower- Head over to Noord on the super-quick free ferry and visit the Lookout on top floors of the A’ building. The view over Amsterdam is amazing, and you can ride swings that fling you over the edge of the building.
W Hotel W Lounge- If you don’ feel like taking a ferry, take an elevator to the top floor of the W Hotel and view Amsterdam from there.
I AMsterdam- Want to move here? Not sure when trash pick-up is? Wondering what is going on in town today? It's all there.
PARIS
EAT:
Le Petit Verdot Japanese sensibilities meet French cuisine; great wine list.
Clamato Septime’s little brother, and by far the superior child. Fried whole fish & Champagne.
Le Dome Go for the bouillabaisse & learn a thing or two about fish service.
Le Repaire des Cartouche Dark, cozy, soulful French cooking.
Bistrot Paul Bert Best bistro in the world, hands down. Patina, great food, super fun wine list.
L’Ecailler du Bistrot Paul Bert’s next door seafood joint, ask for the Paul Bert wine list.
Le Baratin Great.
Le Dauphin- Rem Kolhaas-designed bar with delicious food and achingly cool vibe.
L’Ami Louis- Like an old school French bistro with the prices and flavors turned up to 11. Extremely curt service, but GREAT classic French cuisine, à la frogs legs and escargots.
L’Ambroisie- You will pay for it, and you will love it. Exquisite everything. But not silly prix fixe super touched food; this is the best restaurant and the best service in Paris in our opinion. Get anything with truffles. Richard literally cried with joy when we ate here. Exceptional.
Vantre- Amazing wine list being taken care of by an excellent wine team with real passion for what they do. What a treat! Very good food as well.
Les Arlots- Unpretentious service, a wine card packed with things to discover, and seriously outstanding food. Have a glass at their next door Billili before or after.
La Cagouille- It can be hard to find a good place to eat on Sunday in Paris. Good thing la Cagouille keeps its doors open so you can bathe in their beautiful seafood items. Best in summer, when you can sit outside, but no less delicious in winter.
Kodawari Tsukiji - Outstanding ramen theater. All fish-based broth; exceptional flavors in a super-fun recreation of Japan’s famous Tsukiji Fish Market.
Enyaa - Refined Japanese food with a fabulous Sake and Champagne list.
Nodaiwa - The grilled freshwater eel is the star here, with a recipe that’s been in the family for 5 generations. Served in a peaceful, relaxed atmosphere, this is a perfect lunch spot.
Shang Palace at the Shangri La. Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant with excellent service, food, wine list and room. Old school romance.
Arpege - 3 Michelin-starred vegetable-forward fine dining. Full stop. Delicate, delicious, fun, highly recommended.
Le Servan- What a lovely treat this place is! Superfun flavors, beautiful vegetables, a light-filled room when the doors are thrown open, and good wine to boot.
STAY:
Relais Saint Germain Sexy rooms hovering over a great bistro & fantastic wine and snack bar.
Hotel Bourg Tibourg- Super cute hotel tucked into a side street, lovely staff and romantic, tiny little Parisian boudoir-style rooms.
Hotel Costes - Sister to the cute and quiet Hotel Bourg Tibourg in the Marais, Hotel Costes is the sleek sibling with a bustling restaurant and ultra sexy rooms.
PLAY:
Candelaria In case you need your agave fix in Paris.
BASQUE COUNTRY
EAT:
Asador Etxebarri You have no idea. The mountain view, the smoke, the simple, perfect food… worth the country drive to the middle of nowhere.
Elkano Love letter to turbot. In spring the anchovy are chased into the bay by the turbot, then the turbot taste like anchovy. There is the sun-side, and the sand-side, and they both taste very different… You will learn A TON. SP
MANTUA
EAT:
Dal Pascatore- Tucked in to the countryside among animals and grasses lies this Michelin 3-star joint. Excellent everything.
HONG KONG
EAT:
Hong Kong Old Restaurant The smoked chicken (must order a few days ahead) will be one of the best things you’ve ever eaten. Shanghai Cuisine.
Luk Yu Tea House If Hong Kong had a mafia (& they may), this would be their hangout. Don’t let the lovely Art Deco facade fool you. And don’t let those punky waiters get in your grill. The world is yours. Dim Sum.
LockCha Tea House Located in Hong Kong Park, this is the coolest place ever to learn about tea… Great selection of teas as well as food made to go with them.
Spring Deer Restaurant The best Peking Duck of your life. BYOB
STAY:
Intercontinental On the Kowloon side, overlooking the entire HK harbor. Exceptional service.
BAROSSA
EAT:
FermentAsian She cooks SE Asian cuisine, he runs the room & a super dope wine list. Fantastic.
Fino Go here for lunch, eat very well & drink lots of sherry. Then visit Seppeltsfield (see below.)
Apex Bakery Longest running (c.1924) continuously fired oven in OZ. Pasties!!
Casa Carboni- We can’t recommend this place highly enough. Open most mornings and days, with a Friday night dinner option available. Book the Friday dinner. Ask Matteo (husband and Chef) what to drink, as he imports the wines he carries, and tell both he and Fiona (wife, hostess) that we sent you. LOVE.
PLAY:
Tanunda Hotel The TH. Best Cooper’s Pale you’ll ever have. Order a bag of Salt & Vinegar crisps & play pool.
Seppeltsfield Winery With port from every vintage going back to 1878, prepare to be impressed.
TUCSON
EAT:
Mariscos Chihuahua Best Mexican food in Tucson, maybe Arizona. It’s all about the seafood cocktails & LOTS of hot sauce.
The Little One Open for breakfast and lunch, bustling little cafe where the owner insists on a hug before you go. It’s heart-healthy livin’ here.
El Charo All about the carne seca.
STAY:
Hotel Congress What The Chelsea must’ve been like before it wasn’t itself anymore.
Arizona Inn Extreme old Hollywood glamor still alive at this place. The pool and the croquet lawns, the ping pong and the afternoon tea… it’s a slice of a simpler time.
PLAY:
Sonoran Desert Museum Cooler than you could possibly imagine.
TULUM
EAT:
Ka’an- Drive South past the Tulum scrum to reach this haven in the middle of a nature preserve: silent but for waves, exceptional food, and your feet in the sand. Perfect.
Kitchen Table- Drive North away from Tulum, and reach the archeological preserve, where you sit outdoors in the most unique restaurant layout imaginable, enjoying absolutely fantastic food. We went twice in 24 hours.
MEXICO CITY
EAT:
Contramar- The Balthazar of the DF; the place to be seen. The room is hoppin’, the crowd is flush, and the food is bangin’. Make a reservation.
Pujol- First: make a reservation. It’s high end, it’s a set menu, and while we generally won’t recommend those, this place blew us away.. The final dish was a dollop of new mole set on top of a dollop of aged mole (somewhere in the 1,000’s of days when we were there). It made us silent. It arrested us. We adore this place. (The chef, Enrique Olvera, also has Eno for those of you wanting something more chill: breakfast, casual lunch, tamales.)
Yakumanka Insanely good Peruvian food- we went there twice in 24 hours. EXCELLENT seafood.
Pizza Felix When you’re tired of tacos head here. Super chill, yummy, and open Sunday nights (not many things are.)
STAY:
Hotel Condesa DF- One of our favorite hotel experiences: centrally located yet peaceful, stylish rooms… you feel your ‘city shoulders’ relax when you walk in the door after having been out all day.
PLAY:
QI Wellness Center & Gym- The gym you wish you could carry with you when you travel (and you get free passes when you stay at the Hotel Condesa.)
OAXACA
EAT:
Marco Polo Awesome hidden patio, oven-baked seafood. Micheladas.
Itanoni A love letter to corn.
Casa Oaxaca You want the one within the hotel (see below.) It is GREAT.
Pitiona- Lovely food, wonderful quiet, peaceful indoor patio, nice mezcal service.
Criollo Enrique Olvera, the same chef as Pujol in DF and Cosme in NYC, creates a chic dining space with thoughtful food.
STAY:
Casa Oaxaca You may decide to travel to Oaxaca just to stay here. Pool, silence, micheladas, fantastic service.
BORDEAUX
EAT:
La Tupina As you walk in, there are potatoes being roasted over an open fire, which is connected to a system of pulleys, fuelling the spit which is roasting birds… It’s great.
L’Univerre You’re welcome.
STAY:
Maison Fredon After lunch at La Tupina, retire to their insanely chic rooms across the street.
DALLAS
EAT:
Tei-An Dallas is big & broad. Tei-An is the opposite. Ask them to pair Japanese whisky with your food.
Sachet- Go here! Really delicious food with Lebanese hints and a wine list that is made for the food. Great.
STAY:
Hotel Zaza These are sprinkled throughout Texas, and while they are kinda tacky and bridal party trashy, the Dallas location as a great gym and the bungalows are like having your own apartment.
AUSTIN
EAT:
Olamaie We can’t speak highly enough of this place; the team and the food are exceptional, and it feels like home every time we return.
STAY:
Hotel San Jose One of the most stylish hotels in the country.
PLAY:
Half Step If you find the food trucks & want a cocktail nearby, this is the place.
Midnight Cowboy NYC cocktail-stylee.
HOUSTON
EAT:
Mala Sichuan Bistro One of the best Chinese restaurants in the country, in our opinion. BYOB
PLAY:
West Alabama Ice House Get a buzz on here...
Cy Twombly Gallery at The Menil Collection ...then visit here.
BOLOGNA
EAT:
Osteria la Traviata- This place is exactly what you want in an Italian bistro: kids running around, family in and out of the kitchen, excellent tortellini in brodo and whatever red they’re serving by the carafe.
LIGURIA
EAT:
Locanda Conchiglia d’Oro- When you’re driving from Piedmont to France or Spain, stop here. Or make a side-trip like we do to visit this place: it’s that good.
FLORENCE
EAT:
PLAY:
ROME
EAT:
Costanza Hostaria Hidden down a few side streets, all about the fish and veg.
La Campana Rome’s oldest restaurant (c.1518) Very staid, very delicious.
Forno Campo de Fiori- Roman pizza: long, crispy pies with the most glorious tomato sauce you’ve ever had… for breakfast, snacks, lunch and dinner. Get the Marinara. Then cruise the farmer’s market in the Plaza- complete Roman heaven.
STAY:
Hotel Locarno Art Deco masterpiece, great patio, away from the noise & bustle.
PLAY:
Sant’Eustachio Get a shakerato, feel like you’re in a movie.
ADELAIDE
EAT:
Peel St. Restaurant- Always reliable, easy and friggin’ yummy. Hit it up.
Chianti- I’m not gonna lie; sometimes after weeks of harvest, you want a white tablecloth, Italian wine and some fiori di zucca, and the welcoming service makes it real easy to slip into a long, relaxing lunch.
Golden Boy- When you’re ready for something other than pasties, Cooper’s Pale and BBQ, hit this place up for some spicy Thai.
Parwana Afghan Kitchen- Please go here! What heart! What warm, welcoming, fun energy with super satisfying food. Wish there were more restaurants with this vibe.
Summertown Aristologist- Located in Adelaide Hills, we go here weekly while in the Barossa for harvest. Excellent, nuanced food with a subtle Japanese touch. Very good. Some natty wine, too.
STAY:
The Franklin Hotel Huge rooms, great style, super affordable.
PLAY:
Clever Little Tailor Many choices on Peel St, we suggest this one.
MCLAREN VALE
EAT:
Salopian Inn- Come for the vineyards, check out the ocean, and eat here. Delicious food in an unassuming little spot, great for a break from wine tasting and hot sun.
SYDNEY
EAT:
Otto Ristorante Campari & Soda. Bottle of Vermentino. Whole fish. Sit on the pier outside, bask.
Golden Century There are tanks lining the walls with mud crabs bigger than small children, & a wine list filled with back vintages of Barossa Shiraz & Bordeaux. Makes sense.
One Penny Red- One of our favorite spots in Sydney; quiet neighborhood, excellent food, warm service and a crackin’ local wine list.
Chat Thai- When you get off the plane and your world is upside down, head here for cold beer, spicy food and a healthy dose of funky fish-sauce based food. Medicine.
Mary’s- Burgers and chickens, natural wine, heavy metal.
Love Tilly Devine- Super lovely wine bar, down a little alley, yummy small plates, cute as hell.
Lord Nelson Brewery & Hotel- Home of Australia’s oldest pub brewery, great beer, crisps, hotel rooms and happiness.
Saint Peter- If you love fish, go here. Really special food with caring service.
Yellow- Vegetarian and interesting. Casual, energized atmosphere and a fun little wine list.
STAY:
Ovolo at Woolloomooloo- Our favorite place to stay in Sydney, hands down. Great rooms overlooking Woolloomooloo wharf and the Botanical Gardens, right above Otto.
Establishment Hotel- If you'd like to stay somewhere in the CBD, we like it here. Super cool vibe, quiet rooms, great breakfast and bar space.
PLAY:
Take the Manly Fast Ferry to Bondi to enjoy a lunch at Icebergs, a massage overlooking the wild salt pool (with Bondi waves crashing in), and a break from the city.
MELBOURNE
EAT:
Tipo OO- Charming little spot with fresh, light Italian food and a fun wine list.
Cumulus Up- We prefer the wine bar above their sister spot Cumulus. Great menu, very good wine list and a chic vibe.
Butcher’s Diner- Open 24 hours. Great burgers. Half bottles of Champagne. Done.
Bar Liberty- This place has an incredibly fun beverage list and outstanding food. Can’t recommend it highly enough.
*Coffee*
Patricia- The most complete service operation we’ve ever seen. From the moment you enter til you exit, it’s a flawless movement of hospitality, efficiency and the best coffee we’ve ever had.
STAY:
QT Hotel- Our go-to for a stylish hotel with quiet rooms in the center of the CBD. Walking distance to pretty much anywhere you’d want to eat, drink and explore.
SAN SEBASTIÁN
EAT:
Ibai Still have yet to go…
Saltxipi Get the spider crab & roll up your sleeves; every single part of the crab is divine.
Rekondo That wine list tho.
Ganbara Mushrooms upon mushrooms.
The Loaf Your best bet at getting a decent coffee in all of Spain. Gros district.
Borda Berri - For hot pintxos- Their salmorejo and beef cheeks were fantastic, and a nice break from typical pintxos on bread.
Ganbara - While this is a pintxo bar, request to sit downstairs, where you’ll receive a more thorough menu with lovely service, and a chill moment among all the pintxo madness back upstairs.
La Viña - Go for dessert: Basque cheesecake. Excellent.
Gandarias - One of the great classics, with all of the great sherries by the glass.
BARCELONA
EAT:
Bar Cañete We’d eat here every single day if we could.
La Boqueria Sure, you can walk the market, but the real deal are the restaurants inside the market. Bustling, fresh, delicious.
Cal Pep- You’ve probably heard of it. Gotta queue up early, they can be a salty bunch, it’s a show, etc. But it’s also really good, and probably what Barrafina in London is based on, and we absolutely love it.
Estimar- If you like fish and don’t mind spending for it, this place is very worth it. Everything is so very beautiful.
Casa Mari i Rufo- This is not so terribly different from many other places in Barcelona, but with a few less tourists, and truly great food. Sit up at the bar and take in the fracas.
Bar Brutal - Extremely lively, super fun, great food: this is what I want out of a natural wine bar. Love this place. Their sister restaurant Xemei, serving Venetian food, is a lovely place to spend an outdoor afternoon lunch over multiple vermuts.
Ca’l Isidre - You know we love fine dining when it’s got some age on it (opened in 1970), when it’s not precious, and when you feel as relaxed in the dining room as if in a bistro, but it also kinda feels a little reverential in the sweetest way. We came to tears here over the service, the absolute care from the team, and the simple deliciousness of the food. Catalan cuisine.
Ultramarinos Marin - This is one of the sexiest little spots we’ve been to in a long time. Opened recently, but with deeply chic taste, it feels like a bustling diner in front, and in back, a dark and cozy room with an open grill and wood burning oven. All of this and they only serve breakfast and lunch! But this ain’t a brunch joint (thank heavens), this is a seriously delicious but casual spot that feels like they’ve hit the lottery on all fronts.
La Cova Fumada - Opened in 1944, and feels like time has forgotten about this place. It’s perfect. Crowded, as casual as can be, inexpensive, fast, super delicious, perfect. Catalan cuisine.
PLAY:
Vila Viniteca - The website makes it look like only a wine shop, don’t be fooled. This is one of the most impressive collections of tinned and preserved products. all of the highest quality. Awesome array of jamon and all of the Spanish cheese you could hope for. Stock up here en route home, or just move to Barcelona to shop here.
MADRID
EAT:
La Dolores Best Mahou on tap in Spain alongside the best anchovy snack in the world. No music overhead; just the clinking of glasses, laughter, & that beer...
La Venencia Old-school, 1930’s-style bar with nothin’ but a few Sherries, a few tapas, a very friendly cat, & all the soul you could hope for. Do not tip (seriously.)
La Posada de la Villa Since 1642, & you believe it when you walk in. The spirit of the place lives in the service, the food, & a great Spanish wine list. Order the Pimientos del Piquillo & fall in love with simplicity.
O'Pazo One of the great fish joints on the planet. We went for lunch & immediately thereafter asked for a reservation for dinner that night.
Taberna Palo Cortado- If you feel like you’re swimming in a sea of Rioja in Madrid, this is your Sherry life raft. Great list with the food you want to go with it.
Taberna Laredo- What a place. I wish this existed in Amsterdam. You’re going to have to figure out what they’re good at on your own- can’t give too much away, you understand.
García de la Navarra- That old Rioja list: that’s the thing.
Cuenllas- Great little restaurant with a great little wine shop next door.
SEVILLA
EAT:
Bar Eslava Excellent tapas, both traditional & modern.
El Rinconcillo Oldest restaurant in Spain (c.1670); Sevilla’s version of McSorley’s.
Bar las Golondrinas (1) Head across the bridge to take in this traditional tapas spot, decorated in painted tiles: the specialty in Triana.
Alvaro Peregil - You know the deal, they don’t have a website, they don’t even have a Facebook page. Just go. Old school, too-bright lighting, delicious food. Have a few dishes here, then head down the block to Bodega Santa Cruz and have a few more copitas of Sherry and a few more tapas.
PLAY:
Real Alcazar - If you travel all the way to Sevilla and don’t know about this place, well, that’d be something. While I’m not generally a religious-site kinda girl, this place is worth the trip. The Moorish tiling and the gardens alone are worth your time.
JEREZ
EAT:
Cruz Blanca Sit outside, watch Jerez cruise by, drink gazpacho.
Bar Juanito Order Valdespino Inocente. Order another. Have some jamon.
La Moderna Great for breakfast or tapas; head to the back to see part of the old city wall, tucked inside the restaurant’s interior.
La Carboná Steak. Steak. Steak.
SANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDA
EAT:
Casa Bigote After eating all of the seafood you can, head out to the boardwalk for some gin-tonics & the sunset.
Casa Balbino Tortillitas de camarones. Jamon. Sherry. Give thanks.
El Campero A temple built to tuna. There is even a map of the body; turns out you can eat every single piece of it.
PLAY:
Taberna der Guerrita Fantastic bar with tapas up front (run by the dad)...
La Sacristía ... And the best sherry shop in the world in back (run by the son.)
EL PUERTO DE SANTA MARÍA
EAT:
Aponiente The best wine-paired menu ever; it’s brilliant (you can even have an entirely sherry-paired meal.)
El Faro Still have yet to go...
CÁDIZ
EAT:
Cumbres Mayores Extensive menu of traditional tapas & a fun list of sherry.
STAY:
Parador Hotel Atlantico On the tip of old Cadiz, overlooking the ocean.
DENVER
EAT:
Tavernetta- The casual sister to Frasca in Boulder, Tavernetta is located in Union Station, the train station in the center of Denver. Great vibe, excellent food, and killer wine.
Cart Driver- Excellent pizza and spritzes located in an old shipping container.
Hop Alley- Chinese focused menu that ranges all over Asia, served alongside a strong hip hop soundtrack.
D’Corazon’s- Mexican food to hit the spot served with margaritas and no pretense.
Little Owl Coffee- Great coffee, great vibe.
Tavernetta- Bobby Stuckey’s Denver babies, both Tavernetta and Sunday Vinyl hit the spot every single time. Tavernetta has got your Italian yum, and Sunday Vinyl has the snacks you always want but never have the ingredients for (ahem, anchovy toast.). Not to mention Carlin Karr, who has you covered on the wine front- this team is A++.
STAY:
The Crawford Hotel- Located in Union Station, the rooms are a throwback to the old culture of train travel. The train station is bustling and having one last cocktail on the third floor of the train station overlooking it all at the end of the night is a treat.
NEW ORLEANS
EAT:
Clancy’ We go here every chance we get. Last time we went twice in as many days. If it’ in season get the smoked soft shell crab, it’ insane. This place is one of the greats.
Felix’ Oyster Bar Because the guys shucking.
Camellia Grill BLT. Coffee. Diner culture. Holy Trinity.
Galatoire’ Bar & Steak Yes, Galatoire’ for the Friday lunch is the scene in town. It’ fun as *** and packed. So head next door to their 33 Bar for something a tad more chill with just as much old-wood and white tablecloth charm.
Domilise's Po’ Nuff said.
PLAY:
ACE Hotel Like any ACE anywhere, the rooms are sparse, a little dark, and very hip. But the vibe is cool and there’ a rooftop pool and bar.
Bacchanal Grab a bottle of wine from the shop, find a seat outside, order your food, bus your own table. Genius.
RALEIGH
EAT:
TASMANIA
EAT:
Franklin- Fresh, imaginative food in a sleek, industrial hip space.
Templo- Italian-ish small plates, lovely atmosphere. Order the entire menu.
STAY:
Henry Jones Art Hotel- Plush, quirky, excellent location on Hobart Bay.
PLAY:
MONA- One of the best museum experiences we’ve ever had. You get there by boat (ask for the Posh Pit tickets- you’ll get to drink Tazzie bubbles while cruising to the museum), and are transported to the world of the museum… spend all day here snacking in the cafe, playing, imagining, staying for dinner in the restaurant if it suits you… It’ll blow your mind.
PIEDMONT
EAT:
Osteria Bottaglino- THE TRUFFLES. Also the pasta.
Tra Arte e Querce- The owner heads out with his truffle dogs and forages what will become one of your favorite meals. From the top of a hill there’ a lovely view, the room is warm and homey, and the truffles.
Le Case della Saracca- If you’ staying at Villa Beccaris, walk downhill and find this tucked-into-a-stone-edifice wine bar. Super chic.
STAY:
Villa Beccaris- If you’ looking for that just so place to stay on your dreamy Piedmontese tour, we found it for you.
BYRON BAY
EAT:
Paper Daisy- Great lunch stop on your way from the airport to Byron Bay. Light and airy, near the water, clean food and a fun wine list.
Di Vino- Charming little Italian spot with small plates, good wine, and great service.
Rae’s at Wategos- Sexy little restaurant attached to a sexy little hotel perched on a perfect outcropping looking over Wategos Bay. Real cute.
Harvest- We took a scenic drive to Newrybar just to eat here: inventive, casual, delicious as can be.
Shoal Bay Country Club- When driving from Byron to Sydney, stop here for lunch. The food is fine, but the view is amazing, and there’s a great little walk over to an open ocean bay with a view to Shark Island. Not a soul was there, and the place is stunning.
STAY:
Victoria’s at Wategos- Right up the hill from Rae’s, less ‘cute and sexy’, more ‘refined and mature.’ Good apartment as a jump-off point.list.
Promised Land Resort- Stop here for a night when on the road from Byron to Sydney. Located in Glennifer, right outside Bellingen. It’s a little off the beaten path, and you will thank us for it. More open, green space and wild birds than we’ve ever seen in Australia.
LONDON
EAT:
The Ivy - This place is made to feel like you’re prancing around, dripping in luxury, living the high life. Go for the vibe. You do pay a bit for it, but maybe someone else will pay for you if you’re lucky.
Brasserie Zédel - A great late night option when you need that second dinner post-partying. Big bistro feels with a big bistro menu.
Barrafina - We LOVE this place. Classic Spanish bar dining, chefs right across from you, insanely satisfying food, great sherry, and very cold beer on tap. Be aware of the queue.
River Cafe - Classic for a reason. Clean, classic Italian with soul.
Gymkhana - Very very good Indian.
Kiln - Obsessed. Deep, funky Northern Thai food served from clay ovens.
BRAT - Bang-up Basque food from a very talented kitchen crew. Thoughtful, cared-for, crush-worthy food.
Noble Rot - This place is run by cool people, they put out a cool wine ‘zine carrying the same name, and they’re always packed with stylish guests. Oh and what a wine list.
China Tang - Relaxed service in an old school atmosphere with fun wine and Cantonese worth returning for once every London trip.
Bob Bob Ricard - You may think the super chic room and the tableside Champagne button are harbingers of mediocre food, but you’d be wrong. Sexy! Delicious! Fun!
The Barbary - ‘Our menu reflects the countries from the Atlantic Coast through to the Mediterranean Sea leading to the Middle East.’ It’s wordy, but the food is exciting.
Rochelle Canteen - Chef Margot Henderson (wife of Fergus Henderson of Saint John, where you should also pay a visit) feeds people well and fully. The patio is lovely, there’s a calming garden space, and you walk away feeling deeply nourished.
Cadet - I’ve been disappointed by the vast majority of wine bars across the planet, so I was hesitant to dive in head first when a friend suggested this place. Dead wrong, Carla. The food is exceptional! So finely executed, beautiful sauces, a bright, welcoming space. The wine is not the thing here, it is the food. And it’s worth the journey.
Sweeting’s- A London institution for over 100 years, this place feels like many top-hatted gentlemen have dined on classic British seafood here, sucking down oysters and pints of cask ale. Just what I want in a lunch spot.
Mountain- From the team that brought you Kiln (one of our favorite London spots) and Brat, Mountain somehow shows even more cooking panache than Kiln’s Thai or Brat’s Basque. The menu is not obviously tied to any cuisine, with offerings that sound familiar enough from other menus you’ve seen but done at a much higher level. Delicious, hip, sweet corner locale, a fantastic little restaurant.
STAY:
Hotel l’Oscar - Conveniently located and quiet, these super comfy, large rooms are outfitted in lush, decadent colors and textures. Perfect for chilly weather and snuggling in.
Chiltern Firehouse - Andre Balazs knows how to create a cracking space with sex appeal, chic as can be, that kind of make-you-feel-famous just by renting a room kind of magic. Fireplaces in some of the rooms, a sunken bar area packed with beautiful people, over-the-top service, all located on a surreal little street in Maryleborne that feels like a movie set. This is the West Village of London.
PLAY:
Bradley’s Spanish Bar - This is a sweet little dive bar that we stumbled in to watch some football, eat crisps from the deli across the street, and consume many beers. I guess what I’m saying is that this is listed here due to very personal reasons. We hope you love it, too.
BERLIN
EAT:
Borchardt- Old school brasserie peopled with upper-crust types who are a pleasure to take in while you enjoy your air-light, perfect schnitzel.
Otto- Great food! To look at it, you may think we’ve gone soft and are leaning toward tweezer food, but trust us- they know what they’re doing, and the food is righteous.
Mrs. Robinson’s- Casual spot with fun food and an easy-going wine list.
Paris Bar- You go to drip into the old banquettes, order the sole for lunch and drink no-name Sancerre. You go for the vibe. Yves Saint Laurent’s old haunt, and that should be enough for you, too.
Henne- OH MY!!! Heaven. Again, old school af, no cutlery provided, great beer and extremely juicy half-chickens.
Duc Anh Quan- If you’re comfortable riding your bike out East to a random warehouse-looking area for barebones lunch, you will be rewarded with excellent Vietnamese food here.
STAY:
Hotel Oderberger- Located in an old bath house in a super sweet neighborhood with clean, bright, minimal rooms and a stunning indoor pool.
BUENOS AIRES
EAT:
Casa Cavia- Very stylish, upscale restaurant with a beautiful library, a peaceful garden and exceptional food.
Cafe La Biela- BA’s version of a diner; head here for a fix-up after a long night.
Orilla- Fernando Trocca is at the helm here, and the food is fantastic.
PLAY
Verne Club- Super-tight cocktail bar under the guidance of the very knowledgeable, very able Fede Cuco. You will love him.
Cafe San Bernardo- To find a place like this while in a new city is like unearthing a gold nugget. Bright fluorescent lighting, sweaty kids playing competitive ping pong, pool and foosball along greasy French fries. Heaven!
Strange Brewing- Two Norwegian young men who initially headed to Stanford, then decided to take a road trip down to Argentina, where they set up shop making truly great beer. Some of the best craft beer we’ve ever had, and we don’t typically love the stuff.
SINGAPORE
EAT:
Imperial Treasure Super Peking Duck - It’s the one inside Paragon on Orchard Road. We were told to go here by a Singaporean friend who knows food. Get a private room in the back, order everything.
Hainanese Delicacy - On Scott’s Road. Small, packed into an upper floor of an indoor shopping mall, aluminum plates, no frills, wonderful.
Tea Chapter - Grab a table, take a break from the heat or the crowds, sit in silence and learn something about tea.
Ushidoki Wagyu Kaiseki - Excellent wagyu in a very beautiful, upscale locale.
Lei Garden - Chijmes location. To this day, maybe the best Chinese food we’ve ever had. Slow-cooked goose foot remains at the top of the list as a mind-blowingly beautiful, delicate, soulfully deep dish.
Summer Pavilion - Head here when you’re after the opposite of hawker stalls, vibe-wise. Michelin 1-star, beautifully plated Cantonese dishes and calm, discreet service.
San Shu Gong Dining - Blow-your-mind-good Teochew food. Book in advance, and arrive hungry. Pre-order the cold crab, warm crab, and ask about the Bombay Duck fish as well as the oyster omelet. Allow Roy, the owner and chef, to suggest whatever he wants; it was one of the great restaurant experiences ever for us; flavors we’d never had, perfectly executed. We went back the next night as well. If you feel like you can handle it, bring a few bottles of sherry as well (aged Manzanilla and Fino, Amontillado, Palo Cortado.) They pair stunningly well.
Eng Seng First Grade Seafood Restaurant - We haven’t been here, but a friend of ours who lives in Singapore and who knows food says it’s the best Chili Crab in town, so thought we’d share that gem.
PLAY:
Botanical Gardens- Visit them! Walk around! Run! Pet dogs!!
STOCKHOLM
EAT:
Sturehof- Classic raw bar with a very good Champagne list. Sit in the bar and chill out.
Babette- The quintessential cute af restaurant serving great food with a lovely wine list in a charming-as-can-be nook.
Restaurant AG- This is your meat fix option. You walk up a dark stairway in to what feels like a butcher’s lair, then you find that the food is delicious and the wine list is even better.
Aira- We don’t typically hit the finest dining spots, and so imagine our joy to learn what a gem Aira is! First off, the lighting in the room: it’s on the water, and you get magic sunlight even in the dead of winter. The food: it is fantastic! Delicate, interesting, nourishing, and just the right amount. The wine and service team are a delight, too. Treat yourself.
STAY:
Ett Hem- An entire home converted to a few ideal rooms, exceptionally outfitted. Enjoy the patio room for breakfast, the kitchen for dinner, and then relax in the living room after, mixing your own cocktails and reading old fashion magazines. Discreet chic done to perfection.
PLAY:
Samrui Thai Massage- May seem like a strange addition here, but some of the best massages we’ve ever had. We went twice in 2 days.
OSLO
EAT:
Arakataka- Fantastic Nordic Food, low-key, stylish room and excellent service.
Le Benjamin Wine Bar- This place. Love the vibe, the food, and the wine list. Sit at the bar and let the night slip along in a magical way.
ISTANBUL
EAT:
Zubeyir Ocakbasi- Get your grilled meats on here! Sit near the grill action, order all the sides and plenty of raki.
Imroz- Old-school seafood cafe with a very soulful vibe.
Balikci Sabahattin- We went here twice in 2 days. Insanely fantastic fish display with passionate service, spicy peppers in yogurt, and beautiful salads.
Karakoy Lokantasi- Very NYC-chic meze and raki restaurant- order everything and give yourself time to enjoy it all.
Hayvore- Very popular lokantasi, with a stunning array of dishes.
Durumzade- Made popular by Anthony Bourdain, and rightly so. Classic shish kebab.
Ozkanak Lokantasi- old school lokantasi, kaymak with honey and simit and chicken breast pudding with burnt bottom.
STAY:
Four Season Sultanahmet- Located in an old jail, it meets all your Four Seasons desires, but mostly it’s located in a central location to everything you want to see, and that’s always nice.
LECH
EAT:
Hus 8- Traditional stube serving hearty, straightforward food with a great atmosphere.
Bodenalpe- Extreme charm! Great food, cold beer, beautiful views. Win.
STAY:
Arlberg Hotel- We stayed here, fell in love with it, came back 3 weeks later, then swore ourselves to them for life. Their outdoor and indoor pools are soooo nice, the casual traditional restaurant (Die Stube) serves an entire menu of fondue (get the Asian and the schnitzel, side by side), and their bedding literally swallows you. J’adore.
PLAY:
Skyspace- James Turrell creates breathtaking structures in far flung locations (we last saw one in Tasmania) that are meant to frame the sky surrounded by changing colors. Trust us; it’s profound work. Open to all, free, only open at sunrise and sunset. Don’t miss it. Lots of great hikes in Lech, but we loved the one where you end up at Restaurant Seekopf overlooking a turquoise lake, eating smoked trout and drinking tall cold beers.
SALZBURG
EAT:
Marc’s- We were told that if we went here, it would be difficult to leave. We ended up later that night singing David Bowie and Freddie Mercury at the top of our lungs drinking very good schnapps with the one employee in the place. There’s one lady chef and one man doing all of the rest of the front of house work, including taking you to the cellar so you can pick what you want to drink. Great heart.
SLOVENIA (Luče, Vipava)
EAT/ STAY/ PLAY:
Hisa Raduha- (Luče) We drove to Slovenia just to stay here. High up in the mountains, surrounded by nature, excellent hikes with unbelievably idyllic huts to enjoy, and a personal jacuzzi in your room. The kids run the hotel and the service, the parents cook each morning and evening, and it was some of the best food we’ve had this year. Our jaws were on the floor with wonder and pure joy.
Majerija- (Vipava) This place is a bit of a dream; you come out of the mountains into the valley, through vineyards, and towards a single cluster of farm buildings surrounded by well-tended gardens and livestock. Here you dine on excellent local food alongside a great local wine list, served by a crew that cares about every wonderful detail. There are also guest rooms to rent.
ITALIAN ALPS (Dolomites)
EAT:
Alla Dama Bianca- Head to Trieste for excellent seafood right on the water. The ‘60’s feel alive here, with white washed walls, tan Europeans, and small dinghies bobbing in the little bay as you enjoy every single delicacy the sea has to offer.
Da Aurelio- The chef is the master of foraging mushrooms and herbs, and it shows in his delicate, honest cooking. It doesn’t hurt that the restaurant is smack dab in the middle of some of the most beautiful mountain pastures ever.
Rifugio Col Alt- This is less a hike to a hut and more like taking a lift to the hut, but that does not diminish the lovely food and very fun wine list.
STAY:
Rosa Alpina Hotel & Spa- Located in the Dolomites, the Italian part of the Alps, is this oasis. To be honest, you’re already in one of the most beautiful places on earth, and once you arrive to Rosa Alpina, they wrap you in the most complete hospitality you can imagine. Yoga room, cinema, excellent fine and casual dining, and a top notch spa. Talk to Hugo, the owner and operator, who will tell you exactly which hikes and huts to visit for the best experience.
La Subida- Run by the Sirk family in Friuli, this is the country home you’ve been dreaming of, replete with the father cooking, the mother and kids serving wine and food, the son making wine, and a brand new Libreria room tucked away on the hillside with 2 outdoor bathtubs overlooking a fern garden. Food, wine and service are second to none.
PLAY:
Scotoni Hutte- Hike here, taking either the more carefree road up, or over a steeper pass down into the valley where Scotoni is located. From there you can hike up another 30 minutes or so to a pristine lake. The food is hearty, the wine and beer are just what you need, and the energy of the place is thrilling. Also, there’s a very friendly cow in the pasture who loves her neck being scratched.
Utia de Bioch- The culture of hiking to a rifugio (or hutte) tucked above town, between Alpine valleys, was a new one to me, and I fell head over heels in love. Get the blood pumping, see the goal in the distance, earn your beer and your polenta with wild mushrooms, and then cruise back down after a relaxing lunch. What could be better? I know, a great wine list! And these guys have it.
SWITZERLAND (Kleine Scheidegg)
STAY:
Bellevue des Alpes- You must leave your car in the valley town below, and you’re taken by cog train up the mountains to the hotel, where there is nothing but the sounds of the cow bells and the train whistles. Extreme Alpine peaks surround you, glacial waterfalls, thunderous rock falls, simple food and a hotel stuck in the early 1900’s, decked out in all its antique glamour. What a treasure.
COSTA BRAVA
BOULDER
EAT:
Efrain's II Best Mexican this side of the border. Get the Costillas.
Basta Wood fire pizza with great sourdough.
PMG- Excellent food, super fun wine list and great people. Win-Win.
Arcana- Healthy food that doesn’t feel like its looking down its finger at you and a lovely wine list.
Mustard’s Last Stand- Hot dogs and no wine list.
BASALT
EAT:
El Korita If you happen to be driving between Boulder and Aspen, drop in here, order the Korita Tostada & a Michelada. Extreme spice & a lil refreshment to help you survive.
FLAGSTAFF
PLAY:
Take a drive to Canyon de Chelly, where you can rent a horse and take an afternoon ride to see the White House Ruin Trail.
BRITANNY
EAT:
Le Coquillage at Maisons de Bricourt- It doesn’t matter if you aren’t even in Brittany. Find an excuse to come here. The hotel and the surrounding grounds are charming as can be, but Le Coquillage, the restaurant, is one of our favorites in France, and the reason for the journey. This is make-you-cry food set in a breathtaking little room with chic af style right near the beach.
Comète- Another restaurant/hotel spot, albeit a much more low-key option with simple but very well done hospitality. Seasonal food, run by a couple who have clearly poured their heart into the business. Worth coming to feel the love if you happen to be in the area.
STAY:
Le Nessay Saint Briac- You can’t beat this location- a late 1800’s mansion built on the site of an old castle, with location-appropriate Western French ocean views and a stunning little beach scene.
GUADALAJARA
EAT:
Campomar- I wish this place existed in every neighborhood I will ever live in from today forward. The best atmosphere, highly energetic and happy, serving the best seafood options with intensely spicy condiments. YES, please.
Bruna- Get your nice clothes on and settle in for a long lunch tucked into dreamy, plant-filled shady nooks. The garden! The food! Excellent.
SUD TIROL
EAT:
Flurin (Glorenza)- Check this place out on a drive from one town to the next; stop in and be overjoyed to find a solid menu and some exciting low-intervention wines served with a boatload of love. They also have rooms.
Meteo (Merano)- Don’t be put off by the strange website- go here! The views above the banks of the roaring river, the quirky and awesome service, the great food, and the wine cave that you MUST ask to see.
1477 Reichhalter (Merano)- We went three days in a row. Superb. Next time we go back to make hot sauce in the area, we are going to stay in the rooms and make real good friends with the entire crew. We are going to insist upon ourselves.
LUCCA
EAT:
Cantine Bernardini- Lovely location, tasty food, warm service, fun wine, and a sexy little bar.
Antica Locanda di Sesto- This place is legit. Drive outside the city walls and find yourself in what feels like lifetimes ago in a rural country setting with seriously good food. Do not miss it.
Momo Gelati- Owned by the same family as Cantine Bernardini, this place is outrageously delicious. I learned about whipped cream served on your sour cherry gelato here, and I suggest you do the same.
Giglio- I’m sure it’s nice for dinner, too, but my god what a lunch location. Sit on the plaza overlooking lazy and lovely Lucca rolling by, drinking from a great wine list and being pleasantly surprised by every course.
(go here if you are near) BARI
EAT:
Pietro Zito (Montegrosso)- It’s not near Bari. But if you are flying in and out of Bari and you’ve got time to trek to find outstanding food, ambiance and energy, go here. Insanely good food, and a helluva a way to spend an afternoon.
PUGLIA
EAT:
Taverna del Porto (Tricase)- We love this place. The red and purple shrimp are the stuff dreams are made of. They are what every ama ebi wishes it was. Set right on the beach, we went here 3 times in the same amount of days, and would do it again.
Il Bastione (Gallipoli)- Classic Puglian seafood, done in a perfect outdoor setting. After you eat, you can dip right in the water from the rocks.
Ristorante Lilith (Lecce)- A country home that opens its doors and dreamy patio area to those who’ve come to eat their excellent homemade food. A hidden gem.
Da Tuccino (Polignano a Mare)- Go here on a Sunday and watch the parade roll by. The outfits, the attitudes, the rousing letting-loose of a busy and excellent seafood spot, right across from the ocean. Special.
STAY:
Palazzo Daniele- This place is located at the very tip of the heel, far away from literally everything else. But there’s a room with a shower that falls from the ceiling like an art installation (look it up online), the entire place is ultra chic, and the cooking is wonderful.
Masseria Torre Maizza- Private beach, awesome pool, beautiful rooms and cinema-worthy grounds. Very nice.
SICILY
EAT:
Osteria Antica Marina (Catania)- A seafood lover’s paradise, set right on the rim of the Catania fish market. Come hit both! They are both worth the drive into Catania if you’re staying elsewhere.
Cave Ox (North)- This is a darling in the wine scene, as well it should be. A superb wine list, warm and generous service, and easy going, delicious food. Go when it’s warm and enjoy the patio.
Ristorante da Nino (Letojanni)- Take a drive to this little town and enjoy a nice lunch on the ocean. Pretty ideal, if you ask me.
PUERTO VALLARTA
EAT:
El Dorado- This is the beach restaurant you want. Book a table and a few chairs on the beach after. Drink all of the tequila, and accept the beach massage when it comes your way.
Joe Jacks Fish Shack- Our favorite place to eat in PV. The food is great, the vibe is ultra sweet and we love the humans running the place.
Pancho’s Tacos- THE taco joint. There’s always a line, so get there early and post up.
One and Only Mandarina- The most impressive place we’ve ever stayed. The location, the views, the team making it all run smoothly, and the food! Usually hotel/ resort dining is less than inspiring, but you’ve got Enrique Olivera running point here, and the food is light, clean and very pretty. Book a treehouse room!
PLAY:
Vallarta Botanical Gardens- It’s a bit of a drive, but do it anyway. It’s completely worth it.
SCOTLAND
The Fife Arms - Everything you’d want in a winter Scottish getaway: fireplace in your room, cask ales and an insane Whisky room, excellent pub food and you can even book a day to spend with raptors (Eagles! Falcons! Owls!)
MARRAKECH
PLAY:
Jardin Majorelle (Maison de Saint Laurent) - Go visit the grounds for the cactus garden alone. My goodness!
STAY:
El Fenn - You’ve most likely seen photos of this place on Instagram, but lemme tell you, it’s even better in real life. And the rooms! We had a stitched leather floor. The rooftop pool is a treat after kicking around the city all day.
ANTWERP
EAT:
Graanmarkt 13 - Excellent vegetable-forward cooking with a fun wine list and a chic as can be crowd.
Bun - We go here every time we are in Antwerp; refined Vietnamese food in a super fun atmosphere and loving service. Order everything.
STAY:
Hotel Flora - A very old collection of houses converted into the sweetest hotel with the most personal service. Stylish rooms with a playful personal touch, quiet, private and right in the middle of town.
GREEK ISLANDS
EAT:
Noemia (Mykonos) - Upscale, chic, with very good food. On a party-heavy island in a country where there’s tons of very good (similar) food, this is a stand-out.
Spilia (Mykonos) - The best lunch location on earth. Food? Good! Fun? Out of this world. And when you get overheated from wine or dancing, jump in the ocean, it’s right there. If you’re fancy or have fancy friends, take a boat to the restaurant and bask in the magic.
Beach House (Antiparos) - On what we consider one of the best islands anywhere, at Beach House, you have excellent food situated in the perfect little cove, with beach chairs for you to nap in once you’re sated.
Pipino’s (Antiparos) - Top notch, fresh-as-can-be seafood overlooking the ocean.
Sapou (Antiparos) - Great innovative Greek food, and so many good things to drink. Komos!!
Tamam (Crete) - Old school, soulful Cretan food served down an alley. We ate lunch and went back from dinner, ordering the same thing. Meat Pie.
STAY:
Ambassador’s Residence (Crete) - Overlooking the harbor, lovely service and perfect location. Book the Wooden Room.
Minos Beach Art Hotel (Crete) - A sprawling resort with truly great food, unbeatable seaside hangouts and lovely rooms.
LISBON
EAT:
Cervejaria Ramiro - Go here for all the seafood glory. Bright lighting, loud, messy (use your hammer to get at your crab meat) super delicious and fun. Get the cold and warm crabs. You might wait for a table, but they have a little bar where you can grab a beer alongside the restaurant, so stop stressing.
O Velho Eurico - Very good food in a raucous atmosphere with lots of other people also trying to get a table. Make a reservation request through IG DMs, otherwise you're not getting in, I'd reckon.
Pateo 13 - Super casual outdoor patio spot run by a family. Everything off a simple grill. The sardines are awesome.
Solar dos Presuntos - Owned by the same family forever, lots of futbol stars, packed house, great old school food with tableside service. Quite the scene.
Copa Lisboa - A nice cocktail bar with very very good food. Great for a midday snack.
Restaurante d'Adraga - If you’re driving from Lisbon north past Sintra (we didn't go, but heard it's awesome) this place is worth it. The seafood was lovely and clean, you're in this chill beach shack in view of the ocean, and you're in prime Colares country, read: salty, minerally Malvasia, which pairs perfectly with seafood.
PORTO
EAT:
A Cozinha do Manel - We were there on Sunday, where they roast a baby lamb. They only grill one, so get there early if you want it. Best we've ever had: truly awesome. Great service, space is packed with families in nice church outfits, and the food is bananas. Classy as. Hands down our favorite meal in Portugal.
MÁLAGA
EAT:
Figón de Juan - Figón means cheap or inexpensive, which the food here is, actually. But the special thing about this place is the care that is taken by Juan and his team. It makes the entire experience feel like fine dining, although you’re in a casual atmosphere. The food is truly nourishing, on a deep level. We went back multiple times in 1 week.
La Cosmopolita - Casual atmosphere but elegant dining, and very tasty food. Yes, the seafood you’d expect, but also one of the most rib-sticking beans-n-meat stews I’ve ever had. Ugly as sin, but so so soulful.
El Pimpi - An institution in Malaga, a bustling winery that now plays host to multiple rooms of locals and tourists alike. The food is traditional and good, but the vibe and the crowd watching are even better.
Chiringuito Tropicana - Chiringuitos are these little seafood bar/ restaurants joints lining the beaches in Malaga, and while I’m guessing they are all fairly similar: fish grilling outside, crisp white wine, outdoor seating (in winter!), this place was opposite our hotel, and we loved it.
Anyway Wine Bar - The concierge suggested this place, and while we balked at a wine bar (I don’t know how many more ‘shared plate’ concepts I can take), this place was legit. Very caring, attentive, thoughtful service, a great list of wines, and truly yummy food. Order the goat.
Los Marinos Jose (between Malaga and Marbella) - This was suggested by many people we trust implicitly, but they were on holiday when we were there. Can’t wait to go back.
GALICIA
EAT:
d'Berto - The mecca for Galician shellfish with a thrilling wine list (aged Albariño!) Family-run with love and care.
PLAY:
Fragas do Eume National Park - Drive through!!! It was dreamy. Such a nice break from the same travel stuff. Really quiet, still, dreamy. Old growth forest, not a lot of people around, heaven. Simply driving through is a mental re-set.
Drive by San Andres de Teixido. It's a teeny town with a spectacular view of the Galician cliffs.
SANTANDER
EAT:
Bodega Cigalena - We didn't get to go to Vino Vintage, as it was closed, but Cigalena was a great lunch spot. The vibe is classic verrrry old, dusty, wine-romance Spanish. Great food and fun wine.
ASTURIAS
EAT:
Gueyu Mar - This place is in the middle of nowhere, and awesome. Tons of La Bota by the glass. The sardines are perfectly lightly grilled. All fish, and especially the tuna collar were excellent. Get some of their berberechos conservas to take with you.
KOH LANTA
STAY:
Pimalai- Take a boat to your new island home! Or at least that’s what we did, and we suggest you arrive in the same fashion. It takes a moment to get here, but you are rewarded with a serene, quiet beach, and a jungle that’s teeming with wildlife (flying squirrels, bats, monitor lizards, monkeys!) You can book a boat to pick you up from the beach for a 45 minute ride to some of the best diving we’ve ever done: extremely clear water packed with rad sea creatures. And the food! Sometimes resorts can feel limited; not the case here. Excellent Thai food, warm service, heaven.
BANGKOK
EAT:
Here Hai - One night we were eating dinner and heard en ex-pat across the room exclaiming loudly about the best crab restaurant in Bangkok. Richard walked over to him and asked about it, and Here Hai is it. We didn’t get a chance to go, but if you do, please let us know.
Ginza Sushi Ichi - Tucked away in what feels like a forgotten corner of a mall, duck behind the wall and settle in for excellent sushi. Very chill service and no hint of the holier-than-thou vibe some omakase meals can have.
Gedhawa - Northern Isaan cuisine: think meats, lots of fresh herbs, heartier fare than the typical seafood-based cuisine you’ll find in the south. Very casual atmosphere, beer, tasty food that feels like it’s been prepared with love.
Sri Trat - Eastern Trat cuisine, on the border of Cambodia. A chic little spot with very very good cocktails that pair surprisingly well with the food. Excellent.
Sanguan Sri - Found this place online and we loved it. Feels like a cafeteria, all local day workers, small, simple plates and very good food. Soulful.
Nakorn Phochana- Excellent Chinese food in a no-frills restaurant where everyone is reaching over each other, boiling their own noodles or meats, laughing, eating well. The sour pork soup will heal you when you’re feeling lowly.
Jhol- Coastal Indian food! Not specific to any region, specific only to the coasts. The Indian food in Bangkok is the best we’ve ever had, and this was one of our favorites.
Adhoc- We generally steer clear of highly tweezered food, and if we stuck to that limiting guideline we might have missed this singular gem of a restaurant. The food has so much deep soul and layered complex flavors. They have a small kitchen helmed by a young female chef, blowing all pretense and preciousness out of the water, serving incredibly good food.
Gaa- Located in a beautiful old Thai house with chic design and a powerhouse of a female chef cooking some of the most playful, nuanced, light-yet-incredibly-detailed flavors you can imagine. Richard cried it was so moving. Good restaurants are so special!
Rongsi Phochana- This appears to be an almost generic-looking restaurant in a walking mall, but look closer at how packed it is daily with local Thai diners, and once you sit down and eat you’ll understand why. Delicious classics in a relaxed environment.
Aksorn- I first learned about David Thompson from his seminal cookbook, Thai Food: it’s the English-language history cum cookbook you need if you want to understand Thai food. Many of the ingredients are hard to find outside of Thailand, but you can visit Aksorn and enjoy it all. The menu is a love letter to 1950’s Thai food, and the restaurant is on the roof of the building in which it’s located, making it a great option when you’d like a break from the clanging street food scene.
Chop Chop Cook Shop- David Thompson’s casual 1930’s era Chinese diner (located in Chinatown) showcases what Chinese food in Thailand looked like at that time. High brow food in a super chill, stylish space, with very caring service from people who clearly love food.
Din Tai Fung (Central Embassy Branch)- There are multiple branches of Din Tai Fung scattered across the planet and multiple locations in the massive malls of Bangkok. But Central Embassy is our favorite; we like the cooking the best and the views from the massive windows down to the hustle of the streets is rad. Bring friends, order some tea and watermelon juice and order everything.
Appia- Sometimes when you’re in Bangkok you want Italian comfort food, and that’s when Appia makes your dreams come true. The crew working there is filled with light and kindness and the food is truly tasty.
Paste- Tucked into a corner of yet another large Bangkok mall, Paste feels a bit like it might be stuck in another time, slightly dated decor and soaring design pieces hung from the ceiling. And the food can even feel a little dated in its plating, but look past all that and enjoy how truly delicious it is! Proper cooking in a funny location with a nice view over yet another mall. Sign me up.
Samrub Samrub Thai- You’re going to need to book this one a long time in advance. It’s wholly worth it. Inspired, wild, outside of the lines cooking with a renegade team and a chef that likes to chill and have a beverage with you. It’s awesome.
PLAY:
Canal Cruise- Ask your hotel which take-off jetty you should use. Request a cruise through the canals, kick back and enjoy the water monitors swimming past you, the occasional kingfisher flying by, and if you have the opportunity to buy some hot dog buns from someone along the way, toss them into the very dirty canal and see the brown water come to life with fish. We love it! Not to mention the Buddha statues, the Thai river houses and other colorful river taxis jetting by.
Dream House Thai Massage- There are PLENTY of Thai massage spots, and while this one looks like you might be heading down a random parking lane, keep walking to find a low key but excellent Thai massage house. Some of the strongest hands doing caring, slow, deep work. Highly recommended.
STAY:
Mandarin Oriental - One of our favorite hotel experiences ever. This is the original Mandarin Oriental, and it still feels like I imagine it felt almost 150 years ago. Classy as can be, incredible food, views from your room overlooking the bustling river scene, a world-class spa featuring massive private rooms and 2-masseuse massages (swoon), one of the World’s 50 Best bars, and the most endearing service. Oh, and the royal family was there twice in the 4 nights we were there. My only note to you is this: when the King is in the hotel, the red carpet is not for you. I made that mistake.
Sindhorn Kempinski- We lived here for 3 months. We loved it a LOT. It offers all of the creature comforts one might want in the middle of a city that is mostly sweaty and loud. The hotel lobby hosts daily high tea and at night there’s jazz in their classy cocktail joint, the Firefly Bar. The gym is way better than it needs to be, there’s a full roster of classes in the fitness area, it’s located right across a peaceful tropical garden from a great grocery store and multiple lovely little restaurants. It’s centrally located, but keep in mind that traffic in Bangkok is some of the worst in the world, so you’re going to be spending 30 minutes at any given time to get to dinner anywhere.
IBIZA
EAT:
S’Espartar- Not on the beach, not a spot where the fashion crew will head. All the better for it. The food! The Bullit de Peix followed by the arroz a banda should be your order.
Cami de Baláfia- In Richard’s words: Everything off the grill and the best alioli I’ve ever had in my life. (He came home very excited about it.)
MALLORCA
EAT:
El Camino- A ‘fashion’ restaurant aka good-looking environs, filled with tourists, lovely service and delicious classic Spanish tapas.
Sa Roqueta- Not ‘fashion’ at all, mostly local people who seem to know the owner and have what invariably turn into long lunches with lots of laughing. Seafood is the thing, and their paella rice is thin (as it should be) and very tasty. Desserts are also great.
Ca Na Toneta- A bit removed from Palma, but worth the jaunt out of town. Chic and chill, with lovely food and a charming terrace.
Ses Coves- A bit out of Palma; go for lunch and enjoy the view over the valley. It’s all about the grill and what it offers seafood, meat, vegetables.
La Tabernita Desde 1992- We love this place! Situated in what appears to be an industrial area, this gem is worth venturing out of busy Palma. Truly the best grilled beef we’ve ever had, anywhere. And if steak doesn’t do it for you, everything else on the menu will. Run by a husband and wife team, open for lunch only M-F.
Meson El Rincón de Cai- Locals only here, with easy-going Spanish food done well.
DINS Santa Tauri- Fine Mallorquín dining.
Little Jarana- This places feels like you could easily drop it down in New York and it would be an immediate hit: great food, fun wine and a playful attitude.
Guethary- From the same family that has blessed us with Elkano on mainland Spain, this is a shrine to Mallorca’s best ingredients in a very calm space on a farflung beachy strip slightly outside Palma. Make the trip.
STAY:
Es Raco d’Arta- Located on the Eastern part of the island, this is a safe haven from the loud party tourists and kids that you’ll find flooding the beaches. Excellent food and stylish white-linen vibes tucked in a sweet little pocket of mountains.
Hotel Can Bordoy- Located in Palma, the Can Bordoy manages to feel a world apart with its calm interior garden and quiet, high-ceilinged rooms with plush interiors.
PLAY:
Use this hiking app to find a trail near Port de Sóller, then drop down the port or beach to have lunch at Patiki Beach or Blai Bar.
Rent a dayboat (either motor or sailboat) from Sóller Charter Experience.
TOKYO
EAT:
Yakitori Imai- Fine dining-style yakitori. Low lighting, sleek bar, and a quiet open kitchen rather than bellying up to a raucous dive-bar-feeling hole in the wall (also great.)
Yakitori Toriyoshi Ginza- Non-descript, non-fancy, great little yakitori bar. Get the grilled potatoes.
Odajima- We found this place while searching for great wine lists online. Run by the son of the founder, it feels more like a living room than a restaurant. Extremely low-key, with great wines paired by the son, who is also the only chef. We had a fantastic meal with him and met him the following day for a stellar sushi breakfast at Tsukiji Sushi Say Honten.
Tsukiji Sushi Say Honten- Get there before they open (yes, in the morning) and stand in line with everyone else. Let them choose for you. Have everything. The freshest, most eclectic, pristine sushi we’ve ever had. This is the opposite of Sushi Hoseki in the Bulgari hotel- this is for locals and people unafraid to learn new flavors.
Sushi Hoseki- Located in the Bulgari hotel and seemingly designed for well-to-do tourists, the sushi is excellent and catered to more familiar cuts of fish that international guests will recognize.
Sushi Bar Kakizaki- Unassuming, quiet, personal, excellent.
Sushi Isano- The sushi is excellent as is the rest of the omakase. The room is dashing, with a magical Japanese garden as the backdrop.
Butagumi- Juicy, fatty tonkatsu in all its glory.
Tempura Yamanoue- Located in a corner of a mall, this location is larger than a typical tempura bar with table seating as well, and a very distinct flavor to its oil which we came to love. In spring their mountain vegetables are thrilling.
Tempura Iwai- A serious, reverent, fantastic tempura bar.
Tenichi Ginza Main Store- A straightforward tempura bar in a modern room. While tasty, you want to go here primarily for the wine list.
Eureka! Sake Bar- A wild, almost ‘natural’ selection of sakes which the impassioned femal crew will happily discuss with you. They’ll even tell you exactly which sake to pair with each dish from a funky, delicious bar menu.
Nodaiwa Azabu Ikura Honten- This place was founded at the end of the Edo period (1603-1867) and has been run by the same family for 5 generations. We went to many unagi restaurants, and this place takes the eel cake without any argument. They also have a sister location in Paris which we beeline for as soon as we arrive in town. Order as soon as you sit down (it takes ~40 minutes to grill the eel) and enjoy sake and snacks as you wait.
A16- The original A16 is in San Francisco and is an SF classic. This location has even better pizza and is a welcome nook when you’re wandering through Ginza.
Savoy Kaminarimon- There are a few locations, this is our favorite, and our choice for best pizza in Tokyo. Extremely moist dough gives over to thin, very crispy pizza. Watch them hand-slice the garlic, toss the pie into the over for a moment, and then drench it in olive oil. Richard had tears in his eyes, that’s no joke.
Bramasole- The Japanese do Italian food better than most Italians in our opinion. Here the focus is the perfect pastas.
Spago- Unrelated to the Bevery Hills location, completely Japanese. The same guy has been here for years, serving up Barilla pasta with mainly Japanese toppings, this is incredibly fun, yummy comfort food.
Hakata Tanakada- Sexy as can be, high-end izakaya with a deep wine list and fabulous food.
French Monstar- The owner sells wine from his own well-aged cellar, paired with French food. The cozy space feels like you’ve been invited in to someone’s living room. Cute!
Namikibashi Nakamura Honten- A swanky joint serving an omakase with an array of Japanese treats.
PLAY:
Ekibenya Matsuri Gransta- Arrive to the train station early to have enough time to walk through this hall where many hundreds of bento boxes await your perusal.
Jus de Peche- A sharp, classy, discreet bar. You kinda have to search for it, and when you’re there it feels like they’re most happy with only a few seats filled at the bar. They have a big bowl of vegetables and fruit on the bar, which they juice fresh for cocktails. Their Bloody Mary (made with the world’s most perfect Japanese tomatoes) is nothing short of a revelation. There’s a very special little secret restaurant through the bar’s back door, helmed by the head bartender’s wife. The room is elegant, and her food is delightful.
Nihombashi Takashimaya- Originally opened in 1933, this old school department store in Ginza is home to one of the most inspiring grocery stores. There’s a gift-giving fruit stand where high-end fruit is expertly wrapped, a mini Meidi-Ya (Tokyo’s high-end grocery store), and a wine shop, all situated among aisles of sweets, meats, vegetables and any other take-away Japanese treat you can imagine.
Fumigrafico Bakery- An excellent bakery with a wide array of baked goods.
AATR NEW MAP ( copy)
OAHU
EAT:
Mitch’s Sushi Get everything on the menu. BYOB!! Also a great stop before your flight home as it’s literally next to the airport.
Sushi Ginza Onadera- Reserve ahead, ask for the sushi bar. Put yourselves in their hands, sit back and let the exquisite seafood and excellent sake list wash over you.
Ginza Bairin- Open since 1927, this is your tonkatsu place. Watch the chefs expertly fry that heavenly dish, order creamy, freezing cold beer and dig in.
Shingen- Quiet, relaxed atmosphere serving insanely beautiful house-made soba. Order a few items from the oden menu, order the cold sesame noodles, order everything. It’s all great.
Mac 247- When nothing else is open late-night, this is your place: 24-7 comfort food.
ARS Cafe- The best coffee shop in Honolulu.
TBD- Located near Diamondhead in the Lotus Hotel, an off-the-Waikiki-strip option with a menu spanning French, Indian, Hawaiian, etc. Don’t get weirded out by that description, get excited.
Han Yang- Located in an industrial strip mall, this is the place for great Korean BBQ. Get the Yakiniku Buffet and BYOB.
Leonard’s Bakery- Old school bakery (est. 1952) serving Portuguese malasadas: custard-filled hole-less doughnuts. Order the Haupia (coconut) malasadas along with a pumpkin pie and make your friends and family happy when you arrive with that Leonard’s branded box.
Miro Kaimuki- Take a drive to Kaimuki for this French-inspired menu alongside a lovely wine list, served by a fantastic group of people who are passionate about what they’re sharing with you. Lovely!
Sushi ii- We were in an Uber heading to the Ritz’s fancy sushi joint, and our driver suggested we also check out Sushi ii. Turns out we like this strip mall hole in the wall joint better, and ended up there many nights, sampling a daily-changing menu of some of the most exciting fish on the island.
PLAY:
La Mariana Sailing Club Also Oahu’s first Tiki Bar, this joint is rich in old-school Hawaiiana. Hit a drink here before heading to Mitch’s.
SEATTLE
EAT:
The Walrus & The Carpenter Killer oysters, super fun.
The Corson Building Out of the way in South Seattle- really special, as are all of their restaurants.
Inn at the Market This place is perched on a hill overlooking the Pike Street Market, in walking distance to all great snacks.
Cafe Campagne Located beneath the Inn at the Market, this is the best Parisian bistro we’ve found outside Paris.
Taylor Shellfish If you’re looking for great West Coast oysters, this is your spot.
SAN FRANCISCO
EAT:
Swan’s Oyster Depot Coolest restaurant in America. 100+ years old. Cash only. They open at 10:30am; get there early & drink muscadet with your breakfast. Seriously.
Colibri Just off the plane & starving? Guac, fresh tortillas, a shot of Sombra & a beer.
Izakaya Rintaro If you live in SF, you know; if not: now you do. Excellent.
Absinthe Brasserie Great bar, great wine list, & bangin' weekday specials. Hit it up for lunch & drip into dusk.
Zuni Cafe- It’s a classic for a reason. Don’t fall prey to ‘the new.’ Go here and slip into a timeless little afternoon with multiple courses, please.
Pizzeria Delfina- Also an oldie but a goodie. It’s very good!!!
LOS ANGELES
EAT:
Mori Sushi Make an early res, eat some of the most beautiful food of your life, get on a red-eye home. Win.
Fishing With Dynamite The best raw bar recipe: beautiful ocean light, fresh catch, great music & a sense of humor. Manhattan Beach.
Cora's Coffee Shop You can get tortilla soup for breakfast, and it's on the beach. Done & done. Santa Monica.
Capo Great cooking, great wine list, yummy deals to be found. Expensive? Yes. Delicious? Yup. Santa Monica.
Sushi Sasabune- Head here for lunch and trust them.
Angelini Osteria- You could easily be in Italy when you dine here. Same vibe, same great food. Classic as can be.
Sushi Tama- I ate here 3 times in 4 days. Order all of the shiny fish. Sit inside and chill or sit outside and watch Beverly Hills roll by. The fish is exquisite, the staff is casual but knowledgeable; it’s lovely. BUT THE FISH.
LAS VEGAS
EAT:
Lamaii Bank Atchawaran's new Thai spot. Trust everything he does from food to wine and you will thrive.
Lotus of Siam Yes, another Thai spot, and yes, worth it. Ask for the wine list.
Estiatorio Milos This place does the ocean right. It is a respectful bow to the riches of the ocean: how to let the fresh ingredients be, how not to fuck it up, how to serve sherry in the shrimp head. Nirvana.
STAY:
Cosmopolitan Vegas can hurt, but this place changes that stereotype. The rooms are sexy, the casino ain’t dodgy, and there’s great food: Milos (see below), Eggslut, Momofuku, Hattie’s B’s Hot Chicken…. But the best secret is the 3rd floor pizza joint that’s not listed. Don’t ever leave the hotel: see music here (we saw The Cure!), party here, eat pizza. Vegas is workable, trust us.
PHOENIX
EAT:
Pizzeria Bianco One of the OG Neopolitan pie joints in the US. Quaint and yummy.
PLAY:
Jerome Hit up this old mining town while driving from Phoenix to Prescott; old US history in tact.
MARFA
PLAY:
Donald Judd/ The Chinati Foundation Go look at what’s in the artillery sheds: one of the most moving art experiences in the world. Sh*t is bananas.
TEQUILA
STAY:
Hotel Solar de las Animas- This is the place to stay in Tequila if you want to feel like a movie star. There’s a rooftop pool, a lovely restaurant downstairs with an indoor fountain in the middle, and massive rooms where you feel like you’re on the set of Like Water for Chocolate. Yes, please.
PLAY:
Cantaritos el Guero- Outdoor bar on the side of the road mixing up the breakfast you’ll need when leaving Tequila to head to back to the airport.
La Capilla- One of the great bars on earth: not fancy, all soul. The signature drink (Batanga) is stirred with a steak knife.
MIAMI
EAT:
Japanese Market In a strip mall lives a Japanese Market . In the Market lives a tiny sushi bar in the corner. Walk to the back, grab a 16oz Sapporo, & wait til your name is called.
Mandolin Aegean Bistro Sit on the patio, eat with your hands, suck the bones.
Palmar- They call themselves a ‘moderne Chinese restaurant with a tropical vibe.’ Yes, please. Not to mention a rockin’ Champagne selection.
STAY:
SLS South Beach Eat on the patio, order the Embutido de Iberico & gazpacho for breakfast, along with a glass of Manzanilla.
PLAY:
Double Threat Fishing Charters Really cool, very capable kids with great equipment and moxie for days. #nofishissafe
Locust Projects The nexus of great young art in Miami.
NASHVILLE
EAT:
Robert’s Western World Sit at the bar, near the grill. Fried bologna sandwich, chips, American beer.
The Catbird Seat This is one of the spots that everyone knows about. There’s a reason. Bribe whomever necessary to get in.
Rolf & Daughters If you can’t get into Catbird, come here and console yourself with their on-point pastas.
STAY:
Union Station Hotel Nashville’s version of Grand Central as a hotel, along with day passes to an awesome gym. IT MATTERS. Genius.
CHARLESTON
EAT:
Leon’s Oysters, $2 Miller High Life Ponies and a good people-watching scene. Sit outside.
Xiao Bao When you’ve had your fill of pimento cheese and brown booze, come soak it all up with some beer and spice.
Go Fishing! Charter a local boat, grab a 12-pack and go fishing in the estuaries for red drum. A perfect Southern afternoon.
PHILADELPHIA
EAT:
Zahav Excellent Israeli food in a bustling, warm environs.
Vetri Date-night cute, fantastic service and food that makes you feel like you’re being deeply nourished.
Rooster Soup Co. 100% of profits go to support Philadelphia’s vulnerable citizens. The concept was dreamt up by Broad Street Ministry, who is doing some of the most admirable hospitality work on the planet: feeding those who need it most, and doing it with three course meals, warm service and great food: not soup kitchen simplicity. Rooster Soup Co. is everything you want out of a great diner, from a heart of pure gold.
PLAY:
Barnes Foundation Get out! Learn some things! Stroll through others’ ideas!
NEW YORK
EAT:
Hi-Collar This Place. Japanese cool writ over 1,000,000 times: tea during the day, sake at night, and perfect fried chicken sandwiches.
Joe Junior There aren’t many great diners left in NYC. Those gentrifying assholes are raising rents and putting in juice stores, which means our favorite Greek diners are getting the squeeze. Joe Junior hasn’t given in yet, and we are grateful for it. So much heart.
King A couple of women making excellent food with a wink towards Tuscany, a petite wine list, sun-flooded room, and lovely service. A reprieve when NYC threatens to eat your quiet.
Via Carota We love love love this place; the atmosphere is chic NYC bistro with shout-outs to Euro sensibilities, and the food is way better than you’d expect from a place so aware of how it looks.
Ilili Order Musar Blanc & ask for extra harissa.
Somtum Der You like spice and uber-umami?
Maison Premiere (BK) Champagne, oysters, and the best daiquiri in town.
Pasquale Jones- One of our favorite restaurants on planet earth. Spectacular pizza, thoughtful, complex salads alongside a great wine list and a crackin’ soundtrack.
Fausto- (BK) Joe Campanale’s spot, which means hospitality in spades, a thoughtful Italian list and great food.
Roberta’s- (BK) Yeah, you know about it already. It’s famous for a reason. Sometimes too cool for school on the service side, but you go for the food. Great pizza and really spectacular salads.
Buttermilk Channel- (BK) I hate brunch. But these guys do what can be a tiresome slog of soggy biscuits and hungover twenty-somethings really well. They also make good food the rest of the week! Good people here.
ABC Cocina- Not under the radar, not new. And yet we go here every time we’re in town. Really good margaritas, awesome hot sauce, and consistently yummy food.
Soho Diner- This place is fun af. It’s like an updated Peach Pit with truly good diner food. I’m not kidding. You’re welcome!
Ping’s- Hong Kong fare, which means a fantastic array of very exciting flavors, as well as some of the nicest service I’ve had in New York’s Chinatown.
Il Buco Alimentari- One of our favorite lunch spots in New York. Super fun wine list, excellent menu, great ambience and excellent service. A perfect spot to while away a wine-soaked lunch with friends.
Anton’s- Run, don’t walk! We hit up Anton’s every time we are in New York, oftentimes twice within a few days. The service is some of the sweetest in New York, the food is excellent (spaghetti anchoiade!), and there is plenty of delicious wine to drink. Great for lunch and dinner. Order an icebox martini and settle in.
Saigon Social - Vietnamese food from a classically French trained chef. Get one of everything on the menu.
Fini Pizza (BK) - Really good pizza in a stylish slice-lookin’ shop. Thin, crispy, classic NY pizza. The white is the choice.
Koloman - Located in the old Breslin space in the Ace Hotel, here we have delicately executed top tier Austrian food. Better than any I’ve had in Austria, to be honest. It’s fine food in a non-fine food room, which it turns out is a fabulous match. Have fun, laugh, be loud, eat like a queen.
Mountain House- Very good Szechuanese Cuisine on St. Marks. Unassuming, quiet, dark and quiet inside, very delicious.
Corner Bar- Located in the Nine Orchard Hotel, Corner Bar is a sexy space with a bunch of stylish money behind it. Great for high end snacks, a great burger (usually not listed on the menu, ask for it), and a chill moment away from the city.
STAY:
Ludlow Hotel Stay in a Skybox!
The Bowery Hotel - An oldie but a goodie, The Bowery still retains its very New York cool with a sexy lobby and low-key rooms with good views. Stay here for the service and the location.
PLAY:
Japan Premium Beef Pork chops and bacon WHAT. Butchery as beauty.(We bring it home in our carry-ons.)
New York Beach Ferry Explore the magic of NYC in summer, when water taxis are the jam, & the beach is only a beautiful boat ride away. BYOB
Attaboy In the OG Milk & Honey space; our favorite bar in NYC.
Dirty Precious (BK) First of all, it’s without a doubt the best name ever. Second, it’s owned by a firecracker of a woman, Katipai, who you’d be lucky to have tend the bar you’re sitting at. Third, great space, great selection of booze, sherry (!) and plenty of know-how without any star-tender drama.
169 Bar Looking for a great dive?
Central Park Lake: Row Boats! Picnic here. BYOB and BYOSunscreen.
BOSTON
EAT:
Neptune Oyster Worth the wait. Get everything on the menu.
Island Creek Oyster Bar Fresh-as-can-be oysters expertly shucked. Of course there’s other delicious East Coast treats (chowder, lobster rolls, etc) too, but those oysters… And a fun little list to boot.
Charlie’s Sandwich Shoppe Open since 1927, making diner-lovers swoon for the packed walls, the service and any and all kind of appropriate diner food you can dream up.
PLAY:
New England Aquarium Have a bottle and a dozen, stroll down to the piers if the weather is good, and enjoy what the majority of your planet actually looks like.
DETROIT
EAT:
Takoi Yup, went here twice in two days. Sometimes when you’re on the road, all you want is spicy Asian food to set you right, and this place answered our SOS calls.
STAY:
Foundation Hotel Housed in an old fire station, the rooms are lovely, the restaurant and bar scene downstairs are exactly what you want from a young hotel, and the people of Detroit are here to show you that Detroit is back, y’all.
PLAY:
MOCAD Head here for old-school ideas about art (they are great.)
Heidelberg Project Head here for new-school ideas about art (maybe even better.) This neighborhood was run down, gutted, dangerous. It was brought back from the brink with the creation of an outdoor museum, the Heidelberg Project. It made people see that they could take back something that felt broken and heal it, elevate it, make something beautiful out of it. It’s wonderful.
CHICAGO
EAT:
Spacca Napoli Pizzeria A little outside the city center, & very worth it. One of the best Italian restaurants in the country.
MFK Restaurant Sombra margaritas. Head-on prawns. Half of the restaurant is bar seating. Everything about this place feels right.
Cherry Circle Room Head here for old school luxury; wood paneled everything and a packed wine list.
Doves Luncheonette Diner alert!! Great diner alert!! (And great selection of agave spirits.)
STAY:
James Hotel They have a GREAT gym. In the world of lots of travel, you pledge allegiance to a place like this.
Virgin Hotel You know the brand, and you either love it or hate it. Personally, I care more about a great hotel room, and this place has it. Stylish; feels more like a fun sleepover than a work trip.
PLAY:
Public Barber Chic, dialed-in barber shop for that just so fade you’re lookin’ for.
COPENHAGEN
EAT:
Atelier September- You’re already visiting an expensive city; give in to it and order the very expensive, lovely avocado toast and green tea and sigh a great big yummy bougie sigh.
Manfred’s Cafe- They harvest from their own garden and the vegetables are beautiful. They’ve also got a killer steak tartare and a superfun natty wine list. Great for lunch!
Sankt Peder- The best option for smorrobrod, beer and saucy service. This place is our favorite. And no, there is no set menu or natty wine, so don’t even ask.
Barr- Located in the old Noma space (read: on the water and lovely), head here for the best schnitzel presentation ever and some very delicious local beer.
Kanalen- Excellent location on the canals, lovely food and a great wine list.
Anarki- Bistro style menu with a wine list peppered with gems.
STAY:
Nobis Hotel- Well appointed, quiet, extremely civil.
PLAY:
GoBoat- Rent a boat, pack a picnic and GO!
AMSTERDAM
EAT:
Rijsel This is our jam. The ideal wine dinner: roast chicken, greens and fried potatoes alongside a super well-priced, well-stocked list and great service.
Gebr. Hartering- On one of the most idyllic, picturesque canal corners in town, the Brothers Hartering offer an ever-changing, fantastic set menu with a killer wine list.
Proeflokaal Kef - Take the Buiksloterweg ferry from Station Centraal to Noord (free 2.5 minute trip) and ride or walk here for a bang-up selection of cheese and a few beers and wines to pair with it.
Cafe Moderne Take the Buiksloterweg ferry fromStation Centraal to Noord and ride or walk here for a great lunch (there aren’ many great lunch spots in Amsterdam) or for a romantic diner. Great food and natural wine.
Bar Pif- Super chill natural wine bar with tasty snacks. Open for lunch. Their sister spot, Alex & Pinard, is also great.
The Lobby Fizeaustraat- Slightly out of town, totally worth the Uber or bike jaunt. The food is great and the wine list will reward your travel.
Sichuan Food- They've been open for 34 years, run by the same family. Best Peking Duck menu we know of. Tell Raymond we sent you.
Si-Chuan Chinese- Yes, there are two of these on our list, no, they are not related. Our favorite Chinese food outside of Singapore.
Zoldering- One of the best wine lists in town alongside a fantastic a la carte menu. Highly recommended.
Cafe Parlotte- Also one of the best wine lists in town. Located in the Jordaan, go when it’s warmer and sit outside. Excellent food.
Bambino- Sister to Bak (also on our list), a casual lunch spot with lots of good natural wine and delicious food. Open for lunch.
Sagardi- When Spain can’t come to you, go here for excellent Basque food. Open for lunch.
Bussia- Great for lunch. A quiet little cafe with good food and great bakery items, all done in house.
101 Gowrie- Very chic, higher-end ambiance and a fantastic menu with a fresh take on Japanese cuisine through an international eye. Sounds weird. It’s excellent.
Beulings- There are so many set menus in Amsterdam, but this place actually pulls it off well. Stylish af room, great service, compelling menu and a little shocker of a wine list.
Sinck - Very good food, a great wine list, and when it’s warm out, one of the best canal cafes. And Komos!
Toscanini- Classy little cafe with proper Italian food (their spring vegetables are great) and a wine list with some fun nuggets if you take a moment to flip through.
De Kas- Slightly further out of town, a great place to spend a languid afternoon in the greenhouse-feeling space with a veggie-heavy set menu and plenty of Cotat.
BAK- Located in a seemingly non-descript industrial building, head upstairs to find yourself overlooking the river IJ. There is no beef, pork or chicken served, although you may find pigeon or deer, as they only use wild meats. Other than a course of meat, all else is vegetable-focused. Great Champagne options as well as natural wines.
Cafe de Dokter- Founded in 1798 and run by the same family for 6 generations. Sure, they have beer, they also have a fun selection of whiskies and a large hunk of cheese and house made smoked ox sausage. The smallest bruin cafe in town, literally dripping in cobwebs and lore.
De Wildeman- If you’ a beer-head, this is your spot. Ever-changing taps as well as a list of ~250 bottled beers. This crew knows their beer; they have decanting baskets for their sour beers. Get schooled here.
Arendsnest beer service here is on point; they also pair meats & cheeses with all their beers. Ask for advice & let them show you the goods.
Cafe Gollem selection of local beers on tap with a few locations around town.
Black Gold- Great coffee on the West side of town.
Toki- Great coffee on the East side of town.
H. Murray’s- A sneaky, stylish, low-key wonderful corner bar in the oldest part of Amsterdam owned by twin brothers. The vibe is top-notch and so is the location.
STAY:
Hotel Pulitzer- Consisting of 25 connecting canal houses: great rooms, super chic, excellent (public!) central gardens and comfy cocktail bar when the cool months have you reaching for boozy comfort.
The Lobby at Hotel V on Nes- The hotel rooms are great, and the restaurant is another one of our favorite lunch spots. Plush interiors, yummy food and a welcoming staff has made us regulars. The sister restaurant at Fizeaustraat has a more formal menu and a deeper wine list. Both are great.
Soho House- If you’ a member, great! Otherwise make friends with one and hit the best view of the city possible, poolside, with a cocktail.
PLAY:
Sloepdelen Zipcar of canal boats. How they allow someone to anonymously ‘’ a boat, pick it up, & drive themselves around in a city with a very lenient consumption policy is mind-blowing. Take advantage before they realize this & shut it down.
Admiraal Heijn- We’ booked the Admiraal Heijn boat countless times; it’ private, you have your own skipper, and you can navigate where you want to go. And of course bring whatever beverages and snacks you like. Tell Judy Carla sent you.
Sauna Deco place is decked out in the salvaged Art Deco pieces of the old Au Bon Marche, & you get to walk around naked. What else is there to say?
Cafe de Wetering - One of the best bars in town. Chill, away from the red light and all that mess, and with a huge fireplace in winter. Bring some cards and settle in.
Cafe t’Mandje- Opened in 1927 by a lesbian named Aunt Bet, Cafe t’ is our go-to queer bar with super positive, cuddly, beer-loving vibes.
Bar Exit- Our favorite LGBTQ dance club; dive-bar-feeling, open late, welcoming to everyone… we’ see you there. Their sister spot next door, Nyx, leans more towards a clubby feel if you’ not feelin’ the chill dive vibe.
Soho House- If you’ a member, great! Otherwise make friends with one and hit the best view of the city possible, poolside, with a cocktail.
A’dam Tower- Head over to Noord on the super-quick free ferry and visit the Lookout on top floors of the A’ building. The view over Amsterdam is amazing, and you can ride swings that fling you over the edge of the building.
W Hotel W Lounge- If you don’ feel like taking a ferry, take an elevator to the top floor of the W Hotel and view Amsterdam from there.
I AMsterdam- Want to move here? Not sure when trash pick-up is? Wondering what is going on in town today? It's all there.
PARIS
EAT:
Le Petit Verdot Japanese sensibilities meet French cuisine; great wine list.
Clamato Septime’s little brother, and by far the superior child. Fried whole fish & Champagne.
Le Dome Go for the bouillabaisse & learn a thing or two about fish service.
Le Repaire des Cartouche Dark, cozy, soulful French cooking.
Bistrot Paul Bert Best bistro in the world, hands down. Patina, great food, super fun wine list.
L’Ecailler du Bistrot Paul Bert’s next door seafood joint, ask for the Paul Bert wine list.
Le Baratin Great.
Le Dauphin- Rem Kolhaas-designed bar with delicious food and achingly cool vibe.
L’Ami Louis- Like an old school French bistro with the prices and flavors turned up to 11. Extremely curt service, but GREAT classic French cuisine, à la frogs legs and escargots.
L’Ambroisie- You will pay for it, and you will love it. Exquisite everything. But not silly prix fixe super touched food; this is the best restaurant and the best service in Paris in our opinion. Get anything with truffles. Richard literally cried with joy when we ate here. Exceptional.
Vantre- Amazing wine list being taken care of by an excellent wine team with real passion for what they do. What a treat! Very good food as well.
Les Arlots- Unpretentious service, a wine card packed with things to discover, and seriously outstanding food. Have a glass at their next door Billili before or after.
La Cagouille- It can be hard to find a good place to eat on Sunday in Paris. Good thing la Cagouille keeps its doors open so you can bathe in their beautiful seafood items. Best in summer, when you can sit outside, but no less delicious in winter.
Kodawari Tsukiji - Outstanding ramen theater. All fish-based broth; exceptional flavors in a super-fun recreation of Japan’s famous Tsukiji Fish Market.
Enyaa - Refined Japanese food with a fabulous Sake and Champagne list.
Nodaiwa - The grilled freshwater eel is the star here, with a recipe that’s been in the family for 5 generations. Served in a peaceful, relaxed atmosphere, this is a perfect lunch spot.
Shang Palace at the Shangri La. Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant with excellent service, food, wine list and room. Old school romance.
Arpege - 3 Michelin-starred vegetable-forward fine dining. Full stop. Delicate, delicious, fun, highly recommended.
Le Servan- What a lovely treat this place is! Superfun flavors, beautiful vegetables, a light-filled room when the doors are thrown open, and good wine to boot.
STAY:
Relais Saint Germain Sexy rooms hovering over a great bistro & fantastic wine and snack bar.
Hotel Bourg Tibourg- Super cute hotel tucked into a side street, lovely staff and romantic, tiny little Parisian boudoir-style rooms.
Hotel Costes - Sister to the cute and quiet Hotel Bourg Tibourg in the Marais, Hotel Costes is the sleek sibling with a bustling restaurant and ultra sexy rooms.
PLAY:
Candelaria In case you need your agave fix in Paris.
BASQUE COUNTRY
EAT:
Asador Etxebarri You have no idea. The mountain view, the smoke, the simple, perfect food… worth the country drive to the middle of nowhere.
Elkano Love letter to turbot. In spring the anchovy are chased into the bay by the turbot, then the turbot taste like anchovy. There is the sun-side, and the sand-side, and they both taste very different… You will learn A TON. SP
MANTUA
EAT:
Dal Pascatore- Tucked in to the countryside among animals and grasses lies this Michelin 3-star joint. Excellent everything.
HONG KONG
EAT:
Hong Kong Old Restaurant The smoked chicken (must order a few days ahead) will be one of the best things you’ve ever eaten. Shanghai Cuisine.
Luk Yu Tea House If Hong Kong had a mafia (& they may), this would be their hangout. Don’t let the lovely Art Deco facade fool you. And don’t let those punky waiters get in your grill. The world is yours. Dim Sum.
LockCha Tea House Located in Hong Kong Park, this is the coolest place ever to learn about tea… Great selection of teas as well as food made to go with them.
Spring Deer Restaurant The best Peking Duck of your life. BYOB
STAY:
Intercontinental On the Kowloon side, overlooking the entire HK harbor. Exceptional service.
BAROSSA
EAT:
FermentAsian She cooks SE Asian cuisine, he runs the room & a super dope wine list. Fantastic.
Fino Go here for lunch, eat very well & drink lots of sherry. Then visit Seppeltsfield (see below.)
Apex Bakery Longest running (c.1924) continuously fired oven in OZ. Pasties!!
Casa Carboni- We can’t recommend this place highly enough. Open most mornings and days, with a Friday night dinner option available. Book the Friday dinner. Ask Matteo (husband and Chef) what to drink, as he imports the wines he carries, and tell both he and Fiona (wife, hostess) that we sent you. LOVE.
PLAY:
Tanunda Hotel The TH. Best Cooper’s Pale you’ll ever have. Order a bag of Salt & Vinegar crisps & play pool.
Seppeltsfield Winery With port from every vintage going back to 1878, prepare to be impressed.
TUCSON
EAT:
Mariscos Chihuahua Best Mexican food in Tucson, maybe Arizona. It’s all about the seafood cocktails & LOTS of hot sauce.
The Little One Open for breakfast and lunch, bustling little cafe where the owner insists on a hug before you go. It’s heart-healthy livin’ here.
El Charo All about the carne seca.
STAY:
Hotel Congress What The Chelsea must’ve been like before it wasn’t itself anymore.
Arizona Inn Extreme old Hollywood glamor still alive at this place. The pool and the croquet lawns, the ping pong and the afternoon tea… it’s a slice of a simpler time.
PLAY:
Sonoran Desert Museum Cooler than you could possibly imagine.
TULUM
EAT:
Ka’an- Drive South past the Tulum scrum to reach this haven in the middle of a nature preserve: silent but for waves, exceptional food, and your feet in the sand. Perfect.
Kitchen Table- Drive North away from Tulum, and reach the archeological preserve, where you sit outdoors in the most unique restaurant layout imaginable, enjoying absolutely fantastic food. We went twice in 24 hours.
MEXICO CITY
EAT:
Contramar- The Balthazar of the DF; the place to be seen. The room is hoppin’, the crowd is flush, and the food is bangin’. Make a reservation.
Pujol- First: make a reservation. It’s high end, it’s a set menu, and while we generally won’t recommend those, this place blew us away.. The final dish was a dollop of new mole set on top of a dollop of aged mole (somewhere in the 1,000’s of days when we were there). It made us silent. It arrested us. We adore this place. (The chef, Enrique Olvera, also has Eno for those of you wanting something more chill: breakfast, casual lunch, tamales.)
Yakumanka Insanely good Peruvian food- we went there twice in 24 hours. EXCELLENT seafood.
Pizza Felix When you’re tired of tacos head here. Super chill, yummy, and open Sunday nights (not many things are.)
STAY:
Hotel Condesa DF- One of our favorite hotel experiences: centrally located yet peaceful, stylish rooms… you feel your ‘city shoulders’ relax when you walk in the door after having been out all day.
PLAY:
QI Wellness Center & Gym- The gym you wish you could carry with you when you travel (and you get free passes when you stay at the Hotel Condesa.)
OAXACA
EAT:
Marco Polo Awesome hidden patio, oven-baked seafood. Micheladas.
Itanoni A love letter to corn.
Casa Oaxaca You want the one within the hotel (see below.) It is GREAT.
Pitiona- Lovely food, wonderful quiet, peaceful indoor patio, nice mezcal service.
Criollo Enrique Olvera, the same chef as Pujol in DF and Cosme in NYC, creates a chic dining space with thoughtful food.
STAY:
Casa Oaxaca You may decide to travel to Oaxaca just to stay here. Pool, silence, micheladas, fantastic service.
BORDEAUX
EAT:
La Tupina As you walk in, there are potatoes being roasted over an open fire, which is connected to a system of pulleys, fuelling the spit which is roasting birds… It’s great.
L’Univerre You’re welcome.
STAY:
Maison Fredon After lunch at La Tupina, retire to their insanely chic rooms across the street.
DALLAS
EAT:
Tei-An Dallas is big & broad. Tei-An is the opposite. Ask them to pair Japanese whisky with your food.
Sachet- Go here! Really delicious food with Lebanese hints and a wine list that is made for the food. Great.
STAY:
Hotel Zaza These are sprinkled throughout Texas, and while they are kinda tacky and bridal party trashy, the Dallas location as a great gym and the bungalows are like having your own apartment.
AUSTIN
EAT:
Olamaie We can’t speak highly enough of this place; the team and the food are exceptional, and it feels like home every time we return.
STAY:
Hotel San Jose One of the most stylish hotels in the country.
PLAY:
Half Step If you find the food trucks & want a cocktail nearby, this is the place.
Midnight Cowboy NYC cocktail-stylee.
HOUSTON
EAT:
Mala Sichuan Bistro One of the best Chinese restaurants in the country, in our opinion. BYOB
PLAY:
West Alabama Ice House Get a buzz on here...
Cy Twombly Gallery at The Menil Collection ...then visit here.
BOLOGNA
EAT:
Osteria la Traviata- This place is exactly what you want in an Italian bistro: kids running around, family in and out of the kitchen, excellent tortellini in brodo and whatever red they’re serving by the carafe.
LIGURIA
EAT:
Locanda Conchiglia d’Oro- When you’re driving from Piedmont to France or Spain, stop here. Or make a side-trip like we do to visit this place: it’s that good.
FLORENCE
EAT:
PLAY:
ROME
EAT:
Costanza Hostaria Hidden down a few side streets, all about the fish and veg.
La Campana Rome’s oldest restaurant (c.1518) Very staid, very delicious.
Forno Campo de Fiori- Roman pizza: long, crispy pies with the most glorious tomato sauce you’ve ever had… for breakfast, snacks, lunch and dinner. Get the Marinara. Then cruise the farmer’s market in the Plaza- complete Roman heaven.
STAY:
Hotel Locarno Art Deco masterpiece, great patio, away from the noise & bustle.
PLAY:
Sant’Eustachio Get a shakerato, feel like you’re in a movie.
ADELAIDE
EAT:
Peel St. Restaurant- Always reliable, easy and friggin’ yummy. Hit it up.
Chianti- I’m not gonna lie; sometimes after weeks of harvest, you want a white tablecloth, Italian wine and some fiori di zucca, and the welcoming service makes it real easy to slip into a long, relaxing lunch.
Golden Boy- When you’re ready for something other than pasties, Cooper’s Pale and BBQ, hit this place up for some spicy Thai.
Parwana Afghan Kitchen- Please go here! What heart! What warm, welcoming, fun energy with super satisfying food. Wish there were more restaurants with this vibe.
Summertown Aristologist- Located in Adelaide Hills, we go here weekly while in the Barossa for harvest. Excellent, nuanced food with a subtle Japanese touch. Very good. Some natty wine, too.
STAY:
The Franklin Hotel Huge rooms, great style, super affordable.
PLAY:
Clever Little Tailor Many choices on Peel St, we suggest this one.
MCLAREN VALE
EAT:
Salopian Inn- Come for the vineyards, check out the ocean, and eat here. Delicious food in an unassuming little spot, great for a break from wine tasting and hot sun.
SYDNEY
EAT:
Otto Ristorante Campari & Soda. Bottle of Vermentino. Whole fish. Sit on the pier outside, bask.
Golden Century There are tanks lining the walls with mud crabs bigger than small children, & a wine list filled with back vintages of Barossa Shiraz & Bordeaux. Makes sense.
One Penny Red- One of our favorite spots in Sydney; quiet neighborhood, excellent food, warm service and a crackin’ local wine list.
Chat Thai- When you get off the plane and your world is upside down, head here for cold beer, spicy food and a healthy dose of funky fish-sauce based food. Medicine.
Mary’s- Burgers and chickens, natural wine, heavy metal.
Love Tilly Devine- Super lovely wine bar, down a little alley, yummy small plates, cute as hell.
Lord Nelson Brewery & Hotel- Home of Australia’s oldest pub brewery, great beer, crisps, hotel rooms and happiness.
Saint Peter- If you love fish, go here. Really special food with caring service.
Yellow- Vegetarian and interesting. Casual, energized atmosphere and a fun little wine list.
STAY:
Ovolo at Woolloomooloo- Our favorite place to stay in Sydney, hands down. Great rooms overlooking Woolloomooloo wharf and the Botanical Gardens, right above Otto.
Establishment Hotel- If you'd like to stay somewhere in the CBD, we like it here. Super cool vibe, quiet rooms, great breakfast and bar space.
PLAY:
Take the Manly Fast Ferry to Bondi to enjoy a lunch at Icebergs, a massage overlooking the wild salt pool (with Bondi waves crashing in), and a break from the city.
MELBOURNE
EAT:
Tipo OO- Charming little spot with fresh, light Italian food and a fun wine list.
Cumulus Up- We prefer the wine bar above their sister spot Cumulus. Great menu, very good wine list and a chic vibe.
Butcher’s Diner- Open 24 hours. Great burgers. Half bottles of Champagne. Done.
Bar Liberty- This place has an incredibly fun beverage list and outstanding food. Can’t recommend it highly enough.
*Coffee*
Patricia- The most complete service operation we’ve ever seen. From the moment you enter til you exit, it’s a flawless movement of hospitality, efficiency and the best coffee we’ve ever had.
STAY:
QT Hotel- Our go-to for a stylish hotel with quiet rooms in the center of the CBD. Walking distance to pretty much anywhere you’d want to eat, drink and explore.
SAN SEBASTIÁN
EAT:
Ibai Still have yet to go…
Saltxipi Get the spider crab & roll up your sleeves; every single part of the crab is divine.
Rekondo That wine list tho.
Ganbara Mushrooms upon mushrooms.
The Loaf Your best bet at getting a decent coffee in all of Spain. Gros district.
Borda Berri - For hot pintxos- Their salmorejo and beef cheeks were fantastic, and a nice break from typical pintxos on bread.
Ganbara - While this is a pintxo bar, request to sit downstairs, where you’ll receive a more thorough menu with lovely service, and a chill moment among all the pintxo madness back upstairs.
La Viña - Go for dessert: Basque cheesecake. Excellent.
Gandarias - One of the great classics, with all of the great sherries by the glass.
BARCELONA
EAT:
Bar Cañete We’d eat here every single day if we could.
La Boqueria Sure, you can walk the market, but the real deal are the restaurants inside the market. Bustling, fresh, delicious.
Cal Pep- You’ve probably heard of it. Gotta queue up early, they can be a salty bunch, it’s a show, etc. But it’s also really good, and probably what Barrafina in London is based on, and we absolutely love it.
Estimar- If you like fish and don’t mind spending for it, this place is very worth it. Everything is so very beautiful.
Casa Mari i Rufo- This is not so terribly different from many other places in Barcelona, but with a few less tourists, and truly great food. Sit up at the bar and take in the fracas.
Bar Brutal - Extremely lively, super fun, great food: this is what I want out of a natural wine bar. Love this place. Their sister restaurant Xemei, serving Venetian food, is a lovely place to spend an outdoor afternoon lunch over multiple vermuts.
Ca’l Isidre - You know we love fine dining when it’s got some age on it (opened in 1970), when it’s not precious, and when you feel as relaxed in the dining room as if in a bistro, but it also kinda feels a little reverential in the sweetest way. We came to tears here over the service, the absolute care from the team, and the simple deliciousness of the food. Catalan cuisine.
Ultramarinos Marin - This is one of the sexiest little spots we’ve been to in a long time. Opened recently, but with deeply chic taste, it feels like a bustling diner in front, and in back, a dark and cozy room with an open grill and wood burning oven. All of this and they only serve breakfast and lunch! But this ain’t a brunch joint (thank heavens), this is a seriously delicious but casual spot that feels like they’ve hit the lottery on all fronts.
La Cova Fumada - Opened in 1944, and feels like time has forgotten about this place. It’s perfect. Crowded, as casual as can be, inexpensive, fast, super delicious, perfect. Catalan cuisine.
PLAY:
Vila Viniteca - The website makes it look like only a wine shop, don’t be fooled. This is one of the most impressive collections of tinned and preserved products. all of the highest quality. Awesome array of jamon and all of the Spanish cheese you could hope for. Stock up here en route home, or just move to Barcelona to shop here.
MADRID
EAT:
La Dolores Best Mahou on tap in Spain alongside the best anchovy snack in the world. No music overhead; just the clinking of glasses, laughter, & that beer...
La Venencia Old-school, 1930’s-style bar with nothin’ but a few Sherries, a few tapas, a very friendly cat, & all the soul you could hope for. Do not tip (seriously.)
La Posada de la Villa Since 1642, & you believe it when you walk in. The spirit of the place lives in the service, the food, & a great Spanish wine list. Order the Pimientos del Piquillo & fall in love with simplicity.
O'Pazo One of the great fish joints on the planet. We went for lunch & immediately thereafter asked for a reservation for dinner that night.
Taberna Palo Cortado- If you feel like you’re swimming in a sea of Rioja in Madrid, this is your Sherry life raft. Great list with the food you want to go with it.
Taberna Laredo- What a place. I wish this existed in Amsterdam. You’re going to have to figure out what they’re good at on your own- can’t give too much away, you understand.
García de la Navarra- That old Rioja list: that’s the thing.
Cuenllas- Great little restaurant with a great little wine shop next door.
SEVILLA
EAT:
Bar Eslava Excellent tapas, both traditional & modern.
El Rinconcillo Oldest restaurant in Spain (c.1670); Sevilla’s version of McSorley’s.
Bar las Golondrinas (1) Head across the bridge to take in this traditional tapas spot, decorated in painted tiles: the specialty in Triana.
Alvaro Peregil - You know the deal, they don’t have a website, they don’t even have a Facebook page. Just go. Old school, too-bright lighting, delicious food. Have a few dishes here, then head down the block to Bodega Santa Cruz and have a few more copitas of Sherry and a few more tapas.
PLAY:
Real Alcazar - If you travel all the way to Sevilla and don’t know about this place, well, that’d be something. While I’m not generally a religious-site kinda girl, this place is worth the trip. The Moorish tiling and the gardens alone are worth your time.
JEREZ
EAT:
Cruz Blanca Sit outside, watch Jerez cruise by, drink gazpacho.
Bar Juanito Order Valdespino Inocente. Order another. Have some jamon.
La Moderna Great for breakfast or tapas; head to the back to see part of the old city wall, tucked inside the restaurant’s interior.
La Carboná Steak. Steak. Steak.
SANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDA
EAT:
Casa Bigote After eating all of the seafood you can, head out to the boardwalk for some gin-tonics & the sunset.
Casa Balbino Tortillitas de camarones. Jamon. Sherry. Give thanks.
El Campero A temple built to tuna. There is even a map of the body; turns out you can eat every single piece of it.
PLAY:
Taberna der Guerrita Fantastic bar with tapas up front (run by the dad)...
La Sacristía ... And the best sherry shop in the world in back (run by the son.)
EL PUERTO DE SANTA MARÍA
EAT:
Aponiente The best wine-paired menu ever; it’s brilliant (you can even have an entirely sherry-paired meal.)
El Faro Still have yet to go...
CÁDIZ
EAT:
Cumbres Mayores Extensive menu of traditional tapas & a fun list of sherry.
STAY:
Parador Hotel Atlantico On the tip of old Cadiz, overlooking the ocean.
DENVER
EAT:
Tavernetta- The casual sister to Frasca in Boulder, Tavernetta is located in Union Station, the train station in the center of Denver. Great vibe, excellent food, and killer wine.
Cart Driver- Excellent pizza and spritzes located in an old shipping container.
Hop Alley- Chinese focused menu that ranges all over Asia, served alongside a strong hip hop soundtrack.
D’Corazon’s- Mexican food to hit the spot served with margaritas and no pretense.
Little Owl Coffee- Great coffee, great vibe.
Tavernetta- Bobby Stuckey’s Denver babies, both Tavernetta and Sunday Vinyl hit the spot every single time. Tavernetta has got your Italian yum, and Sunday Vinyl has the snacks you always want but never have the ingredients for (ahem, anchovy toast.). Not to mention Carlin Karr, who has you covered on the wine front- this team is A++.
STAY:
The Crawford Hotel- Located in Union Station, the rooms are a throwback to the old culture of train travel. The train station is bustling and having one last cocktail on the third floor of the train station overlooking it all at the end of the night is a treat.
NEW ORLEANS
EAT:
Clancy’ We go here every chance we get. Last time we went twice in as many days. If it’ in season get the smoked soft shell crab, it’ insane. This place is one of the greats.
Felix’ Oyster Bar Because the guys shucking.
Camellia Grill BLT. Coffee. Diner culture. Holy Trinity.
Galatoire’ Bar & Steak Yes, Galatoire’ for the Friday lunch is the scene in town. It’ fun as *** and packed. So head next door to their 33 Bar for something a tad more chill with just as much old-wood and white tablecloth charm.
Domilise's Po’ Nuff said.
PLAY:
ACE Hotel Like any ACE anywhere, the rooms are sparse, a little dark, and very hip. But the vibe is cool and there’ a rooftop pool and bar.
Bacchanal Grab a bottle of wine from the shop, find a seat outside, order your food, bus your own table. Genius.
RALEIGH
EAT:
TASMANIA
EAT:
Franklin- Fresh, imaginative food in a sleek, industrial hip space.
Templo- Italian-ish small plates, lovely atmosphere. Order the entire menu.
STAY:
Henry Jones Art Hotel- Plush, quirky, excellent location on Hobart Bay.
PLAY:
MONA- One of the best museum experiences we’ve ever had. You get there by boat (ask for the Posh Pit tickets- you’ll get to drink Tazzie bubbles while cruising to the museum), and are transported to the world of the museum… spend all day here snacking in the cafe, playing, imagining, staying for dinner in the restaurant if it suits you… It’ll blow your mind.
PIEDMONT
EAT:
Osteria Bottaglino- THE TRUFFLES. Also the pasta.
Tra Arte e Querce- The owner heads out with his truffle dogs and forages what will become one of your favorite meals. From the top of a hill there’ a lovely view, the room is warm and homey, and the truffles.
Le Case della Saracca- If you’ staying at Villa Beccaris, walk downhill and find this tucked-into-a-stone-edifice wine bar. Super chic.
STAY:
Villa Beccaris- If you’ looking for that just so place to stay on your dreamy Piedmontese tour, we found it for you.
BYRON BAY
EAT:
Paper Daisy- Great lunch stop on your way from the airport to Byron Bay. Light and airy, near the water, clean food and a fun wine list.
Di Vino- Charming little Italian spot with small plates, good wine, and great service.
Rae’s at Wategos- Sexy little restaurant attached to a sexy little hotel perched on a perfect outcropping looking over Wategos Bay. Real cute.
Harvest- We took a scenic drive to Newrybar just to eat here: inventive, casual, delicious as can be.
Shoal Bay Country Club- When driving from Byron to Sydney, stop here for lunch. The food is fine, but the view is amazing, and there’s a great little walk over to an open ocean bay with a view to Shark Island. Not a soul was there, and the place is stunning.
STAY:
Victoria’s at Wategos- Right up the hill from Rae’s, less ‘cute and sexy’, more ‘refined and mature.’ Good apartment as a jump-off point.list.
Promised Land Resort- Stop here for a night when on the road from Byron to Sydney. Located in Glennifer, right outside Bellingen. It’s a little off the beaten path, and you will thank us for it. More open, green space and wild birds than we’ve ever seen in Australia.
LONDON
EAT:
The Ivy - This place is made to feel like you’re prancing around, dripping in luxury, living the high life. Go for the vibe. You do pay a bit for it, but maybe someone else will pay for you if you’re lucky.
Brasserie Zédel - A great late night option when you need that second dinner post-partying. Big bistro feels with a big bistro menu.
Barrafina - We LOVE this place. Classic Spanish bar dining, chefs right across from you, insanely satisfying food, great sherry, and very cold beer on tap. Be aware of the queue.
River Cafe - Classic for a reason. Clean, classic Italian with soul.
Gymkhana - Very very good Indian.
Kiln - Obsessed. Deep, funky Northern Thai food served from clay ovens.
BRAT - Bang-up Basque food from a very talented kitchen crew. Thoughtful, cared-for, crush-worthy food.
Noble Rot - This place is run by cool people, they put out a cool wine ‘zine carrying the same name, and they’re always packed with stylish guests. Oh and what a wine list.
China Tang - Relaxed service in an old school atmosphere with fun wine and Cantonese worth returning for once every London trip.
Bob Bob Ricard - You may think the super chic room and the tableside Champagne button are harbingers of mediocre food, but you’d be wrong. Sexy! Delicious! Fun!
The Barbary - ‘Our menu reflects the countries from the Atlantic Coast through to the Mediterranean Sea leading to the Middle East.’ It’s wordy, but the food is exciting.
Rochelle Canteen - Chef Margot Henderson (wife of Fergus Henderson of Saint John, where you should also pay a visit) feeds people well and fully. The patio is lovely, there’s a calming garden space, and you walk away feeling deeply nourished.
Cadet - I’ve been disappointed by the vast majority of wine bars across the planet, so I was hesitant to dive in head first when a friend suggested this place. Dead wrong, Carla. The food is exceptional! So finely executed, beautiful sauces, a bright, welcoming space. The wine is not the thing here, it is the food. And it’s worth the journey.
Sweeting’s- A London institution for over 100 years, this place feels like many top-hatted gentlemen have dined on classic British seafood here, sucking down oysters and pints of cask ale. Just what I want in a lunch spot.
Mountain- From the team that brought you Kiln (one of our favorite London spots) and Brat, Mountain somehow shows even more cooking panache than Kiln’s Thai or Brat’s Basque. The menu is not obviously tied to any cuisine, with offerings that sound familiar enough from other menus you’ve seen but done at a much higher level. Delicious, hip, sweet corner locale, a fantastic little restaurant.
STAY:
Hotel l’Oscar - Conveniently located and quiet, these super comfy, large rooms are outfitted in lush, decadent colors and textures. Perfect for chilly weather and snuggling in.
Chiltern Firehouse - Andre Balazs knows how to create a cracking space with sex appeal, chic as can be, that kind of make-you-feel-famous just by renting a room kind of magic. Fireplaces in some of the rooms, a sunken bar area packed with beautiful people, over-the-top service, all located on a surreal little street in Maryleborne that feels like a movie set. This is the West Village of London.
PLAY:
Bradley’s Spanish Bar - This is a sweet little dive bar that we stumbled in to watch some football, eat crisps from the deli across the street, and consume many beers. I guess what I’m saying is that this is listed here due to very personal reasons. We hope you love it, too.
BERLIN
EAT:
Borchardt- Old school brasserie peopled with upper-crust types who are a pleasure to take in while you enjoy your air-light, perfect schnitzel.
Otto- Great food! To look at it, you may think we’ve gone soft and are leaning toward tweezer food, but trust us- they know what they’re doing, and the food is righteous.
Mrs. Robinson’s- Casual spot with fun food and an easy-going wine list.
Paris Bar- You go to drip into the old banquettes, order the sole for lunch and drink no-name Sancerre. You go for the vibe. Yves Saint Laurent’s old haunt, and that should be enough for you, too.
Henne- OH MY!!! Heaven. Again, old school af, no cutlery provided, great beer and extremely juicy half-chickens.
Duc Anh Quan- If you’re comfortable riding your bike out East to a random warehouse-looking area for barebones lunch, you will be rewarded with excellent Vietnamese food here.
STAY:
Hotel Oderberger- Located in an old bath house in a super sweet neighborhood with clean, bright, minimal rooms and a stunning indoor pool.
BUENOS AIRES
EAT:
Casa Cavia- Very stylish, upscale restaurant with a beautiful library, a peaceful garden and exceptional food.
Cafe La Biela- BA’s version of a diner; head here for a fix-up after a long night.
Orilla- Fernando Trocca is at the helm here, and the food is fantastic.
PLAY
Verne Club- Super-tight cocktail bar under the guidance of the very knowledgeable, very able Fede Cuco. You will love him.
Cafe San Bernardo- To find a place like this while in a new city is like unearthing a gold nugget. Bright fluorescent lighting, sweaty kids playing competitive ping pong, pool and foosball along greasy French fries. Heaven!
Strange Brewing- Two Norwegian young men who initially headed to Stanford, then decided to take a road trip down to Argentina, where they set up shop making truly great beer. Some of the best craft beer we’ve ever had, and we don’t typically love the stuff.
SINGAPORE
EAT:
Imperial Treasure Super Peking Duck - It’s the one inside Paragon on Orchard Road. We were told to go here by a Singaporean friend who knows food. Get a private room in the back, order everything.
Hainanese Delicacy - On Scott’s Road. Small, packed into an upper floor of an indoor shopping mall, aluminum plates, no frills, wonderful.
Tea Chapter - Grab a table, take a break from the heat or the crowds, sit in silence and learn something about tea.
Ushidoki Wagyu Kaiseki - Excellent wagyu in a very beautiful, upscale locale.
Lei Garden - Chijmes location. To this day, maybe the best Chinese food we’ve ever had. Slow-cooked goose foot remains at the top of the list as a mind-blowingly beautiful, delicate, soulfully deep dish.
Summer Pavilion - Head here when you’re after the opposite of hawker stalls, vibe-wise. Michelin 1-star, beautifully plated Cantonese dishes and calm, discreet service.
San Shu Gong Dining - Blow-your-mind-good Teochew food. Book in advance, and arrive hungry. Pre-order the cold crab, warm crab, and ask about the Bombay Duck fish as well as the oyster omelet. Allow Roy, the owner and chef, to suggest whatever he wants; it was one of the great restaurant experiences ever for us; flavors we’d never had, perfectly executed. We went back the next night as well. If you feel like you can handle it, bring a few bottles of sherry as well (aged Manzanilla and Fino, Amontillado, Palo Cortado.) They pair stunningly well.
Eng Seng First Grade Seafood Restaurant - We haven’t been here, but a friend of ours who lives in Singapore and who knows food says it’s the best Chili Crab in town, so thought we’d share that gem.
PLAY:
Botanical Gardens- Visit them! Walk around! Run! Pet dogs!!
STOCKHOLM
EAT:
Sturehof- Classic raw bar with a very good Champagne list. Sit in the bar and chill out.
Babette- The quintessential cute af restaurant serving great food with a lovely wine list in a charming-as-can-be nook.
Restaurant AG- This is your meat fix option. You walk up a dark stairway in to what feels like a butcher’s lair, then you find that the food is delicious and the wine list is even better.
Aira- We don’t typically hit the finest dining spots, and so imagine our joy to learn what a gem Aira is! First off, the lighting in the room: it’s on the water, and you get magic sunlight even in the dead of winter. The food: it is fantastic! Delicate, interesting, nourishing, and just the right amount. The wine and service team are a delight, too. Treat yourself.
STAY:
Ett Hem- An entire home converted to a few ideal rooms, exceptionally outfitted. Enjoy the patio room for breakfast, the kitchen for dinner, and then relax in the living room after, mixing your own cocktails and reading old fashion magazines. Discreet chic done to perfection.
PLAY:
Samrui Thai Massage- May seem like a strange addition here, but some of the best massages we’ve ever had. We went twice in 2 days.
OSLO
EAT:
Arakataka- Fantastic Nordic Food, low-key, stylish room and excellent service.
Le Benjamin Wine Bar- This place. Love the vibe, the food, and the wine list. Sit at the bar and let the night slip along in a magical way.
ISTANBUL
EAT:
Zubeyir Ocakbasi- Get your grilled meats on here! Sit near the grill action, order all the sides and plenty of raki.
Imroz- Old-school seafood cafe with a very soulful vibe.
Balikci Sabahattin- We went here twice in 2 days. Insanely fantastic fish display with passionate service, spicy peppers in yogurt, and beautiful salads.
Karakoy Lokantasi- Very NYC-chic meze and raki restaurant- order everything and give yourself time to enjoy it all.
Hayvore- Very popular lokantasi, with a stunning array of dishes.
Durumzade- Made popular by Anthony Bourdain, and rightly so. Classic shish kebab.
Ozkanak Lokantasi- old school lokantasi, kaymak with honey and simit and chicken breast pudding with burnt bottom.
STAY:
Four Season Sultanahmet- Located in an old jail, it meets all your Four Seasons desires, but mostly it’s located in a central location to everything you want to see, and that’s always nice.
LECH
EAT:
Hus 8- Traditional stube serving hearty, straightforward food with a great atmosphere.
Bodenalpe- Extreme charm! Great food, cold beer, beautiful views. Win.
STAY:
Arlberg Hotel- We stayed here, fell in love with it, came back 3 weeks later, then swore ourselves to them for life. Their outdoor and indoor pools are soooo nice, the casual traditional restaurant (Die Stube) serves an entire menu of fondue (get the Asian and the schnitzel, side by side), and their bedding literally swallows you. J’adore.
PLAY:
Skyspace- James Turrell creates breathtaking structures in far flung locations (we last saw one in Tasmania) that are meant to frame the sky surrounded by changing colors. Trust us; it’s profound work. Open to all, free, only open at sunrise and sunset. Don’t miss it. Lots of great hikes in Lech, but we loved the one where you end up at Restaurant Seekopf overlooking a turquoise lake, eating smoked trout and drinking tall cold beers.
SALZBURG
EAT:
Marc’s- We were told that if we went here, it would be difficult to leave. We ended up later that night singing David Bowie and Freddie Mercury at the top of our lungs drinking very good schnapps with the one employee in the place. There’s one lady chef and one man doing all of the rest of the front of house work, including taking you to the cellar so you can pick what you want to drink. Great heart.
SLOVENIA (Luče, Vipava)
EAT/ STAY/ PLAY:
Hisa Raduha- (Luče) We drove to Slovenia just to stay here. High up in the mountains, surrounded by nature, excellent hikes with unbelievably idyllic huts to enjoy, and a personal jacuzzi in your room. The kids run the hotel and the service, the parents cook each morning and evening, and it was some of the best food we’ve had this year. Our jaws were on the floor with wonder and pure joy.
Majerija- (Vipava) This place is a bit of a dream; you come out of the mountains into the valley, through vineyards, and towards a single cluster of farm buildings surrounded by well-tended gardens and livestock. Here you dine on excellent local food alongside a great local wine list, served by a crew that cares about every wonderful detail. There are also guest rooms to rent.
ITALIAN ALPS (Dolomites)
EAT:
Alla Dama Bianca- Head to Trieste for excellent seafood right on the water. The ‘60’s feel alive here, with white washed walls, tan Europeans, and small dinghies bobbing in the little bay as you enjoy every single delicacy the sea has to offer.
Da Aurelio- The chef is the master of foraging mushrooms and herbs, and it shows in his delicate, honest cooking. It doesn’t hurt that the restaurant is smack dab in the middle of some of the most beautiful mountain pastures ever.
Rifugio Col Alt- This is less a hike to a hut and more like taking a lift to the hut, but that does not diminish the lovely food and very fun wine list.
STAY:
Rosa Alpina Hotel & Spa- Located in the Dolomites, the Italian part of the Alps, is this oasis. To be honest, you’re already in one of the most beautiful places on earth, and once you arrive to Rosa Alpina, they wrap you in the most complete hospitality you can imagine. Yoga room, cinema, excellent fine and casual dining, and a top notch spa. Talk to Hugo, the owner and operator, who will tell you exactly which hikes and huts to visit for the best experience.
La Subida- Run by the Sirk family in Friuli, this is the country home you’ve been dreaming of, replete with the father cooking, the mother and kids serving wine and food, the son making wine, and a brand new Libreria room tucked away on the hillside with 2 outdoor bathtubs overlooking a fern garden. Food, wine and service are second to none.
PLAY:
Scotoni Hutte- Hike here, taking either the more carefree road up, or over a steeper pass down into the valley where Scotoni is located. From there you can hike up another 30 minutes or so to a pristine lake. The food is hearty, the wine and beer are just what you need, and the energy of the place is thrilling. Also, there’s a very friendly cow in the pasture who loves her neck being scratched.
Utia de Bioch- The culture of hiking to a rifugio (or hutte) tucked above town, between Alpine valleys, was a new one to me, and I fell head over heels in love. Get the blood pumping, see the goal in the distance, earn your beer and your polenta with wild mushrooms, and then cruise back down after a relaxing lunch. What could be better? I know, a great wine list! And these guys have it.
SWITZERLAND (Kleine Scheidegg)
STAY:
Bellevue des Alpes- You must leave your car in the valley town below, and you’re taken by cog train up the mountains to the hotel, where there is nothing but the sounds of the cow bells and the train whistles. Extreme Alpine peaks surround you, glacial waterfalls, thunderous rock falls, simple food and a hotel stuck in the early 1900’s, decked out in all its antique glamour. What a treasure.
COSTA BRAVA
BOULDER
EAT:
Efrain's II Best Mexican this side of the border. Get the Costillas.
Basta Wood fire pizza with great sourdough.
PMG- Excellent food, super fun wine list and great people. Win-Win.
Arcana- Healthy food that doesn’t feel like its looking down its finger at you and a lovely wine list.
Mustard’s Last Stand- Hot dogs and no wine list.
BASALT
EAT:
El Korita If you happen to be driving between Boulder and Aspen, drop in here, order the Korita Tostada & a Michelada. Extreme spice & a lil refreshment to help you survive.
FLAGSTAFF
PLAY:
Take a drive to Canyon de Chelly, where you can rent a horse and take an afternoon ride to see the White House Ruin Trail.
BRITANNY
EAT:
Le Coquillage at Maisons de Bricourt- It doesn’t matter if you aren’t even in Brittany. Find an excuse to come here. The hotel and the surrounding grounds are charming as can be, but Le Coquillage, the restaurant, is one of our favorites in France, and the reason for the journey. This is make-you-cry food set in a breathtaking little room with chic af style right near the beach.
Comète- Another restaurant/hotel spot, albeit a much more low-key option with simple but very well done hospitality. Seasonal food, run by a couple who have clearly poured their heart into the business. Worth coming to feel the love if you happen to be in the area.
STAY:
Le Nessay Saint Briac- You can’t beat this location- a late 1800’s mansion built on the site of an old castle, with location-appropriate Western French ocean views and a stunning little beach scene.
GUADALAJARA
EAT:
Campomar- I wish this place existed in every neighborhood I will ever live in from today forward. The best atmosphere, highly energetic and happy, serving the best seafood options with intensely spicy condiments. YES, please.
Bruna- Get your nice clothes on and settle in for a long lunch tucked into dreamy, plant-filled shady nooks. The garden! The food! Excellent.
SUD TIROL
EAT:
Flurin (Glorenza)- Check this place out on a drive from one town to the next; stop in and be overjoyed to find a solid menu and some exciting low-intervention wines served with a boatload of love. They also have rooms.
Meteo (Merano)- Don’t be put off by the strange website- go here! The views above the banks of the roaring river, the quirky and awesome service, the great food, and the wine cave that you MUST ask to see.
1477 Reichhalter (Merano)- We went three days in a row. Superb. Next time we go back to make hot sauce in the area, we are going to stay in the rooms and make real good friends with the entire crew. We are going to insist upon ourselves.
LUCCA
EAT:
Cantine Bernardini- Lovely location, tasty food, warm service, fun wine, and a sexy little bar.
Antica Locanda di Sesto- This place is legit. Drive outside the city walls and find yourself in what feels like lifetimes ago in a rural country setting with seriously good food. Do not miss it.
Momo Gelati- Owned by the same family as Cantine Bernardini, this place is outrageously delicious. I learned about whipped cream served on your sour cherry gelato here, and I suggest you do the same.
Giglio- I’m sure it’s nice for dinner, too, but my god what a lunch location. Sit on the plaza overlooking lazy and lovely Lucca rolling by, drinking from a great wine list and being pleasantly surprised by every course.
(go here if you are near) BARI
EAT:
Pietro Zito (Montegrosso)- It’s not near Bari. But if you are flying in and out of Bari and you’ve got time to trek to find outstanding food, ambiance and energy, go here. Insanely good food, and a helluva a way to spend an afternoon.
PUGLIA
EAT:
Taverna del Porto (Tricase)- We love this place. The red and purple shrimp are the stuff dreams are made of. They are what every ama ebi wishes it was. Set right on the beach, we went here 3 times in the same amount of days, and would do it again.
Il Bastione (Gallipoli)- Classic Puglian seafood, done in a perfect outdoor setting. After you eat, you can dip right in the water from the rocks.
Ristorante Lilith (Lecce)- A country home that opens its doors and dreamy patio area to those who’ve come to eat their excellent homemade food. A hidden gem.
Da Tuccino (Polignano a Mare)- Go here on a Sunday and watch the parade roll by. The outfits, the attitudes, the rousing letting-loose of a busy and excellent seafood spot, right across from the ocean. Special.
STAY:
Palazzo Daniele- This place is located at the very tip of the heel, far away from literally everything else. But there’s a room with a shower that falls from the ceiling like an art installation (look it up online), the entire place is ultra chic, and the cooking is wonderful.
Masseria Torre Maizza- Private beach, awesome pool, beautiful rooms and cinema-worthy grounds. Very nice.
SICILY
EAT:
Osteria Antica Marina (Catania)- A seafood lover’s paradise, set right on the rim of the Catania fish market. Come hit both! They are both worth the drive into Catania if you’re staying elsewhere.
Cave Ox (North)- This is a darling in the wine scene, as well it should be. A superb wine list, warm and generous service, and easy going, delicious food. Go when it’s warm and enjoy the patio.
Ristorante da Nino (Letojanni)- Take a drive to this little town and enjoy a nice lunch on the ocean. Pretty ideal, if you ask me.
PUERTO VALLARTA
EAT:
El Dorado- This is the beach restaurant you want. Book a table and a few chairs on the beach after. Drink all of the tequila, and accept the beach massage when it comes your way.
Joe Jacks Fish Shack- Our favorite place to eat in PV. The food is great, the vibe is ultra sweet and we love the humans running the place.
Pancho’s Tacos- THE taco joint. There’s always a line, so get there early and post up.
One and Only Mandarina- The most impressive place we’ve ever stayed. The location, the views, the team making it all run smoothly, and the food! Usually hotel/ resort dining is less than inspiring, but you’ve got Enrique Olivera running point here, and the food is light, clean and very pretty. Book a treehouse room!
PLAY:
Vallarta Botanical Gardens- It’s a bit of a drive, but do it anyway. It’s completely worth it.
SCOTLAND
The Fife Arms - Everything you’d want in a winter Scottish getaway: fireplace in your room, cask ales and an insane Whisky room, excellent pub food and you can even book a day to spend with raptors (Eagles! Falcons! Owls!)
MARRAKECH
PLAY:
Jardin Majorelle (Maison de Saint Laurent) - Go visit the grounds for the cactus garden alone. My goodness!
STAY:
El Fenn - You’ve most likely seen photos of this place on Instagram, but lemme tell you, it’s even better in real life. And the rooms! We had a stitched leather floor. The rooftop pool is a treat after kicking around the city all day.
ANTWERP
EAT:
Graanmarkt 13 - Excellent vegetable-forward cooking with a fun wine list and a chic as can be crowd.
Bun - We go here every time we are in Antwerp; refined Vietnamese food in a super fun atmosphere and loving service. Order everything.
STAY:
Hotel Flora - A very old collection of houses converted into the sweetest hotel with the most personal service. Stylish rooms with a playful personal touch, quiet, private and right in the middle of town.
GREEK ISLANDS
EAT:
Noemia (Mykonos) - Upscale, chic, with very good food. On a party-heavy island in a country where there’s tons of very good (similar) food, this is a stand-out.
Spilia (Mykonos) - The best lunch location on earth. Food? Good! Fun? Out of this world. And when you get overheated from wine or dancing, jump in the ocean, it’s right there. If you’re fancy or have fancy friends, take a boat to the restaurant and bask in the magic.
Beach House (Antiparos) - On what we consider one of the best islands anywhere, at Beach House, you have excellent food situated in the perfect little cove, with beach chairs for you to nap in once you’re sated.
Pipino’s (Antiparos) - Top notch, fresh-as-can-be seafood overlooking the ocean.
Sapou (Antiparos) - Great innovative Greek food, and so many good things to drink. Komos!!
Tamam (Crete) - Old school, soulful Cretan food served down an alley. We ate lunch and went back from dinner, ordering the same thing. Meat Pie.
STAY:
Ambassador’s Residence (Crete) - Overlooking the harbor, lovely service and perfect location. Book the Wooden Room.
Minos Beach Art Hotel (Crete) - A sprawling resort with truly great food, unbeatable seaside hangouts and lovely rooms.
LISBON
EAT:
Cervejaria Ramiro - Go here for all the seafood glory. Bright lighting, loud, messy (use your hammer to get at your crab meat) super delicious and fun. Get the cold and warm crabs. You might wait for a table, but they have a little bar where you can grab a beer alongside the restaurant, so stop stressing.
O Velho Eurico - Very good food in a raucous atmosphere with lots of other people also trying to get a table. Make a reservation request through IG DMs, otherwise you're not getting in, I'd reckon.
Pateo 13 - Super casual outdoor patio spot run by a family. Everything off a simple grill. The sardines are awesome.
Solar dos Presuntos - Owned by the same family forever, lots of futbol stars, packed house, great old school food with tableside service. Quite the scene.
Copa Lisboa - A nice cocktail bar with very very good food. Great for a midday snack.
Restaurante d'Adraga - If you’re driving from Lisbon north past Sintra (we didn't go, but heard it's awesome) this place is worth it. The seafood was lovely and clean, you're in this chill beach shack in view of the ocean, and you're in prime Colares country, read: salty, minerally Malvasia, which pairs perfectly with seafood.
PORTO
EAT:
A Cozinha do Manel - We were there on Sunday, where they roast a baby lamb. They only grill one, so get there early if you want it. Best we've ever had: truly awesome. Great service, space is packed with families in nice church outfits, and the food is bananas. Classy as. Hands down our favorite meal in Portugal.
MÁLAGA
EAT:
Figón de Juan - Figón means cheap or inexpensive, which the food here is, actually. But the special thing about this place is the care that is taken by Juan and his team. It makes the entire experience feel like fine dining, although you’re in a casual atmosphere. The food is truly nourishing, on a deep level. We went back multiple times in 1 week.
La Cosmopolita - Casual atmosphere but elegant dining, and very tasty food. Yes, the seafood you’d expect, but also one of the most rib-sticking beans-n-meat stews I’ve ever had. Ugly as sin, but so so soulful.
El Pimpi - An institution in Malaga, a bustling winery that now plays host to multiple rooms of locals and tourists alike. The food is traditional and good, but the vibe and the crowd watching are even better.
Chiringuito Tropicana - Chiringuitos are these little seafood bar/ restaurants joints lining the beaches in Malaga, and while I’m guessing they are all fairly similar: fish grilling outside, crisp white wine, outdoor seating (in winter!), this place was opposite our hotel, and we loved it.
Anyway Wine Bar - The concierge suggested this place, and while we balked at a wine bar (I don’t know how many more ‘shared plate’ concepts I can take), this place was legit. Very caring, attentive, thoughtful service, a great list of wines, and truly yummy food. Order the goat.
Los Marinos Jose (between Malaga and Marbella) - This was suggested by many people we trust implicitly, but they were on holiday when we were there. Can’t wait to go back.
GALICIA
EAT:
d'Berto - The mecca for Galician shellfish with a thrilling wine list (aged Albariño!) Family-run with love and care.
PLAY:
Fragas do Eume National Park - Drive through!!! It was dreamy. Such a nice break from the same travel stuff. Really quiet, still, dreamy. Old growth forest, not a lot of people around, heaven. Simply driving through is a mental re-set.
Drive by San Andres de Teixido. It's a teeny town with a spectacular view of the Galician cliffs.
SANTANDER
EAT:
Bodega Cigalena - We didn't get to go to Vino Vintage, as it was closed, but Cigalena was a great lunch spot. The vibe is classic verrrry old, dusty, wine-romance Spanish. Great food and fun wine.
ASTURIAS
EAT:
Gueyu Mar - This place is in the middle of nowhere, and awesome. Tons of La Bota by the glass. The sardines are perfectly lightly grilled. All fish, and especially the tuna collar were excellent. Get some of their berberechos conservas to take with you.
KOH LANTA
STAY:
Pimalai- Take a boat to your new island home! Or at least that’s what we did, and we suggest you arrive in the same fashion. It takes a moment to get here, but you are rewarded with a serene, quiet beach, and a jungle that’s teeming with wildlife (flying squirrels, bats, monitor lizards, monkeys!) You can book a boat to pick you up from the beach for a 45 minute ride to some of the best diving we’ve ever done: extremely clear water packed with rad sea creatures. And the food! Sometimes resorts can feel limited; not the case here. Excellent Thai food, warm service, heaven.
BANGKOK
EAT:
Here Hai - One night we were eating dinner and heard en ex-pat across the room exclaiming loudly about the best crab restaurant in Bangkok. Richard walked over to him and asked about it, and Here Hai is it. We didn’t get a chance to go, but if you do, please let us know.
Ginza Sushi Ichi - Tucked away in what feels like a forgotten corner of a mall, duck behind the wall and settle in for excellent sushi. Very chill service and no hint of the holier-than-thou vibe some omakase meals can have.
Gedhawa - Northern Isaan cuisine: think meats, lots of fresh herbs, heartier fare than the typical seafood-based cuisine you’ll find in the south. Very casual atmosphere, beer, tasty food that feels like it’s been prepared with love.
Sri Trat - Eastern Trat cuisine, on the border of Cambodia. A chic little spot with very very good cocktails that pair surprisingly well with the food. Excellent.
Sanguan Sri - Found this place online and we loved it. Feels like a cafeteria, all local day workers, small, simple plates and very good food. Soulful.
Nakorn Phochana- Excellent Chinese food in a no-frills restaurant where everyone is reaching over each other, boiling their own noodles or meats, laughing, eating well. The sour pork soup will heal you when you’re feeling lowly.
Jhol- Coastal Indian food! Not specific to any region, specific only to the coasts. The Indian food in Bangkok is the best we’ve ever had, and this was one of our favorites.
Adhoc- We generally steer clear of highly tweezered food, and if we stuck to that limiting guideline we might have missed this singular gem of a restaurant. The food has so much deep soul and layered complex flavors. They have a small kitchen helmed by a young female chef, blowing all pretense and preciousness out of the water, serving incredibly good food.
Gaa- Located in a beautiful old Thai house with chic design and a powerhouse of a female chef cooking some of the most playful, nuanced, light-yet-incredibly-detailed flavors you can imagine. Richard cried it was so moving. Good restaurants are so special!
Rongsi Phochana- This appears to be an almost generic-looking restaurant in a walking mall, but look closer at how packed it is daily with local Thai diners, and once you sit down and eat you’ll understand why. Delicious classics in a relaxed environment.
Aksorn- I first learned about David Thompson from his seminal cookbook, Thai Food: it’s the English-language history cum cookbook you need if you want to understand Thai food. Many of the ingredients are hard to find outside of Thailand, but you can visit Aksorn and enjoy it all. The menu is a love letter to 1950’s Thai food, and the restaurant is on the roof of the building in which it’s located, making it a great option when you’d like a break from the clanging street food scene.
Chop Chop Cook Shop- David Thompson’s casual 1930’s era Chinese diner (located in Chinatown) showcases what Chinese food in Thailand looked like at that time. High brow food in a super chill, stylish space, with very caring service from people who clearly love food.
Din Tai Fung (Central Embassy Branch)- There are multiple branches of Din Tai Fung scattered across the planet and multiple locations in the massive malls of Bangkok. But Central Embassy is our favorite; we like the cooking the best and the views from the massive windows down to the hustle of the streets is rad. Bring friends, order some tea and watermelon juice and order everything.
Appia- Sometimes when you’re in Bangkok you want Italian comfort food, and that’s when Appia makes your dreams come true. The crew working there is filled with light and kindness and the food is truly tasty.
Paste- Tucked into a corner of yet another large Bangkok mall, Paste feels a bit like it might be stuck in another time, slightly dated decor and soaring design pieces hung from the ceiling. And the food can even feel a little dated in its plating, but look past all that and enjoy how truly delicious it is! Proper cooking in a funny location with a nice view over yet another mall. Sign me up.
Samrub Samrub Thai- You’re going to need to book this one a long time in advance. It’s wholly worth it. Inspired, wild, outside of the lines cooking with a renegade team and a chef that likes to chill and have a beverage with you. It’s awesome.
PLAY:
Canal Cruise- Ask your hotel which take-off jetty you should use. Request a cruise through the canals, kick back and enjoy the water monitors swimming past you, the occasional kingfisher flying by, and if you have the opportunity to buy some hot dog buns from someone along the way, toss them into the very dirty canal and see the brown water come to life with fish. We love it! Not to mention the Buddha statues, the Thai river houses and other colorful river taxis jetting by.
Dream House Thai Massage- There are PLENTY of Thai massage spots, and while this one looks like you might be heading down a random parking lane, keep walking to find a low key but excellent Thai massage house. Some of the strongest hands doing caring, slow, deep work. Highly recommended.
STAY:
Mandarin Oriental - One of our favorite hotel experiences ever. This is the original Mandarin Oriental, and it still feels like I imagine it felt almost 150 years ago. Classy as can be, incredible food, views from your room overlooking the bustling river scene, a world-class spa featuring massive private rooms and 2-masseuse massages (swoon), one of the World’s 50 Best bars, and the most endearing service. Oh, and the royal family was there twice in the 4 nights we were there. My only note to you is this: when the King is in the hotel, the red carpet is not for you. I made that mistake.
Sindhorn Kempinski- We lived here for 3 months. We loved it a LOT. It offers all of the creature comforts one might want in the middle of a city that is mostly sweaty and loud. The hotel lobby hosts daily high tea and at night there’s jazz in their classy cocktail joint, the Firefly Bar. The gym is way better than it needs to be, there’s a full roster of classes in the fitness area, it’s located right across a peaceful tropical garden from a great grocery store and multiple lovely little restaurants. It’s centrally located, but keep in mind that traffic in Bangkok is some of the worst in the world, so you’re going to be spending 30 minutes at any given time to get to dinner anywhere.
IBIZA
EAT:
S’Espartar- Not on the beach, not a spot where the fashion crew will head. All the better for it. The food! The Bullit de Peix followed by the arroz a banda should be your order.
Cami de Baláfia- In Richard’s words: Everything off the grill and the best alioli I’ve ever had in my life. (He came home very excited about it.)
MALLORCA
EAT:
El Camino- A ‘fashion’ restaurant aka good-looking environs, filled with tourists, lovely service and delicious classic Spanish tapas.
Sa Roqueta- Not ‘fashion’ at all, mostly local people who seem to know the owner and have what invariably turn into long lunches with lots of laughing. Seafood is the thing, and their paella rice is thin (as it should be) and very tasty. Desserts are also great.
Ca Na Toneta- A bit removed from Palma, but worth the jaunt out of town. Chic and chill, with lovely food and a charming terrace.
Ses Coves- A bit out of Palma; go for lunch and enjoy the view over the valley. It’s all about the grill and what it offers seafood, meat, vegetables.
La Tabernita Desde 1992- We love this place! Situated in what appears to be an industrial area, this gem is worth venturing out of busy Palma. Truly the best grilled beef we’ve ever had, anywhere. And if steak doesn’t do it for you, everything else on the menu will. Run by a husband and wife team, open for lunch only M-F.
Meson El Rincón de Cai- Locals only here, with easy-going Spanish food done well.
DINS Santa Tauri- Fine Mallorquín dining.
Little Jarana- This places feels like you could easily drop it down in New York and it would be an immediate hit: great food, fun wine and a playful attitude.
Guethary- From the same family that has blessed us with Elkano on mainland Spain, this is a shrine to Mallorca’s best ingredients in a very calm space on a farflung beachy strip slightly outside Palma. Make the trip.
STAY:
Es Raco d’Arta- Located on the Eastern part of the island, this is a safe haven from the loud party tourists and kids that you’ll find flooding the beaches. Excellent food and stylish white-linen vibes tucked in a sweet little pocket of mountains.
Hotel Can Bordoy- Located in Palma, the Can Bordoy manages to feel a world apart with its calm interior garden and quiet, high-ceilinged rooms with plush interiors.
PLAY:
Use this hiking app to find a trail near Port de Sóller, then drop down the port or beach to have lunch at Patiki Beach or Blai Bar.
Rent a dayboat (either motor or sailboat) from Sóller Charter Experience.
TOKYO
EAT:
Yakitori Imai- Fine dining-style yakitori. Low lighting, sleek bar, and a quiet open kitchen rather than bellying up to a raucous dive-bar-feeling hole in the wall (also great.)
Yakitori Toriyoshi Ginza- Non-descript, non-fancy, great little yakitori bar. Get the grilled potatoes.
Odajima- We found this place while searching for great wine lists online. Run by the son of the founder, it feels more like a living room than a restaurant. Extremely low-key, with great wines paired by the son, who is also the only chef. We had a fantastic meal with him and met him the following day for a stellar sushi breakfast at Tsukiji Sushi Say Honten.
Tsukiji Sushi Say Honten- Get there before they open (yes, in the morning) and stand in line with everyone else. Let them choose for you. Have everything. The freshest, most eclectic, pristine sushi we’ve ever had. This is the opposite of Sushi Hoseki in the Bulgari hotel- this is for locals and people unafraid to learn new flavors.
Sushi Hoseki- Located in the Bulgari hotel and seemingly designed for well-to-do tourists, the sushi is excellent and catered to more familiar cuts of fish that international guests will recognize.
Sushi Bar Kakizaki- Unassuming, quiet, personal, excellent.
Sushi Isano- The sushi is excellent as is the rest of the omakase. The room is dashing, with a magical Japanese garden as the backdrop.
Butagumi- Juicy, fatty tonkatsu in all its glory.
Tempura Yamanoue- Located in a corner of a mall, this location is larger than a typical tempura bar with table seating as well, and a very distinct flavor to its oil which we came to love. In spring their mountain vegetables are thrilling.
Tempura Iwai- A serious, reverent, fantastic tempura bar.
Tenichi Ginza Main Store- A straightforward tempura bar in a modern room. While tasty, you want to go here primarily for the wine list.
Eureka! Sake Bar- A wild, almost ‘natural’ selection of sakes which the impassioned femal crew will happily discuss with you. They’ll even tell you exactly which sake to pair with each dish from a funky, delicious bar menu.
Nodaiwa Azabu Ikura Honten- This place was founded at the end of the Edo period (1603-1867) and has been run by the same family for 5 generations. We went to many unagi restaurants, and this place takes the eel cake without any argument. They also have a sister location in Paris which we beeline for as soon as we arrive in town. Order as soon as you sit down (it takes ~40 minutes to grill the eel) and enjoy sake and snacks as you wait.
A16- The original A16 is in San Francisco and is an SF classic. This location has even better pizza and is a welcome nook when you’re wandering through Ginza.
Savoy Kaminarimon- There are a few locations, this is our favorite, and our choice for best pizza in Tokyo. Extremely moist dough gives over to thin, very crispy pizza. Watch them hand-slice the garlic, toss the pie into the over for a moment, and then drench it in olive oil. Richard had tears in his eyes, that’s no joke.
Bramasole- The Japanese do Italian food better than most Italians in our opinion. Here the focus is the perfect pastas.
Spago- Unrelated to the Bevery Hills location, completely Japanese. The same guy has been here for years, serving up Barilla pasta with mainly Japanese toppings, this is incredibly fun, yummy comfort food.
Hakata Tanakada- Sexy as can be, high-end izakaya with a deep wine list and fabulous food.
French Monstar- The owner sells wine from his own well-aged cellar, paired with French food. The cozy space feels like you’ve been invited in to someone’s living room. Cute!
Namikibashi Nakamura Honten- A swanky joint serving an omakase with an array of Japanese treats.
PLAY:
Ekibenya Matsuri Gransta- Arrive to the train station early to have enough time to walk through this hall where many hundreds of bento boxes await your perusal.
Jus de Peche- A sharp, classy, discreet bar. You kinda have to search for it, and when you’re there it feels like they’re most happy with only a few seats filled at the bar. They have a big bowl of vegetables and fruit on the bar, which they juice fresh for cocktails. Their Bloody Mary (made with the world’s most perfect Japanese tomatoes) is nothing short of a revelation. There’s a very special little secret restaurant through the bar’s back door, helmed by the head bartender’s wife. The room is elegant, and her food is delightful.
Nihombashi Takashimaya- Originally opened in 1933, this old school department store in Ginza is home to one of the most inspiring grocery stores. There’s a gift-giving fruit stand where high-end fruit is expertly wrapped, a mini Meidi-Ya (Tokyo’s high-end grocery store), and a wine shop, all situated among aisles of sweets, meats, vegetables and any other take-away Japanese treat you can imagine.
Fumigrafico Bakery- An excellent bakery with a wide array of baked goods.
AATR NEW MAP
OAHU
EAT:
Mitch’s Sushi Get everything on the menu. BYOB!! Also a great stop before your flight home as it’s literally next to the airport.
Sushi Ginza Onadera- Reserve ahead, ask for the sushi bar. Put yourselves in their hands, sit back and let the exquisite seafood and excellent sake list wash over you.
Ginza Bairin- Open since 1927, this is your tonkatsu place. Watch the chefs expertly fry that heavenly dish, order creamy, freezing cold beer and dig in.
Shingen- Quiet, relaxed atmosphere serving insanely beautiful house-made soba. Order a few items from the oden menu, order the cold sesame noodles, order everything. It’s all great.
Mac 247- When nothing else is open late-night, this is your place: 24-7 comfort food.
ARS Cafe- The best coffee shop in Honolulu.
TBD- Located near Diamondhead in the Lotus Hotel, an off-the-Waikiki-strip option with a menu spanning French, Indian, Hawaiian, etc. Don’t get weirded out by that description, get excited.
Han Yang- Located in an industrial strip mall, this is the place for great Korean BBQ. Get the Yakiniku Buffet and BYOB.
Leonard’s Bakery- Old school bakery (est. 1952) serving Portuguese malasadas: custard-filled hole-less doughnuts. Order the Haupia (coconut) malasadas along with a pumpkin pie and make your friends and family happy when you arrive with that Leonard’s branded box.
Miro Kaimuki- Take a drive to Kaimuki for this French-inspired menu alongside a lovely wine list, served by a fantastic group of people who are passionate about what they’re sharing with you. Lovely!
Sushi ii- We were in an Uber heading to the Ritz’s fancy sushi joint, and our driver suggested we also check out Sushi ii. Turns out we like this strip mall hole in the wall joint better, and ended up there many nights, sampling a daily-changing menu of some of the most exciting fish on the island.
PLAY:
La Mariana Sailing Club Also Oahu’s first Tiki Bar, this joint is rich in old-school Hawaiiana. Hit a drink here before heading to Mitch’s.
SEATTLE
EAT:
The Walrus & The Carpenter Killer oysters, super fun.
The Corson Building Out of the way in South Seattle- really special, as are all of their restaurants.
Inn at the Market This place is perched on a hill overlooking the Pike Street Market, in walking distance to all great snacks.
Cafe Campagne Located beneath the Inn at the Market, this is the best Parisian bistro we’ve found outside Paris.
Taylor Shellfish If you’re looking for great West Coast oysters, this is your spot.
SAN FRANCISCO
EAT:
Swan’s Oyster Depot Coolest restaurant in America. 100+ years old. Cash only. They open at 10:30am; get there early & drink muscadet with your breakfast. Seriously.
Colibri Just off the plane & starving? Guac, fresh tortillas, a shot of Sombra & a beer.
Izakaya Rintaro If you live in SF, you know; if not: now you do. Excellent.
Absinthe Brasserie Great bar, great wine list, & bangin' weekday specials. Hit it up for lunch & drip into dusk.
Zuni Cafe- It’s a classic for a reason. Don’t fall prey to ‘the new.’ Go here and slip into a timeless little afternoon with multiple courses, please.
Pizzeria Delfina- Also an oldie but a goodie. It’s very good!!!
LOS ANGELES
EAT:
Mori Sushi Make an early res, eat some of the most beautiful food of your life, get on a red-eye home. Win.
Fishing With Dynamite The best raw bar recipe: beautiful ocean light, fresh catch, great music & a sense of humor. Manhattan Beach.
Cora's Coffee Shop You can get tortilla soup for breakfast, and it's on the beach. Done & done. Santa Monica.
Capo Great cooking, great wine list, yummy deals to be found. Expensive? Yes. Delicious? Yup. Santa Monica.
Sushi Sasabune- Head here for lunch and trust them.
Angelini Osteria- You could easily be in Italy when you dine here. Same vibe, same great food. Classic as can be.
Sushi Tama- I ate here 3 times in 4 days. Order all of the shiny fish. Sit inside and chill or sit outside and watch Beverly Hills roll by. The fish is exquisite, the staff is casual but knowledgeable; it’s lovely. BUT THE FISH.
LAS VEGAS
EAT:
Lamaii Bank Atchawaran's new Thai spot. Trust everything he does from food to wine and you will thrive.
Lotus of Siam Yes, another Thai spot, and yes, worth it. Ask for the wine list.
Estiatorio Milos This place does the ocean right. It is a respectful bow to the riches of the ocean: how to let the fresh ingredients be, how not to fuck it up, how to serve sherry in the shrimp head. Nirvana.
STAY:
Cosmopolitan Vegas can hurt, but this place changes that stereotype. The rooms are sexy, the casino ain’t dodgy, and there’s great food: Milos (see below), Eggslut, Momofuku, Hattie’s B’s Hot Chicken…. But the best secret is the 3rd floor pizza joint that’s not listed. Don’t ever leave the hotel: see music here (we saw The Cure!), party here, eat pizza. Vegas is workable, trust us.
PHOENIX
EAT:
Pizzeria Bianco One of the OG Neopolitan pie joints in the US. Quaint and yummy.
PLAY:
Jerome Hit up this old mining town while driving from Phoenix to Prescott; old US history in tact.
MARFA
PLAY:
Donald Judd/ The Chinati Foundation Go look at what’s in the artillery sheds: one of the most moving art experiences in the world. Sh*t is bananas.
TEQUILA
STAY:
Hotel Solar de las Animas- This is the place to stay in Tequila if you want to feel like a movie star. There’s a rooftop pool, a lovely restaurant downstairs with an indoor fountain in the middle, and massive rooms where you feel like you’re on the set of Like Water for Chocolate. Yes, please.
PLAY:
Cantaritos el Guero- Outdoor bar on the side of the road mixing up the breakfast you’ll need when leaving Tequila to head to back to the airport.
La Capilla- One of the great bars on earth: not fancy, all soul. The signature drink (Batanga) is stirred with a steak knife.
MIAMI
EAT:
Japanese Market In a strip mall lives a Japanese Market . In the Market lives a tiny sushi bar in the corner. Walk to the back, grab a 16oz Sapporo, & wait til your name is called.
Mandolin Aegean Bistro Sit on the patio, eat with your hands, suck the bones.
Palmar- They call themselves a ‘moderne Chinese restaurant with a tropical vibe.’ Yes, please. Not to mention a rockin’ Champagne selection.
STAY:
SLS South Beach Eat on the patio, order the Embutido de Iberico & gazpacho for breakfast, along with a glass of Manzanilla.
PLAY:
Double Threat Fishing Charters Really cool, very capable kids with great equipment and moxie for days. #nofishissafe
Locust Projects The nexus of great young art in Miami.
NASHVILLE
EAT:
Robert’s Western World Sit at the bar, near the grill. Fried bologna sandwich, chips, American beer.
The Catbird Seat This is one of the spots that everyone knows about. There’s a reason. Bribe whomever necessary to get in.
Rolf & Daughters If you can’t get into Catbird, come here and console yourself with their on-point pastas.
STAY:
Union Station Hotel Nashville’s version of Grand Central as a hotel, along with day passes to an awesome gym. IT MATTERS. Genius.
CHARLESTON
EAT:
Leon’s Oysters, $2 Miller High Life Ponies and a good people-watching scene. Sit outside.
Xiao Bao When you’ve had your fill of pimento cheese and brown booze, come soak it all up with some beer and spice.
Go Fishing! Charter a local boat, grab a 12-pack and go fishing in the estuaries for red drum. A perfect Southern afternoon.
PHILADELPHIA
EAT:
Zahav Excellent Israeli food in a bustling, warm environs.
Vetri Date-night cute, fantastic service and food that makes you feel like you’re being deeply nourished.
Rooster Soup Co. 100% of profits go to support Philadelphia’s vulnerable citizens. The concept was dreamt up by Broad Street Ministry, who is doing some of the most admirable hospitality work on the planet: feeding those who need it most, and doing it with three course meals, warm service and great food: not soup kitchen simplicity. Rooster Soup Co. is everything you want out of a great diner, from a heart of pure gold.
PLAY:
Barnes Foundation Get out! Learn some things! Stroll through others’ ideas!
NEW YORK
EAT:
Hi-Collar This Place. Japanese cool writ over 1,000,000 times: tea during the day, sake at night, and perfect fried chicken sandwiches.
Joe Junior There aren’t many great diners left in NYC. Those gentrifying assholes are raising rents and putting in juice stores, which means our favorite Greek diners are getting the squeeze. Joe Junior hasn’t given in yet, and we are grateful for it. So much heart.
King A couple of women making excellent food with a wink towards Tuscany, a petite wine list, sun-flooded room, and lovely service. A reprieve when NYC threatens to eat your quiet.
Via Carota We love love love this place; the atmosphere is chic NYC bistro with shout-outs to Euro sensibilities, and the food is way better than you’d expect from a place so aware of how it looks.
Ilili Order Musar Blanc & ask for extra harissa.
Somtum Der You like spice and uber-umami?
Maison Premiere (BK) Champagne, oysters, and the best daiquiri in town.
Pasquale Jones- One of our favorite restaurants on planet earth. Spectacular pizza, thoughtful, complex salads alongside a great wine list and a crackin’ soundtrack.
Fausto- (BK) Joe Campanale’s spot, which means hospitality in spades, a thoughtful Italian list and great food.
Roberta’s- (BK) Yeah, you know about it already. It’s famous for a reason. Sometimes too cool for school on the service side, but you go for the food. Great pizza and really spectacular salads.
Buttermilk Channel- (BK) I hate brunch. But these guys do what can be a tiresome slog of soggy biscuits and hungover twenty-somethings really well. They also make good food the rest of the week! Good people here.
ABC Cocina- Not under the radar, not new. And yet we go here every time we’re in town. Really good margaritas, awesome hot sauce, and consistently yummy food.
Soho Diner- This place is fun af. It’s like an updated Peach Pit with truly good diner food. I’m not kidding. You’re welcome!
Ping’s- Hong Kong fare, which means a fantastic array of very exciting flavors, as well as some of the nicest service I’ve had in New York’s Chinatown.
Il Buco Alimentari- One of our favorite lunch spots in New York. Super fun wine list, excellent menu, great ambience and excellent service. A perfect spot to while away a wine-soaked lunch with friends.
Anton’s- Run, don’t walk! We hit up Anton’s every time we are in New York, oftentimes twice within a few days. The service is some of the sweetest in New York, the food is excellent (spaghetti anchoiade!), and there is plenty of delicious wine to drink. Great for lunch and dinner. Order an icebox martini and settle in.
Saigon Social - Vietnamese food from a classically French trained chef. Get one of everything on the menu.
Fini Pizza (BK) - Really good pizza in a stylish slice-lookin’ shop. Thin, crispy, classic NY pizza. The white is the choice.
Koloman - Located in the old Breslin space in the Ace Hotel, here we have delicately executed top tier Austrian food. Better than any I’ve had in Austria, to be honest. It’s fine food in a non-fine food room, which it turns out is a fabulous match. Have fun, laugh, be loud, eat like a queen.
Mountain House- Very good Szechuanese Cuisine on St. Marks. Unassuming, quiet, dark and quiet inside, very delicious.
Corner Bar- Located in the Nine Orchard Hotel, Corner Bar is a sexy space with a bunch of stylish money behind it. Great for high end snacks, a great burger (usually not listed on the menu, ask for it), and a chill moment away from the city.
STAY:
Ludlow Hotel Stay in a Skybox!
The Bowery Hotel - An oldie but a goodie, The Bowery still retains its very New York cool with a sexy lobby and low-key rooms with good views. Stay here for the service and the location.
PLAY:
Japan Premium Beef Pork chops and bacon WHAT. Butchery as beauty.(We bring it home in our carry-ons.)
New York Beach Ferry Explore the magic of NYC in summer, when water taxis are the jam, & the beach is only a beautiful boat ride away. BYOB
Attaboy In the OG Milk & Honey space; our favorite bar in NYC.
Dirty Precious (BK) First of all, it’s without a doubt the best name ever. Second, it’s owned by a firecracker of a woman, Katipai, who you’d be lucky to have tend the bar you’re sitting at. Third, great space, great selection of booze, sherry (!) and plenty of know-how without any star-tender drama.
169 Bar Looking for a great dive?
Central Park Lake: Row Boats! Picnic here. BYOB and BYOSunscreen.
BOSTON
EAT:
Neptune Oyster Worth the wait. Get everything on the menu.
Island Creek Oyster Bar Fresh-as-can-be oysters expertly shucked. Of course there’s other delicious East Coast treats (chowder, lobster rolls, etc) too, but those oysters… And a fun little list to boot.
Charlie’s Sandwich Shoppe Open since 1927, making diner-lovers swoon for the packed walls, the service and any and all kind of appropriate diner food you can dream up.
PLAY:
New England Aquarium Have a bottle and a dozen, stroll down to the piers if the weather is good, and enjoy what the majority of your planet actually looks like.
DETROIT
EAT:
Takoi Yup, went here twice in two days. Sometimes when you’re on the road, all you want is spicy Asian food to set you right, and this place answered our SOS calls.
STAY:
Foundation Hotel Housed in an old fire station, the rooms are lovely, the restaurant and bar scene downstairs are exactly what you want from a young hotel, and the people of Detroit are here to show you that Detroit is back, y’all.
PLAY:
MOCAD Head here for old-school ideas about art (they are great.)
Heidelberg Project Head here for new-school ideas about art (maybe even better.) This neighborhood was run down, gutted, dangerous. It was brought back from the brink with the creation of an outdoor museum, the Heidelberg Project. It made people see that they could take back something that felt broken and heal it, elevate it, make something beautiful out of it. It’s wonderful.
CHICAGO
EAT:
Spacca Napoli Pizzeria A little outside the city center, & very worth it. One of the best Italian restaurants in the country.
MFK Restaurant Sombra margaritas. Head-on prawns. Half of the restaurant is bar seating. Everything about this place feels right.
Cherry Circle Room Head here for old school luxury; wood paneled everything and a packed wine list.
Doves Luncheonette Diner alert!! Great diner alert!! (And great selection of agave spirits.)
STAY:
James Hotel They have a GREAT gym. In the world of lots of travel, you pledge allegiance to a place like this.
Virgin Hotel You know the brand, and you either love it or hate it. Personally, I care more about a great hotel room, and this place has it. Stylish; feels more like a fun sleepover than a work trip.
PLAY:
Public Barber Chic, dialed-in barber shop for that just so fade you’re lookin’ for.
COPENHAGEN
EAT:
Atelier September- You’re already visiting an expensive city; give in to it and order the very expensive, lovely avocado toast and green tea and sigh a great big yummy bougie sigh.
Manfred’s Cafe- They harvest from their own garden and the vegetables are beautiful. They’ve also got a killer steak tartare and a superfun natty wine list. Great for lunch!
Sankt Peder- The best option for smorrobrod, beer and saucy service. This place is our favorite. And no, there is no set menu or natty wine, so don’t even ask.
Barr- Located in the old Noma space (read: on the water and lovely), head here for the best schnitzel presentation ever and some very delicious local beer.
Kanalen- Excellent location on the canals, lovely food and a great wine list.
Anarki- Bistro style menu with a wine list peppered with gems.
STAY:
Nobis Hotel- Well appointed, quiet, extremely civil.
PLAY:
GoBoat- Rent a boat, pack a picnic and GO!
AMSTERDAM
EAT:
Rijsel This is our jam. The ideal wine dinner: roast chicken, greens and fried potatoes alongside a super well-priced, well-stocked list and great service.
Gebr. Hartering- On one of the most idyllic, picturesque canal corners in town, the Brothers Hartering offer an ever-changing, fantastic set menu with a killer wine list.
Proeflokaal Kef - Take the Buiksloterweg ferry from Station Centraal to Noord (free 2.5 minute trip) and ride or walk here for a bang-up selection of cheese and a few beers and wines to pair with it.
Cafe Moderne Take the Buiksloterweg ferry fromStation Centraal to Noord and ride or walk here for a great lunch (there aren’ many great lunch spots in Amsterdam) or for a romantic diner. Great food and natural wine.
Bar Pif- Super chill natural wine bar with tasty snacks. Open for lunch. Their sister spot, Alex & Pinard, is also great.
The Lobby Fizeaustraat- Slightly out of town, totally worth the Uber or bike jaunt. The food is great and the wine list will reward your travel.
Sichuan Food- They've been open for 34 years, run by the same family. Best Peking Duck menu we know of. Tell Raymond we sent you.
Si-Chuan Chinese- Yes, there are two of these on our list, no, they are not related. Our favorite Chinese food outside of Singapore.
Zoldering- One of the best wine lists in town alongside a fantastic a la carte menu. Highly recommended.
Cafe Parlotte- Also one of the best wine lists in town. Located in the Jordaan, go when it’s warmer and sit outside. Excellent food.
Bambino- Sister to Bak (also on our list), a casual lunch spot with lots of good natural wine and delicious food. Open for lunch.
Sagardi- When Spain can’t come to you, go here for excellent Basque food. Open for lunch.
Bussia- Great for lunch. A quiet little cafe with good food and great bakery items, all done in house.
101 Gowrie- Very chic, higher-end ambiance and a fantastic menu with a fresh take on Japanese cuisine through an international eye. Sounds weird. It’s excellent.
Beulings- There are so many set menus in Amsterdam, but this place actually pulls it off well. Stylish af room, great service, compelling menu and a little shocker of a wine list.
Sinck - Very good food, a great wine list, and when it’s warm out, one of the best canal cafes. And Komos!
Toscanini- Classy little cafe with proper Italian food (their spring vegetables are great) and a wine list with some fun nuggets if you take a moment to flip through.
De Kas- Slightly further out of town, a great place to spend a languid afternoon in the greenhouse-feeling space with a veggie-heavy set menu and plenty of Cotat.
BAK- Located in a seemingly non-descript industrial building, head upstairs to find yourself overlooking the river IJ. There is no beef, pork or chicken served, although you may find pigeon or deer, as they only use wild meats. Other than a course of meat, all else is vegetable-focused. Great Champagne options as well as natural wines.
Cafe de Dokter- Founded in 1798 and run by the same family for 6 generations. Sure, they have beer, they also have a fun selection of whiskies and a large hunk of cheese and house made smoked ox sausage. The smallest bruin cafe in town, literally dripping in cobwebs and lore.
De Wildeman- If you’ a beer-head, this is your spot. Ever-changing taps as well as a list of ~250 bottled beers. This crew knows their beer; they have decanting baskets for their sour beers. Get schooled here.
Arendsnest beer service here is on point; they also pair meats & cheeses with all their beers. Ask for advice & let them show you the goods.
Cafe Gollem selection of local beers on tap with a few locations around town.
Black Gold- Great coffee on the West side of town.
Toki- Great coffee on the East side of town.
H. Murray’s- A sneaky, stylish, low-key wonderful corner bar in the oldest part of Amsterdam owned by twin brothers. The vibe is top-notch and so is the location.
STAY:
Hotel Pulitzer- Consisting of 25 connecting canal houses: great rooms, super chic, excellent (public!) central gardens and comfy cocktail bar when the cool months have you reaching for boozy comfort.
The Lobby at Hotel V on Nes- The hotel rooms are great, and the restaurant is another one of our favorite lunch spots. Plush interiors, yummy food and a welcoming staff has made us regulars. The sister restaurant at Fizeaustraat has a more formal menu and a deeper wine list. Both are great.
Soho House- If you’ a member, great! Otherwise make friends with one and hit the best view of the city possible, poolside, with a cocktail.
PLAY:
Sloepdelen Zipcar of canal boats. How they allow someone to anonymously ‘’ a boat, pick it up, & drive themselves around in a city with a very lenient consumption policy is mind-blowing. Take advantage before they realize this & shut it down.
Admiraal Heijn- We’ booked the Admiraal Heijn boat countless times; it’ private, you have your own skipper, and you can navigate where you want to go. And of course bring whatever beverages and snacks you like. Tell Judy Carla sent you.
Sauna Deco place is decked out in the salvaged Art Deco pieces of the old Au Bon Marche, & you get to walk around naked. What else is there to say?
Cafe de Wetering - One of the best bars in town. Chill, away from the red light and all that mess, and with a huge fireplace in winter. Bring some cards and settle in.
Cafe t’Mandje- Opened in 1927 by a lesbian named Aunt Bet, Cafe t’ is our go-to queer bar with super positive, cuddly, beer-loving vibes.
Bar Exit- Our favorite LGBTQ dance club; dive-bar-feeling, open late, welcoming to everyone… we’ see you there. Their sister spot next door, Nyx, leans more towards a clubby feel if you’ not feelin’ the chill dive vibe.
Soho House- If you’ a member, great! Otherwise make friends with one and hit the best view of the city possible, poolside, with a cocktail.
A’dam Tower- Head over to Noord on the super-quick free ferry and visit the Lookout on top floors of the A’ building. The view over Amsterdam is amazing, and you can ride swings that fling you over the edge of the building.
W Hotel W Lounge- If you don’ feel like taking a ferry, take an elevator to the top floor of the W Hotel and view Amsterdam from there.
I AMsterdam- Want to move here? Not sure when trash pick-up is? Wondering what is going on in town today? It's all there.
PARIS
EAT:
Le Petit Verdot Japanese sensibilities meet French cuisine; great wine list.
Clamato Septime’s little brother, and by far the superior child. Fried whole fish & Champagne.
Le Dome Go for the bouillabaisse & learn a thing or two about fish service.
Le Repaire des Cartouche Dark, cozy, soulful French cooking.
Bistrot Paul Bert Best bistro in the world, hands down. Patina, great food, super fun wine list.
L’Ecailler du Bistrot Paul Bert’s next door seafood joint, ask for the Paul Bert wine list.
Le Baratin Great.
Le Dauphin- Rem Kolhaas-designed bar with delicious food and achingly cool vibe.
L’Ami Louis- Like an old school French bistro with the prices and flavors turned up to 11. Extremely curt service, but GREAT classic French cuisine, à la frogs legs and escargots.
L’Ambroisie- You will pay for it, and you will love it. Exquisite everything. But not silly prix fixe super touched food; this is the best restaurant and the best service in Paris in our opinion. Get anything with truffles. Richard literally cried with joy when we ate here. Exceptional.
Vantre- Amazing wine list being taken care of by an excellent wine team with real passion for what they do. What a treat! Very good food as well.
Les Arlots- Unpretentious service, a wine card packed with things to discover, and seriously outstanding food. Have a glass at their next door Billili before or after.
La Cagouille- It can be hard to find a good place to eat on Sunday in Paris. Good thing la Cagouille keeps its doors open so you can bathe in their beautiful seafood items. Best in summer, when you can sit outside, but no less delicious in winter.
Kodawari Tsukiji - Outstanding ramen theater. All fish-based broth; exceptional flavors in a super-fun recreation of Japan’s famous Tsukiji Fish Market.
Enyaa - Refined Japanese food with a fabulous Sake and Champagne list.
Nodaiwa - The grilled freshwater eel is the star here, with a recipe that’s been in the family for 5 generations. Served in a peaceful, relaxed atmosphere, this is a perfect lunch spot.
Shang Palace at the Shangri La. Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant with excellent service, food, wine list and room. Old school romance.
Arpege - 3 Michelin-starred vegetable-forward fine dining. Full stop. Delicate, delicious, fun, highly recommended.
Le Servan- What a lovely treat this place is! Superfun flavors, beautiful vegetables, a light-filled room when the doors are thrown open, and good wine to boot.
STAY:
Relais Saint Germain Sexy rooms hovering over a great bistro & fantastic wine and snack bar.
Hotel Bourg Tibourg- Super cute hotel tucked into a side street, lovely staff and romantic, tiny little Parisian boudoir-style rooms.
Hotel Costes - Sister to the cute and quiet Hotel Bourg Tibourg in the Marais, Hotel Costes is the sleek sibling with a bustling restaurant and ultra sexy rooms.
PLAY:
Candelaria In case you need your agave fix in Paris.
BASQUE COUNTRY
EAT:
Asador Etxebarri You have no idea. The mountain view, the smoke, the simple, perfect food… worth the country drive to the middle of nowhere.
Elkano Love letter to turbot. In spring the anchovy are chased into the bay by the turbot, then the turbot taste like anchovy. There is the sun-side, and the sand-side, and they both taste very different… You will learn A TON. SP
MANTUA
EAT:
Dal Pascatore- Tucked in to the countryside among animals and grasses lies this Michelin 3-star joint. Excellent everything.
HONG KONG
EAT:
Hong Kong Old Restaurant The smoked chicken (must order a few days ahead) will be one of the best things you’ve ever eaten. Shanghai Cuisine.
Luk Yu Tea House If Hong Kong had a mafia (& they may), this would be their hangout. Don’t let the lovely Art Deco facade fool you. And don’t let those punky waiters get in your grill. The world is yours. Dim Sum.
LockCha Tea House Located in Hong Kong Park, this is the coolest place ever to learn about tea… Great selection of teas as well as food made to go with them.
Spring Deer Restaurant The best Peking Duck of your life. BYOB
STAY:
Intercontinental On the Kowloon side, overlooking the entire HK harbor. Exceptional service.
BAROSSA
EAT:
FermentAsian She cooks SE Asian cuisine, he runs the room & a super dope wine list. Fantastic.
Fino Go here for lunch, eat very well & drink lots of sherry. Then visit Seppeltsfield (see below.)
Apex Bakery Longest running (c.1924) continuously fired oven in OZ. Pasties!!
Casa Carboni- We can’t recommend this place highly enough. Open most mornings and days, with a Friday night dinner option available. Book the Friday dinner. Ask Matteo (husband and Chef) what to drink, as he imports the wines he carries, and tell both he and Fiona (wife, hostess) that we sent you. LOVE.
PLAY:
Tanunda Hotel The TH. Best Cooper’s Pale you’ll ever have. Order a bag of Salt & Vinegar crisps & play pool.
Seppeltsfield Winery With port from every vintage going back to 1878, prepare to be impressed.
TUCSON
EAT:
Mariscos Chihuahua Best Mexican food in Tucson, maybe Arizona. It’s all about the seafood cocktails & LOTS of hot sauce.
The Little One Open for breakfast and lunch, bustling little cafe where the owner insists on a hug before you go. It’s heart-healthy livin’ here.
El Charo All about the carne seca.
STAY:
Hotel Congress What The Chelsea must’ve been like before it wasn’t itself anymore.
Arizona Inn Extreme old Hollywood glamor still alive at this place. The pool and the croquet lawns, the ping pong and the afternoon tea… it’s a slice of a simpler time.
PLAY:
Sonoran Desert Museum Cooler than you could possibly imagine.
TULUM
EAT:
Ka’an- Drive South past the Tulum scrum to reach this haven in the middle of a nature preserve: silent but for waves, exceptional food, and your feet in the sand. Perfect.
Kitchen Table- Drive North away from Tulum, and reach the archeological preserve, where you sit outdoors in the most unique restaurant layout imaginable, enjoying absolutely fantastic food. We went twice in 24 hours.
MEXICO CITY
EAT:
Contramar- The Balthazar of the DF; the place to be seen. The room is hoppin’, the crowd is flush, and the food is bangin’. Make a reservation.
Pujol- First: make a reservation. It’s high end, it’s a set menu, and while we generally won’t recommend those, this place blew us away.. The final dish was a dollop of new mole set on top of a dollop of aged mole (somewhere in the 1,000’s of days when we were there). It made us silent. It arrested us. We adore this place. (The chef, Enrique Olvera, also has Eno for those of you wanting something more chill: breakfast, casual lunch, tamales.)
Yakumanka Insanely good Peruvian food- we went there twice in 24 hours. EXCELLENT seafood.
Pizza Felix When you’re tired of tacos head here. Super chill, yummy, and open Sunday nights (not many things are.)
STAY:
Hotel Condesa DF- One of our favorite hotel experiences: centrally located yet peaceful, stylish rooms… you feel your ‘city shoulders’ relax when you walk in the door after having been out all day.
PLAY:
QI Wellness Center & Gym- The gym you wish you could carry with you when you travel (and you get free passes when you stay at the Hotel Condesa.)
OAXACA
EAT:
Marco Polo Awesome hidden patio, oven-baked seafood. Micheladas.
Itanoni A love letter to corn.
Casa Oaxaca You want the one within the hotel (see below.) It is GREAT.
Pitiona- Lovely food, wonderful quiet, peaceful indoor patio, nice mezcal service.
Criollo Enrique Olvera, the same chef as Pujol in DF and Cosme in NYC, creates a chic dining space with thoughtful food.
STAY:
Casa Oaxaca You may decide to travel to Oaxaca just to stay here. Pool, silence, micheladas, fantastic service.
BORDEAUX
EAT:
La Tupina As you walk in, there are potatoes being roasted over an open fire, which is connected to a system of pulleys, fuelling the spit which is roasting birds… It’s great.
L’Univerre You’re welcome.
STAY:
Maison Fredon After lunch at La Tupina, retire to their insanely chic rooms across the street.
DALLAS
EAT:
Tei-An Dallas is big & broad. Tei-An is the opposite. Ask them to pair Japanese whisky with your food.
Sachet- Go here! Really delicious food with Lebanese hints and a wine list that is made for the food. Great.
STAY:
Hotel Zaza These are sprinkled throughout Texas, and while they are kinda tacky and bridal party trashy, the Dallas location as a great gym and the bungalows are like having your own apartment.
AUSTIN
EAT:
Olamaie We can’t speak highly enough of this place; the team and the food are exceptional, and it feels like home every time we return.
STAY:
Hotel San Jose One of the most stylish hotels in the country.
PLAY:
Half Step If you find the food trucks & want a cocktail nearby, this is the place.
Midnight Cowboy NYC cocktail-stylee.
HOUSTON
EAT:
Mala Sichuan Bistro One of the best Chinese restaurants in the country, in our opinion. BYOB
PLAY:
West Alabama Ice House Get a buzz on here...
Cy Twombly Gallery at The Menil Collection ...then visit here.
BOLOGNA
EAT:
Osteria la Traviata- This place is exactly what you want in an Italian bistro: kids running around, family in and out of the kitchen, excellent tortellini in brodo and whatever red they’re serving by the carafe.
LIGURIA
EAT:
Locanda Conchiglia d’Oro- When you’re driving from Piedmont to France or Spain, stop here. Or make a side-trip like we do to visit this place: it’s that good.
FLORENCE
EAT:
PLAY:
ROME
EAT:
Costanza Hostaria Hidden down a few side streets, all about the fish and veg.
La Campana Rome’s oldest restaurant (c.1518) Very staid, very delicious.
Forno Campo de Fiori- Roman pizza: long, crispy pies with the most glorious tomato sauce you’ve ever had… for breakfast, snacks, lunch and dinner. Get the Marinara. Then cruise the farmer’s market in the Plaza- complete Roman heaven.
STAY:
Hotel Locarno Art Deco masterpiece, great patio, away from the noise & bustle.
PLAY:
Sant’Eustachio Get a shakerato, feel like you’re in a movie.
ADELAIDE
EAT:
Peel St. Restaurant- Always reliable, easy and friggin’ yummy. Hit it up.
Chianti- I’m not gonna lie; sometimes after weeks of harvest, you want a white tablecloth, Italian wine and some fiori di zucca, and the welcoming service makes it real easy to slip into a long, relaxing lunch.
Golden Boy- When you’re ready for something other than pasties, Cooper’s Pale and BBQ, hit this place up for some spicy Thai.
Parwana Afghan Kitchen- Please go here! What heart! What warm, welcoming, fun energy with super satisfying food. Wish there were more restaurants with this vibe.
Summertown Aristologist- Located in Adelaide Hills, we go here weekly while in the Barossa for harvest. Excellent, nuanced food with a subtle Japanese touch. Very good. Some natty wine, too.
STAY:
The Franklin Hotel Huge rooms, great style, super affordable.
PLAY:
Clever Little Tailor Many choices on Peel St, we suggest this one.
MCLAREN VALE
EAT:
Salopian Inn- Come for the vineyards, check out the ocean, and eat here. Delicious food in an unassuming little spot, great for a break from wine tasting and hot sun.
SYDNEY
EAT:
Otto Ristorante Campari & Soda. Bottle of Vermentino. Whole fish. Sit on the pier outside, bask.
Golden Century There are tanks lining the walls with mud crabs bigger than small children, & a wine list filled with back vintages of Barossa Shiraz & Bordeaux. Makes sense.
One Penny Red- One of our favorite spots in Sydney; quiet neighborhood, excellent food, warm service and a crackin’ local wine list.
Chat Thai- When you get off the plane and your world is upside down, head here for cold beer, spicy food and a healthy dose of funky fish-sauce based food. Medicine.
Mary’s- Burgers and chickens, natural wine, heavy metal.
Love Tilly Devine- Super lovely wine bar, down a little alley, yummy small plates, cute as hell.
Lord Nelson Brewery & Hotel- Home of Australia’s oldest pub brewery, great beer, crisps, hotel rooms and happiness.
Saint Peter- If you love fish, go here. Really special food with caring service.
Yellow- Vegetarian and interesting. Casual, energized atmosphere and a fun little wine list.
STAY:
Ovolo at Woolloomooloo- Our favorite place to stay in Sydney, hands down. Great rooms overlooking Woolloomooloo wharf and the Botanical Gardens, right above Otto.
Establishment Hotel- If you'd like to stay somewhere in the CBD, we like it here. Super cool vibe, quiet rooms, great breakfast and bar space.
PLAY:
Take the Manly Fast Ferry to Bondi to enjoy a lunch at Icebergs, a massage overlooking the wild salt pool (with Bondi waves crashing in), and a break from the city.
MELBOURNE
EAT:
Tipo OO- Charming little spot with fresh, light Italian food and a fun wine list.
Cumulus Up- We prefer the wine bar above their sister spot Cumulus. Great menu, very good wine list and a chic vibe.
Butcher’s Diner- Open 24 hours. Great burgers. Half bottles of Champagne. Done.
Bar Liberty- This place has an incredibly fun beverage list and outstanding food. Can’t recommend it highly enough.
*Coffee*
Patricia- The most complete service operation we’ve ever seen. From the moment you enter til you exit, it’s a flawless movement of hospitality, efficiency and the best coffee we’ve ever had.
STAY:
QT Hotel- Our go-to for a stylish hotel with quiet rooms in the center of the CBD. Walking distance to pretty much anywhere you’d want to eat, drink and explore.
SAN SEBASTIÁN
EAT:
Ibai Still have yet to go…
Saltxipi Get the spider crab & roll up your sleeves; every single part of the crab is divine.
Rekondo That wine list tho.
Ganbara Mushrooms upon mushrooms.
The Loaf Your best bet at getting a decent coffee in all of Spain. Gros district.
Borda Berri - For hot pintxos- Their salmorejo and beef cheeks were fantastic, and a nice break from typical pintxos on bread.
Ganbara - While this is a pintxo bar, request to sit downstairs, where you’ll receive a more thorough menu with lovely service, and a chill moment among all the pintxo madness back upstairs.
La Viña - Go for dessert: Basque cheesecake. Excellent.
Gandarias - One of the great classics, with all of the great sherries by the glass.
BARCELONA
EAT:
Bar Cañete We’d eat here every single day if we could.
La Boqueria Sure, you can walk the market, but the real deal are the restaurants inside the market. Bustling, fresh, delicious.
Cal Pep- You’ve probably heard of it. Gotta queue up early, they can be a salty bunch, it’s a show, etc. But it’s also really good, and probably what Barrafina in London is based on, and we absolutely love it.
Estimar- If you like fish and don’t mind spending for it, this place is very worth it. Everything is so very beautiful.
Casa Mari i Rufo- This is not so terribly different from many other places in Barcelona, but with a few less tourists, and truly great food. Sit up at the bar and take in the fracas.
Bar Brutal - Extremely lively, super fun, great food: this is what I want out of a natural wine bar. Love this place. Their sister restaurant Xemei, serving Venetian food, is a lovely place to spend an outdoor afternoon lunch over multiple vermuts.
Ca’l Isidre - You know we love fine dining when it’s got some age on it (opened in 1970), when it’s not precious, and when you feel as relaxed in the dining room as if in a bistro, but it also kinda feels a little reverential in the sweetest way. We came to tears here over the service, the absolute care from the team, and the simple deliciousness of the food. Catalan cuisine.
Ultramarinos Marin - This is one of the sexiest little spots we’ve been to in a long time. Opened recently, but with deeply chic taste, it feels like a bustling diner in front, and in back, a dark and cozy room with an open grill and wood burning oven. All of this and they only serve breakfast and lunch! But this ain’t a brunch joint (thank heavens), this is a seriously delicious but casual spot that feels like they’ve hit the lottery on all fronts.
La Cova Fumada - Opened in 1944, and feels like time has forgotten about this place. It’s perfect. Crowded, as casual as can be, inexpensive, fast, super delicious, perfect. Catalan cuisine.
PLAY:
Vila Viniteca - The website makes it look like only a wine shop, don’t be fooled. This is one of the most impressive collections of tinned and preserved products. all of the highest quality. Awesome array of jamon and all of the Spanish cheese you could hope for. Stock up here en route home, or just move to Barcelona to shop here.
MADRID
EAT:
La Dolores Best Mahou on tap in Spain alongside the best anchovy snack in the world. No music overhead; just the clinking of glasses, laughter, & that beer...
La Venencia Old-school, 1930’s-style bar with nothin’ but a few Sherries, a few tapas, a very friendly cat, & all the soul you could hope for. Do not tip (seriously.)
La Posada de la Villa Since 1642, & you believe it when you walk in. The spirit of the place lives in the service, the food, & a great Spanish wine list. Order the Pimientos del Piquillo & fall in love with simplicity.
O'Pazo One of the great fish joints on the planet. We went for lunch & immediately thereafter asked for a reservation for dinner that night.
Taberna Palo Cortado- If you feel like you’re swimming in a sea of Rioja in Madrid, this is your Sherry life raft. Great list with the food you want to go with it.
Taberna Laredo- What a place. I wish this existed in Amsterdam. You’re going to have to figure out what they’re good at on your own- can’t give too much away, you understand.
García de la Navarra- That old Rioja list: that’s the thing.
Cuenllas- Great little restaurant with a great little wine shop next door.
SEVILLA
EAT:
Bar Eslava Excellent tapas, both traditional & modern.
El Rinconcillo Oldest restaurant in Spain (c.1670); Sevilla’s version of McSorley’s.
Bar las Golondrinas (1) Head across the bridge to take in this traditional tapas spot, decorated in painted tiles: the specialty in Triana.
Alvaro Peregil - You know the deal, they don’t have a website, they don’t even have a Facebook page. Just go. Old school, too-bright lighting, delicious food. Have a few dishes here, then head down the block to Bodega Santa Cruz and have a few more copitas of Sherry and a few more tapas.
PLAY:
Real Alcazar - If you travel all the way to Sevilla and don’t know about this place, well, that’d be something. While I’m not generally a religious-site kinda girl, this place is worth the trip. The Moorish tiling and the gardens alone are worth your time.
JEREZ
EAT:
Cruz Blanca Sit outside, watch Jerez cruise by, drink gazpacho.
Bar Juanito Order Valdespino Inocente. Order another. Have some jamon.
La Moderna Great for breakfast or tapas; head to the back to see part of the old city wall, tucked inside the restaurant’s interior.
La Carboná Steak. Steak. Steak.
SANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDA
EAT:
Casa Bigote After eating all of the seafood you can, head out to the boardwalk for some gin-tonics & the sunset.
Casa Balbino Tortillitas de camarones. Jamon. Sherry. Give thanks.
El Campero A temple built to tuna. There is even a map of the body; turns out you can eat every single piece of it.
PLAY:
Taberna der Guerrita Fantastic bar with tapas up front (run by the dad)...
La Sacristía ... And the best sherry shop in the world in back (run by the son.)
EL PUERTO DE SANTA MARÍA
EAT:
Aponiente The best wine-paired menu ever; it’s brilliant (you can even have an entirely sherry-paired meal.)
El Faro Still have yet to go...
CÁDIZ
EAT:
Cumbres Mayores Extensive menu of traditional tapas & a fun list of sherry.
STAY:
Parador Hotel Atlantico On the tip of old Cadiz, overlooking the ocean.
DENVER
EAT:
Tavernetta- The casual sister to Frasca in Boulder, Tavernetta is located in Union Station, the train station in the center of Denver. Great vibe, excellent food, and killer wine.
Cart Driver- Excellent pizza and spritzes located in an old shipping container.
Hop Alley- Chinese focused menu that ranges all over Asia, served alongside a strong hip hop soundtrack.
D’Corazon’s- Mexican food to hit the spot served with margaritas and no pretense.
Little Owl Coffee- Great coffee, great vibe.
Tavernetta- Bobby Stuckey’s Denver babies, both Tavernetta and Sunday Vinyl hit the spot every single time. Tavernetta has got your Italian yum, and Sunday Vinyl has the snacks you always want but never have the ingredients for (ahem, anchovy toast.). Not to mention Carlin Karr, who has you covered on the wine front- this team is A++.
STAY:
The Crawford Hotel- Located in Union Station, the rooms are a throwback to the old culture of train travel. The train station is bustling and having one last cocktail on the third floor of the train station overlooking it all at the end of the night is a treat.
NEW ORLEANS
EAT:
Clancy’ We go here every chance we get. Last time we went twice in as many days. If it’ in season get the smoked soft shell crab, it’ insane. This place is one of the greats.
Felix’ Oyster Bar Because the guys shucking.
Camellia Grill BLT. Coffee. Diner culture. Holy Trinity.
Galatoire’ Bar & Steak Yes, Galatoire’ for the Friday lunch is the scene in town. It’ fun as *** and packed. So head next door to their 33 Bar for something a tad more chill with just as much old-wood and white tablecloth charm.
Domilise's Po’ Nuff said.
PLAY:
ACE Hotel Like any ACE anywhere, the rooms are sparse, a little dark, and very hip. But the vibe is cool and there’ a rooftop pool and bar.
Bacchanal Grab a bottle of wine from the shop, find a seat outside, order your food, bus your own table. Genius.
RALEIGH
EAT:
TASMANIA
EAT:
Franklin- Fresh, imaginative food in a sleek, industrial hip space.
Templo- Italian-ish small plates, lovely atmosphere. Order the entire menu.
STAY:
Henry Jones Art Hotel- Plush, quirky, excellent location on Hobart Bay.
PLAY:
MONA- One of the best museum experiences we’ve ever had. You get there by boat (ask for the Posh Pit tickets- you’ll get to drink Tazzie bubbles while cruising to the museum), and are transported to the world of the museum… spend all day here snacking in the cafe, playing, imagining, staying for dinner in the restaurant if it suits you… It’ll blow your mind.
PIEDMONT
EAT:
Osteria Bottaglino- THE TRUFFLES. Also the pasta.
Tra Arte e Querce- The owner heads out with his truffle dogs and forages what will become one of your favorite meals. From the top of a hill there’ a lovely view, the room is warm and homey, and the truffles.
Le Case della Saracca- If you’ staying at Villa Beccaris, walk downhill and find this tucked-into-a-stone-edifice wine bar. Super chic.
STAY:
Villa Beccaris- If you’ looking for that just so place to stay on your dreamy Piedmontese tour, we found it for you.
BYRON BAY
EAT:
Paper Daisy- Great lunch stop on your way from the airport to Byron Bay. Light and airy, near the water, clean food and a fun wine list.
Di Vino- Charming little Italian spot with small plates, good wine, and great service.
Rae’s at Wategos- Sexy little restaurant attached to a sexy little hotel perched on a perfect outcropping looking over Wategos Bay. Real cute.
Harvest- We took a scenic drive to Newrybar just to eat here: inventive, casual, delicious as can be.
Shoal Bay Country Club- When driving from Byron to Sydney, stop here for lunch. The food is fine, but the view is amazing, and there’s a great little walk over to an open ocean bay with a view to Shark Island. Not a soul was there, and the place is stunning.
STAY:
Victoria’s at Wategos- Right up the hill from Rae’s, less ‘cute and sexy’, more ‘refined and mature.’ Good apartment as a jump-off point.list.
Promised Land Resort- Stop here for a night when on the road from Byron to Sydney. Located in Glennifer, right outside Bellingen. It’s a little off the beaten path, and you will thank us for it. More open, green space and wild birds than we’ve ever seen in Australia.
LONDON
EAT:
The Ivy - This place is made to feel like you’re prancing around, dripping in luxury, living the high life. Go for the vibe. You do pay a bit for it, but maybe someone else will pay for you if you’re lucky.
Brasserie Zédel - A great late night option when you need that second dinner post-partying. Big bistro feels with a big bistro menu.
Barrafina - We LOVE this place. Classic Spanish bar dining, chefs right across from you, insanely satisfying food, great sherry, and very cold beer on tap. Be aware of the queue.
River Cafe - Classic for a reason. Clean, classic Italian with soul.
Gymkhana - Very very good Indian.
Kiln - Obsessed. Deep, funky Northern Thai food served from clay ovens.
BRAT - Bang-up Basque food from a very talented kitchen crew. Thoughtful, cared-for, crush-worthy food.
Noble Rot - This place is run by cool people, they put out a cool wine ‘zine carrying the same name, and they’re always packed with stylish guests. Oh and what a wine list.
China Tang - Relaxed service in an old school atmosphere with fun wine and Cantonese worth returning for once every London trip.
Bob Bob Ricard - You may think the super chic room and the tableside Champagne button are harbingers of mediocre food, but you’d be wrong. Sexy! Delicious! Fun!
The Barbary - ‘Our menu reflects the countries from the Atlantic Coast through to the Mediterranean Sea leading to the Middle East.’ It’s wordy, but the food is exciting.
Rochelle Canteen - Chef Margot Henderson (wife of Fergus Henderson of Saint John, where you should also pay a visit) feeds people well and fully. The patio is lovely, there’s a calming garden space, and you walk away feeling deeply nourished.
Cadet - I’ve been disappointed by the vast majority of wine bars across the planet, so I was hesitant to dive in head first when a friend suggested this place. Dead wrong, Carla. The food is exceptional! So finely executed, beautiful sauces, a bright, welcoming space. The wine is not the thing here, it is the food. And it’s worth the journey.
Sweeting’s- A London institution for over 100 years, this place feels like many top-hatted gentlemen have dined on classic British seafood here, sucking down oysters and pints of cask ale. Just what I want in a lunch spot.
Mountain- From the team that brought you Kiln (one of our favorite London spots) and Brat, Mountain somehow shows even more cooking panache than Kiln’s Thai or Brat’s Basque. The menu is not obviously tied to any cuisine, with offerings that sound familiar enough from other menus you’ve seen but done at a much higher level. Delicious, hip, sweet corner locale, a fantastic little restaurant.
STAY:
Hotel l’Oscar - Conveniently located and quiet, these super comfy, large rooms are outfitted in lush, decadent colors and textures. Perfect for chilly weather and snuggling in.
Chiltern Firehouse - Andre Balazs knows how to create a cracking space with sex appeal, chic as can be, that kind of make-you-feel-famous just by renting a room kind of magic. Fireplaces in some of the rooms, a sunken bar area packed with beautiful people, over-the-top service, all located on a surreal little street in Maryleborne that feels like a movie set. This is the West Village of London.
PLAY:
Bradley’s Spanish Bar - This is a sweet little dive bar that we stumbled in to watch some football, eat crisps from the deli across the street, and consume many beers. I guess what I’m saying is that this is listed here due to very personal reasons. We hope you love it, too.
BERLIN
EAT:
Borchardt- Old school brasserie peopled with upper-crust types who are a pleasure to take in while you enjoy your air-light, perfect schnitzel.
Otto- Great food! To look at it, you may think we’ve gone soft and are leaning toward tweezer food, but trust us- they know what they’re doing, and the food is righteous.
Mrs. Robinson’s- Casual spot with fun food and an easy-going wine list.
Paris Bar- You go to drip into the old banquettes, order the sole for lunch and drink no-name Sancerre. You go for the vibe. Yves Saint Laurent’s old haunt, and that should be enough for you, too.
Henne- OH MY!!! Heaven. Again, old school af, no cutlery provided, great beer and extremely juicy half-chickens.
Duc Anh Quan- If you’re comfortable riding your bike out East to a random warehouse-looking area for barebones lunch, you will be rewarded with excellent Vietnamese food here.
STAY:
Hotel Oderberger- Located in an old bath house in a super sweet neighborhood with clean, bright, minimal rooms and a stunning indoor pool.
BUENOS AIRES
EAT:
Casa Cavia- Very stylish, upscale restaurant with a beautiful library, a peaceful garden and exceptional food.
Cafe La Biela- BA’s version of a diner; head here for a fix-up after a long night.
Orilla- Fernando Trocca is at the helm here, and the food is fantastic.
PLAY
Verne Club- Super-tight cocktail bar under the guidance of the very knowledgeable, very able Fede Cuco. You will love him.
Cafe San Bernardo- To find a place like this while in a new city is like unearthing a gold nugget. Bright fluorescent lighting, sweaty kids playing competitive ping pong, pool and foosball along greasy French fries. Heaven!
Strange Brewing- Two Norwegian young men who initially headed to Stanford, then decided to take a road trip down to Argentina, where they set up shop making truly great beer. Some of the best craft beer we’ve ever had, and we don’t typically love the stuff.
SINGAPORE
EAT:
Imperial Treasure Super Peking Duck - It’s the one inside Paragon on Orchard Road. We were told to go here by a Singaporean friend who knows food. Get a private room in the back, order everything.
Hainanese Delicacy - On Scott’s Road. Small, packed into an upper floor of an indoor shopping mall, aluminum plates, no frills, wonderful.
Tea Chapter - Grab a table, take a break from the heat or the crowds, sit in silence and learn something about tea.
Ushidoki Wagyu Kaiseki - Excellent wagyu in a very beautiful, upscale locale.
Lei Garden - Chijmes location. To this day, maybe the best Chinese food we’ve ever had. Slow-cooked goose foot remains at the top of the list as a mind-blowingly beautiful, delicate, soulfully deep dish.
Summer Pavilion - Head here when you’re after the opposite of hawker stalls, vibe-wise. Michelin 1-star, beautifully plated Cantonese dishes and calm, discreet service.
San Shu Gong Dining - Blow-your-mind-good Teochew food. Book in advance, and arrive hungry. Pre-order the cold crab, warm crab, and ask about the Bombay Duck fish as well as the oyster omelet. Allow Roy, the owner and chef, to suggest whatever he wants; it was one of the great restaurant experiences ever for us; flavors we’d never had, perfectly executed. We went back the next night as well. If you feel like you can handle it, bring a few bottles of sherry as well (aged Manzanilla and Fino, Amontillado, Palo Cortado.) They pair stunningly well.
Eng Seng First Grade Seafood Restaurant - We haven’t been here, but a friend of ours who lives in Singapore and who knows food says it’s the best Chili Crab in town, so thought we’d share that gem.
PLAY:
Botanical Gardens- Visit them! Walk around! Run! Pet dogs!!
STOCKHOLM
EAT:
Sturehof- Classic raw bar with a very good Champagne list. Sit in the bar and chill out.
Babette- The quintessential cute af restaurant serving great food with a lovely wine list in a charming-as-can-be nook.
Restaurant AG- This is your meat fix option. You walk up a dark stairway in to what feels like a butcher’s lair, then you find that the food is delicious and the wine list is even better.
Aira- We don’t typically hit the finest dining spots, and so imagine our joy to learn what a gem Aira is! First off, the lighting in the room: it’s on the water, and you get magic sunlight even in the dead of winter. The food: it is fantastic! Delicate, interesting, nourishing, and just the right amount. The wine and service team are a delight, too. Treat yourself.
STAY:
Ett Hem- An entire home converted to a few ideal rooms, exceptionally outfitted. Enjoy the patio room for breakfast, the kitchen for dinner, and then relax in the living room after, mixing your own cocktails and reading old fashion magazines. Discreet chic done to perfection.
PLAY:
Samrui Thai Massage- May seem like a strange addition here, but some of the best massages we’ve ever had. We went twice in 2 days.
OSLO
EAT:
Arakataka- Fantastic Nordic Food, low-key, stylish room and excellent service.
Le Benjamin Wine Bar- This place. Love the vibe, the food, and the wine list. Sit at the bar and let the night slip along in a magical way.
ISTANBUL
EAT:
Zubeyir Ocakbasi- Get your grilled meats on here! Sit near the grill action, order all the sides and plenty of raki.
Imroz- Old-school seafood cafe with a very soulful vibe.
Balikci Sabahattin- We went here twice in 2 days. Insanely fantastic fish display with passionate service, spicy peppers in yogurt, and beautiful salads.
Karakoy Lokantasi- Very NYC-chic meze and raki restaurant- order everything and give yourself time to enjoy it all.
Hayvore- Very popular lokantasi, with a stunning array of dishes.
Durumzade- Made popular by Anthony Bourdain, and rightly so. Classic shish kebab.
Ozkanak Lokantasi- old school lokantasi, kaymak with honey and simit and chicken breast pudding with burnt bottom.
STAY:
Four Season Sultanahmet- Located in an old jail, it meets all your Four Seasons desires, but mostly it’s located in a central location to everything you want to see, and that’s always nice.
LECH
EAT:
Hus 8- Traditional stube serving hearty, straightforward food with a great atmosphere.
Bodenalpe- Extreme charm! Great food, cold beer, beautiful views. Win.
STAY:
Arlberg Hotel- We stayed here, fell in love with it, came back 3 weeks later, then swore ourselves to them for life. Their outdoor and indoor pools are soooo nice, the casual traditional restaurant (Die Stube) serves an entire menu of fondue (get the Asian and the schnitzel, side by side), and their bedding literally swallows you. J’adore.
PLAY:
Skyspace- James Turrell creates breathtaking structures in far flung locations (we last saw one in Tasmania) that are meant to frame the sky surrounded by changing colors. Trust us; it’s profound work. Open to all, free, only open at sunrise and sunset. Don’t miss it. Lots of great hikes in Lech, but we loved the one where you end up at Restaurant Seekopf overlooking a turquoise lake, eating smoked trout and drinking tall cold beers.
SALZBURG
EAT:
Marc’s- We were told that if we went here, it would be difficult to leave. We ended up later that night singing David Bowie and Freddie Mercury at the top of our lungs drinking very good schnapps with the one employee in the place. There’s one lady chef and one man doing all of the rest of the front of house work, including taking you to the cellar so you can pick what you want to drink. Great heart.
SLOVENIA (Luče, Vipava)
EAT/ STAY/ PLAY:
Hisa Raduha- (Luče) We drove to Slovenia just to stay here. High up in the mountains, surrounded by nature, excellent hikes with unbelievably idyllic huts to enjoy, and a personal jacuzzi in your room. The kids run the hotel and the service, the parents cook each morning and evening, and it was some of the best food we’ve had this year. Our jaws were on the floor with wonder and pure joy.
Majerija- (Vipava) This place is a bit of a dream; you come out of the mountains into the valley, through vineyards, and towards a single cluster of farm buildings surrounded by well-tended gardens and livestock. Here you dine on excellent local food alongside a great local wine list, served by a crew that cares about every wonderful detail. There are also guest rooms to rent.
ITALIAN ALPS (Dolomites)
EAT:
Alla Dama Bianca- Head to Trieste for excellent seafood right on the water. The ‘60’s feel alive here, with white washed walls, tan Europeans, and small dinghies bobbing in the little bay as you enjoy every single delicacy the sea has to offer.
Da Aurelio- The chef is the master of foraging mushrooms and herbs, and it shows in his delicate, honest cooking. It doesn’t hurt that the restaurant is smack dab in the middle of some of the most beautiful mountain pastures ever.
Rifugio Col Alt- This is less a hike to a hut and more like taking a lift to the hut, but that does not diminish the lovely food and very fun wine list.
STAY:
Rosa Alpina Hotel & Spa- Located in the Dolomites, the Italian part of the Alps, is this oasis. To be honest, you’re already in one of the most beautiful places on earth, and once you arrive to Rosa Alpina, they wrap you in the most complete hospitality you can imagine. Yoga room, cinema, excellent fine and casual dining, and a top notch spa. Talk to Hugo, the owner and operator, who will tell you exactly which hikes and huts to visit for the best experience.
La Subida- Run by the Sirk family in Friuli, this is the country home you’ve been dreaming of, replete with the father cooking, the mother and kids serving wine and food, the son making wine, and a brand new Libreria room tucked away on the hillside with 2 outdoor bathtubs overlooking a fern garden. Food, wine and service are second to none.
PLAY:
Scotoni Hutte- Hike here, taking either the more carefree road up, or over a steeper pass down into the valley where Scotoni is located. From there you can hike up another 30 minutes or so to a pristine lake. The food is hearty, the wine and beer are just what you need, and the energy of the place is thrilling. Also, there’s a very friendly cow in the pasture who loves her neck being scratched.
Utia de Bioch- The culture of hiking to a rifugio (or hutte) tucked above town, between Alpine valleys, was a new one to me, and I fell head over heels in love. Get the blood pumping, see the goal in the distance, earn your beer and your polenta with wild mushrooms, and then cruise back down after a relaxing lunch. What could be better? I know, a great wine list! And these guys have it.
SWITZERLAND (Kleine Scheidegg)
STAY:
Bellevue des Alpes- You must leave your car in the valley town below, and you’re taken by cog train up the mountains to the hotel, where there is nothing but the sounds of the cow bells and the train whistles. Extreme Alpine peaks surround you, glacial waterfalls, thunderous rock falls, simple food and a hotel stuck in the early 1900’s, decked out in all its antique glamour. What a treasure.
COSTA BRAVA
BOULDER
EAT:
Efrain's II Best Mexican this side of the border. Get the Costillas.
Basta Wood fire pizza with great sourdough.
PMG- Excellent food, super fun wine list and great people. Win-Win.
Arcana- Healthy food that doesn’t feel like its looking down its finger at you and a lovely wine list.
Mustard’s Last Stand- Hot dogs and no wine list.
BASALT
EAT:
El Korita If you happen to be driving between Boulder and Aspen, drop in here, order the Korita Tostada & a Michelada. Extreme spice & a lil refreshment to help you survive.
FLAGSTAFF
PLAY:
Take a drive to Canyon de Chelly, where you can rent a horse and take an afternoon ride to see the White House Ruin Trail.
BRITANNY
EAT:
Le Coquillage at Maisons de Bricourt- It doesn’t matter if you aren’t even in Brittany. Find an excuse to come here. The hotel and the surrounding grounds are charming as can be, but Le Coquillage, the restaurant, is one of our favorites in France, and the reason for the journey. This is make-you-cry food set in a breathtaking little room with chic af style right near the beach.
Comète- Another restaurant/hotel spot, albeit a much more low-key option with simple but very well done hospitality. Seasonal food, run by a couple who have clearly poured their heart into the business. Worth coming to feel the love if you happen to be in the area.
STAY:
Le Nessay Saint Briac- You can’t beat this location- a late 1800’s mansion built on the site of an old castle, with location-appropriate Western French ocean views and a stunning little beach scene.
GUADALAJARA
EAT:
Campomar- I wish this place existed in every neighborhood I will ever live in from today forward. The best atmosphere, highly energetic and happy, serving the best seafood options with intensely spicy condiments. YES, please.
Bruna- Get your nice clothes on and settle in for a long lunch tucked into dreamy, plant-filled shady nooks. The garden! The food! Excellent.
SUD TIROL
EAT:
Flurin (Glorenza)- Check this place out on a drive from one town to the next; stop in and be overjoyed to find a solid menu and some exciting low-intervention wines served with a boatload of love. They also have rooms.
Meteo (Merano)- Don’t be put off by the strange website- go here! The views above the banks of the roaring river, the quirky and awesome service, the great food, and the wine cave that you MUST ask to see.
1477 Reichhalter (Merano)- We went three days in a row. Superb. Next time we go back to make hot sauce in the area, we are going to stay in the rooms and make real good friends with the entire crew. We are going to insist upon ourselves.
LUCCA
EAT:
Cantine Bernardini- Lovely location, tasty food, warm service, fun wine, and a sexy little bar.
Antica Locanda di Sesto- This place is legit. Drive outside the city walls and find yourself in what feels like lifetimes ago in a rural country setting with seriously good food. Do not miss it.
Momo Gelati- Owned by the same family as Cantine Bernardini, this place is outrageously delicious. I learned about whipped cream served on your sour cherry gelato here, and I suggest you do the same.
Giglio- I’m sure it’s nice for dinner, too, but my god what a lunch location. Sit on the plaza overlooking lazy and lovely Lucca rolling by, drinking from a great wine list and being pleasantly surprised by every course.
(go here if you are near) BARI
EAT:
Pietro Zito (Montegrosso)- It’s not near Bari. But if you are flying in and out of Bari and you’ve got time to trek to find outstanding food, ambiance and energy, go here. Insanely good food, and a helluva a way to spend an afternoon.
PUGLIA
EAT:
Taverna del Porto (Tricase)- We love this place. The red and purple shrimp are the stuff dreams are made of. They are what every ama ebi wishes it was. Set right on the beach, we went here 3 times in the same amount of days, and would do it again.
Il Bastione (Gallipoli)- Classic Puglian seafood, done in a perfect outdoor setting. After you eat, you can dip right in the water from the rocks.
Ristorante Lilith (Lecce)- A country home that opens its doors and dreamy patio area to those who’ve come to eat their excellent homemade food. A hidden gem.
Da Tuccino (Polignano a Mare)- Go here on a Sunday and watch the parade roll by. The outfits, the attitudes, the rousing letting-loose of a busy and excellent seafood spot, right across from the ocean. Special.
STAY:
Palazzo Daniele- This place is located at the very tip of the heel, far away from literally everything else. But there’s a room with a shower that falls from the ceiling like an art installation (look it up online), the entire place is ultra chic, and the cooking is wonderful.
Masseria Torre Maizza- Private beach, awesome pool, beautiful rooms and cinema-worthy grounds. Very nice.
SICILY
EAT:
Osteria Antica Marina (Catania)- A seafood lover’s paradise, set right on the rim of the Catania fish market. Come hit both! They are both worth the drive into Catania if you’re staying elsewhere.
Cave Ox (North)- This is a darling in the wine scene, as well it should be. A superb wine list, warm and generous service, and easy going, delicious food. Go when it’s warm and enjoy the patio.
Ristorante da Nino (Letojanni)- Take a drive to this little town and enjoy a nice lunch on the ocean. Pretty ideal, if you ask me.
PUERTO VALLARTA
EAT:
El Dorado- This is the beach restaurant you want. Book a table and a few chairs on the beach after. Drink all of the tequila, and accept the beach massage when it comes your way.
Joe Jacks Fish Shack- Our favorite place to eat in PV. The food is great, the vibe is ultra sweet and we love the humans running the place.
Pancho’s Tacos- THE taco joint. There’s always a line, so get there early and post up.
One and Only Mandarina- The most impressive place we’ve ever stayed. The location, the views, the team making it all run smoothly, and the food! Usually hotel/ resort dining is less than inspiring, but you’ve got Enrique Olivera running point here, and the food is light, clean and very pretty. Book a treehouse room!
PLAY:
Vallarta Botanical Gardens- It’s a bit of a drive, but do it anyway. It’s completely worth it.
SCOTLAND
The Fife Arms - Everything you’d want in a winter Scottish getaway: fireplace in your room, cask ales and an insane Whisky room, excellent pub food and you can even book a day to spend with raptors (Eagles! Falcons! Owls!)
MARRAKECH
PLAY:
Jardin Majorelle (Maison de Saint Laurent) - Go visit the grounds for the cactus garden alone. My goodness!
STAY:
El Fenn - You’ve most likely seen photos of this place on Instagram, but lemme tell you, it’s even better in real life. And the rooms! We had a stitched leather floor. The rooftop pool is a treat after kicking around the city all day.
ANTWERP
EAT:
Graanmarkt 13 - Excellent vegetable-forward cooking with a fun wine list and a chic as can be crowd.
Bun - We go here every time we are in Antwerp; refined Vietnamese food in a super fun atmosphere and loving service. Order everything.
STAY:
Hotel Flora - A very old collection of houses converted into the sweetest hotel with the most personal service. Stylish rooms with a playful personal touch, quiet, private and right in the middle of town.
GREEK ISLANDS
EAT:
Noemia (Mykonos) - Upscale, chic, with very good food. On a party-heavy island in a country where there’s tons of very good (similar) food, this is a stand-out.
Spilia (Mykonos) - The best lunch location on earth. Food? Good! Fun? Out of this world. And when you get overheated from wine or dancing, jump in the ocean, it’s right there. If you’re fancy or have fancy friends, take a boat to the restaurant and bask in the magic.
Beach House (Antiparos) - On what we consider one of the best islands anywhere, at Beach House, you have excellent food situated in the perfect little cove, with beach chairs for you to nap in once you’re sated.
Pipino’s (Antiparos) - Top notch, fresh-as-can-be seafood overlooking the ocean.
Sapou (Antiparos) - Great innovative Greek food, and so many good things to drink. Komos!!
Tamam (Crete) - Old school, soulful Cretan food served down an alley. We ate lunch and went back from dinner, ordering the same thing. Meat Pie.
STAY:
Ambassador’s Residence (Crete) - Overlooking the harbor, lovely service and perfect location. Book the Wooden Room.
Minos Beach Art Hotel (Crete) - A sprawling resort with truly great food, unbeatable seaside hangouts and lovely rooms.
LISBON
EAT:
Cervejaria Ramiro - Go here for all the seafood glory. Bright lighting, loud, messy (use your hammer to get at your crab meat) super delicious and fun. Get the cold and warm crabs. You might wait for a table, but they have a little bar where you can grab a beer alongside the restaurant, so stop stressing.
O Velho Eurico - Very good food in a raucous atmosphere with lots of other people also trying to get a table. Make a reservation request through IG DMs, otherwise you're not getting in, I'd reckon.
Pateo 13 - Super casual outdoor patio spot run by a family. Everything off a simple grill. The sardines are awesome.
Solar dos Presuntos - Owned by the same family forever, lots of futbol stars, packed house, great old school food with tableside service. Quite the scene.
Copa Lisboa - A nice cocktail bar with very very good food. Great for a midday snack.
Restaurante d'Adraga - If you’re driving from Lisbon north past Sintra (we didn't go, but heard it's awesome) this place is worth it. The seafood was lovely and clean, you're in this chill beach shack in view of the ocean, and you're in prime Colares country, read: salty, minerally Malvasia, which pairs perfectly with seafood.
PORTO
EAT:
A Cozinha do Manel - We were there on Sunday, where they roast a baby lamb. They only grill one, so get there early if you want it. Best we've ever had: truly awesome. Great service, space is packed with families in nice church outfits, and the food is bananas. Classy as. Hands down our favorite meal in Portugal.
MÁLAGA
EAT:
Figón de Juan - Figón means cheap or inexpensive, which the food here is, actually. But the special thing about this place is the care that is taken by Juan and his team. It makes the entire experience feel like fine dining, although you’re in a casual atmosphere. The food is truly nourishing, on a deep level. We went back multiple times in 1 week.
La Cosmopolita - Casual atmosphere but elegant dining, and very tasty food. Yes, the seafood you’d expect, but also one of the most rib-sticking beans-n-meat stews I’ve ever had. Ugly as sin, but so so soulful.
El Pimpi - An institution in Malaga, a bustling winery that now plays host to multiple rooms of locals and tourists alike. The food is traditional and good, but the vibe and the crowd watching are even better.
Chiringuito Tropicana - Chiringuitos are these little seafood bar/ restaurants joints lining the beaches in Malaga, and while I’m guessing they are all fairly similar: fish grilling outside, crisp white wine, outdoor seating (in winter!), this place was opposite our hotel, and we loved it.
Anyway Wine Bar - The concierge suggested this place, and while we balked at a wine bar (I don’t know how many more ‘shared plate’ concepts I can take), this place was legit. Very caring, attentive, thoughtful service, a great list of wines, and truly yummy food. Order the goat.
Los Marinos Jose (between Malaga and Marbella) - This was suggested by many people we trust implicitly, but they were on holiday when we were there. Can’t wait to go back.
GALICIA
EAT:
d'Berto - The mecca for Galician shellfish with a thrilling wine list (aged Albariño!) Family-run with love and care.
PLAY:
Fragas do Eume National Park - Drive through!!! It was dreamy. Such a nice break from the same travel stuff. Really quiet, still, dreamy. Old growth forest, not a lot of people around, heaven. Simply driving through is a mental re-set.
Drive by San Andres de Teixido. It's a teeny town with a spectacular view of the Galician cliffs.
SANTANDER
EAT:
Bodega Cigalena - We didn't get to go to Vino Vintage, as it was closed, but Cigalena was a great lunch spot. The vibe is classic verrrry old, dusty, wine-romance Spanish. Great food and fun wine.
ASTURIAS
EAT:
Gueyu Mar - This place is in the middle of nowhere, and awesome. Tons of La Bota by the glass. The sardines are perfectly lightly grilled. All fish, and especially the tuna collar were excellent. Get some of their berberechos conservas to take with you.
KOH LANTA
STAY:
Pimalai- Take a boat to your new island home! Or at least that’s what we did, and we suggest you arrive in the same fashion. It takes a moment to get here, but you are rewarded with a serene, quiet beach, and a jungle that’s teeming with wildlife (flying squirrels, bats, monitor lizards, monkeys!) You can book a boat to pick you up from the beach for a 45 minute ride to some of the best diving we’ve ever done: extremely clear water packed with rad sea creatures. And the food! Sometimes resorts can feel limited; not the case here. Excellent Thai food, warm service, heaven.
BANGKOK
EAT:
Here Hai - One night we were eating dinner and heard en ex-pat across the room exclaiming loudly about the best crab restaurant in Bangkok. Richard walked over to him and asked about it, and Here Hai is it. We didn’t get a chance to go, but if you do, please let us know.
Ginza Sushi Ichi - Tucked away in what feels like a forgotten corner of a mall, duck behind the wall and settle in for excellent sushi. Very chill service and no hint of the holier-than-thou vibe some omakase meals can have.
Gedhawa - Northern Isaan cuisine: think meats, lots of fresh herbs, heartier fare than the typical seafood-based cuisine you’ll find in the south. Very casual atmosphere, beer, tasty food that feels like it’s been prepared with love.
Sri Trat - Eastern Trat cuisine, on the border of Cambodia. A chic little spot with very very good cocktails that pair surprisingly well with the food. Excellent.
Sanguan Sri - Found this place online and we loved it. Feels like a cafeteria, all local day workers, small, simple plates and very good food. Soulful.
Nakorn Phochana- Excellent Chinese food in a no-frills restaurant where everyone is reaching over each other, boiling their own noodles or meats, laughing, eating well. The sour pork soup will heal you when you’re feeling lowly.
Jhol- Coastal Indian food! Not specific to any region, specific only to the coasts. The Indian food in Bangkok is the best we’ve ever had, and this was one of our favorites.
Adhoc- We generally steer clear of highly tweezered food, and if we stuck to that limiting guideline we might have missed this singular gem of a restaurant. The food has so much deep soul and layered complex flavors. They have a small kitchen helmed by a young female chef, blowing all pretense and preciousness out of the water, serving incredibly good food.
Gaa- Located in a beautiful old Thai house with chic design and a powerhouse of a female chef cooking some of the most playful, nuanced, light-yet-incredibly-detailed flavors you can imagine. Richard cried it was so moving. Good restaurants are so special!
Rongsi Phochana- This appears to be an almost generic-looking restaurant in a walking mall, but look closer at how packed it is daily with local Thai diners, and once you sit down and eat you’ll understand why. Delicious classics in a relaxed environment.
Aksorn- I first learned about David Thompson from his seminal cookbook, Thai Food: it’s the English-language history cum cookbook you need if you want to understand Thai food. Many of the ingredients are hard to find outside of Thailand, but you can visit Aksorn and enjoy it all. The menu is a love letter to 1950’s Thai food, and the restaurant is on the roof of the building in which it’s located, making it a great option when you’d like a break from the clanging street food scene.
Chop Chop Cook Shop- David Thompson’s casual 1930’s era Chinese diner (located in Chinatown) showcases what Chinese food in Thailand looked like at that time. High brow food in a super chill, stylish space, with very caring service from people who clearly love food.
Din Tai Fung (Central Embassy Branch)- There are multiple branches of Din Tai Fung scattered across the planet and multiple locations in the massive malls of Bangkok. But Central Embassy is our favorite; we like the cooking the best and the views from the massive windows down to the hustle of the streets is rad. Bring friends, order some tea and watermelon juice and order everything.
Appia- Sometimes when you’re in Bangkok you want Italian comfort food, and that’s when Appia makes your dreams come true. The crew working there is filled with light and kindness and the food is truly tasty.
Paste- Tucked into a corner of yet another large Bangkok mall, Paste feels a bit like it might be stuck in another time, slightly dated decor and soaring design pieces hung from the ceiling. And the food can even feel a little dated in its plating, but look past all that and enjoy how truly delicious it is! Proper cooking in a funny location with a nice view over yet another mall. Sign me up.
Samrub Samrub Thai- You’re going to need to book this one a long time in advance. It’s wholly worth it. Inspired, wild, outside of the lines cooking with a renegade team and a chef that likes to chill and have a beverage with you. It’s awesome.
PLAY:
Canal Cruise- Ask your hotel which take-off jetty you should use. Request a cruise through the canals, kick back and enjoy the water monitors swimming past you, the occasional kingfisher flying by, and if you have the opportunity to buy some hot dog buns from someone along the way, toss them into the very dirty canal and see the brown water come to life with fish. We love it! Not to mention the Buddha statues, the Thai river houses and other colorful river taxis jetting by.
Dream House Thai Massage- There are PLENTY of Thai massage spots, and while this one looks like you might be heading down a random parking lane, keep walking to find a low key but excellent Thai massage house. Some of the strongest hands doing caring, slow, deep work. Highly recommended.
STAY:
Mandarin Oriental - One of our favorite hotel experiences ever. This is the original Mandarin Oriental, and it still feels like I imagine it felt almost 150 years ago. Classy as can be, incredible food, views from your room overlooking the bustling river scene, a world-class spa featuring massive private rooms and 2-masseuse massages (swoon), one of the World’s 50 Best bars, and the most endearing service. Oh, and the royal family was there twice in the 4 nights we were there. My only note to you is this: when the King is in the hotel, the red carpet is not for you. I made that mistake.
Sindhorn Kempinski- We lived here for 3 months. We loved it a LOT. It offers all of the creature comforts one might want in the middle of a city that is mostly sweaty and loud. The hotel lobby hosts daily high tea and at night there’s jazz in their classy cocktail joint, the Firefly Bar. The gym is way better than it needs to be, there’s a full roster of classes in the fitness area, it’s located right across a peaceful tropical garden from a great grocery store and multiple lovely little restaurants. It’s centrally located, but keep in mind that traffic in Bangkok is some of the worst in the world, so you’re going to be spending 30 minutes at any given time to get to dinner anywhere.
IBIZA
EAT:
S’Espartar- Not on the beach, not a spot where the fashion crew will head. All the better for it. The food! The Bullit de Peix followed by the arroz a banda should be your order.
Cami de Baláfia- In Richard’s words: Everything off the grill and the best alioli I’ve ever had in my life. (He came home very excited about it.)
MALLORCA
EAT:
El Camino- A ‘fashion’ restaurant aka good-looking environs, filled with tourists, lovely service and delicious classic Spanish tapas.
Sa Roqueta- Not ‘fashion’ at all, mostly local people who seem to know the owner and have what invariably turn into long lunches with lots of laughing. Seafood is the thing, and their paella rice is thin (as it should be) and very tasty. Desserts are also great.
Ca Na Toneta- A bit removed from Palma, but worth the jaunt out of town. Chic and chill, with lovely food and a charming terrace.
Ses Coves- A bit out of Palma; go for lunch and enjoy the view over the valley. It’s all about the grill and what it offers seafood, meat, vegetables.
La Tabernita Desde 1992- We love this place! Situated in what appears to be an industrial area, this gem is worth venturing out of busy Palma. Truly the best grilled beef we’ve ever had, anywhere. And if steak doesn’t do it for you, everything else on the menu will. Run by a husband and wife team, open for lunch only M-F.
Meson El Rincón de Cai- Locals only here, with easy-going Spanish food done well.
DINS Santa Tauri- Fine Mallorquín dining.
Little Jarana- This places feels like you could easily drop it down in New York and it would be an immediate hit: great food, fun wine and a playful attitude.
Guethary- From the same family that has blessed us with Elkano on mainland Spain, this is a shrine to Mallorca’s best ingredients in a very calm space on a farflung beachy strip slightly outside Palma. Make the trip.
STAY:
Es Raco d’Arta- Located on the Eastern part of the island, this is a safe haven from the loud party tourists and kids that you’ll find flooding the beaches. Excellent food and stylish white-linen vibes tucked in a sweet little pocket of mountains.
Hotel Can Bordoy- Located in Palma, the Can Bordoy manages to feel a world apart with its calm interior garden and quiet, high-ceilinged rooms with plush interiors.
PLAY:
Use this hiking app to find a trail near Port de Sóller, then drop down the port or beach to have lunch at Patiki Beach or Blai Bar.
Rent a dayboat (either motor or sailboat) from Sóller Charter Experience.
TOKYO
EAT:
Yakitori Imai- Fine dining-style yakitori. Low lighting, sleek bar, and a quiet open kitchen rather than bellying up to a raucous dive-bar-feeling hole in the wall (also great.)
Yakitori Toriyoshi Ginza- Non-descript, non-fancy, great little yakitori bar. Get the grilled potatoes.
Odajima- We found this place while searching for great wine lists online. Run by the son of the founder, it feels more like a living room than a restaurant. Extremely low-key, with great wines paired by the son, who is also the only chef. We had a fantastic meal with him and met him the following day for a stellar sushi breakfast at Tsukiji Sushi Say Honten.
Tsukiji Sushi Say Honten- Get there before they open (yes, in the morning) and stand in line with everyone else. Let them choose for you. Have everything. The freshest, most eclectic, pristine sushi we’ve ever had. This is the opposite of Sushi Hoseki in the Bulgari hotel- this is for locals and people unafraid to learn new flavors.
Sushi Hoseki- Located in the Bulgari hotel and seemingly designed for well-to-do tourists, the sushi is excellent and catered to more familiar cuts of fish that international guests will recognize.
Sushi Bar Kakizaki- Unassuming, quiet, personal, excellent.
Sushi Isano- The sushi is excellent as is the rest of the omakase. The room is dashing, with a magical Japanese garden as the backdrop.
Butagumi- Juicy, fatty tonkatsu in all its glory.
Tempura Yamanoue- Located in a corner of a mall, this location is larger than a typical tempura bar with table seating as well, and a very distinct flavor to its oil which we came to love. In spring their mountain vegetables are thrilling.
Tempura Iwai- A serious, reverent, fantastic tempura bar.
Tenichi Ginza Main Store- A straightforward tempura bar in a modern room. While tasty, you want to go here primarily for the wine list.
Eureka! Sake Bar- A wild, almost ‘natural’ selection of sakes which the impassioned femal crew will happily discuss with you. They’ll even tell you exactly which sake to pair with each dish from a funky, delicious bar menu.
Nodaiwa Azabu Ikura Honten- This place was founded at the end of the Edo period (1603-1867) and has been run by the same family for 5 generations. We went to many unagi restaurants, and this place takes the eel cake without any argument. They also have a sister location in Paris which we beeline for as soon as we arrive in town. Order as soon as you sit down (it takes ~40 minutes to grill the eel) and enjoy sake and snacks as you wait.
A16- The original A16 is in San Francisco and is an SF classic. This location has even better pizza and is a welcome nook when you’re wandering through Ginza.
Savoy Kaminarimon- There are a few locations, this is our favorite, and our choice for best pizza in Tokyo. Extremely moist dough gives over to thin, very crispy pizza. Watch them hand-slice the garlic, toss the pie into the over for a moment, and then drench it in olive oil. Richard had tears in his eyes, that’s no joke.
Bramasole- The Japanese do Italian food better than most Italians in our opinion. Here the focus is the perfect pastas.
Spago- Unrelated to the Bevery Hills location, completely Japanese. The same guy has been here for years, serving up Barilla pasta with mainly Japanese toppings, this is incredibly fun, yummy comfort food.
Hakata Tanakada- Sexy as can be, high-end izakaya with a deep wine list and fabulous food.
French Monstar- The owner sells wine from his own well-aged cellar, paired with French food. The cozy space feels like you’ve been invited in to someone’s living room. Cute!
Namikibashi Nakamura Honten- A swanky joint serving an omakase with an array of Japanese treats.
PLAY:
Ekibenya Matsuri Gransta- Arrive to the train station early to have enough time to walk through this hall where many hundreds of bento boxes await your perusal.
Jus de Peche- A sharp, classy, discreet bar. You kinda have to search for it, and when you’re there it feels like they’re most happy with only a few seats filled at the bar. They have a big bowl of vegetables and fruit on the bar, which they juice fresh for cocktails. Their Bloody Mary (made with the world’s most perfect Japanese tomatoes) is nothing short of a revelation. There’s a very special little secret restaurant through the bar’s back door, helmed by the head bartender’s wife. The room is elegant, and her food is delightful.
Nihombashi Takashimaya- Originally opened in 1933, this old school department store in Ginza is home to one of the most inspiring grocery stores. There’s a gift-giving fruit stand where high-end fruit is expertly wrapped, a mini Meidi-Ya (Tokyo’s high-end grocery store), and a wine shop, all situated among aisles of sweets, meats, vegetables and any other take-away Japanese treat you can imagine.
Fumigrafico Bakery- An excellent bakery with a wide array of baked goods.